Transmission/Turbo/New Guy Questions

swartb2 · Dec 8, 2015

I sincerely apologize if this sort of thing has been posted before, I've not had my 6.7 very long, but would like to know some more about it before pulling the trigger on any major modifications, meaning, I want to make sure it will hold together if I add some things here and there.

So to start- I'm new here and have a fully ******d and tuned 2012, I'm looking into doing a compound turbo kit from someone, yet undecided, and I am wondering if I should go ahead and upgrade the trans or TC beforehand, and how are they about the head bolts (do they need studded)? My biggest fear is that I give up reliability for a little more umph behind it. I've seen that suncoast and revmax make performance rebuild kits, but I can't find any reviews. And if I am okay to go ahead with the turbos, do I need a fueling upgrade like the kit that confederate has with all the parts? Or might I be better off with a big single. I plan on driving from Ohio to Texas over the summer and want to make sure it's still fully reliable and won't blow up on the fiancé and I. Thanks for any help guys!

Notneb · Dec 8, 2015

If you put compounds on it, you'll need to worry about rods LONG before you ever have to worry about trans and head studs...

50_shooter · Dec 8, 2015

How much power do you want? You have to upgrade the hpfp to get much over 525. Some guys are getting by with stock trans, but mine had burnt clutches before dlt. If you beat on it I'd figure on a trans. I don't think head studs are an issue at 600 horse. I wouldn't consider compounds unless you put rods in it. You are looking at quite an investment no matter what if you want over 650.

swartb2 · Dec 8, 2015

I figured I'd end up putting rods in it, but what rods and what trans are my best bet? I'd like to get it set to hold up before I add any more power, obviously, I'd probably like to stay around 500-550. Would I be better off with a good single turbo kit? Like from H&S or someone like that? Not much more than that, but I'd like to get there without some huge tune. I wasn't sure if confederates shift kit was any count or not, that's why I was kinda looking for some sound advice from some more tenured folk. Lol

UNBROKEN · Dec 8, 2015

Only 5-550?
2015 turbo and pump and a tune and you're there plus some.
Simple is better.

swartb2 · Dec 8, 2015

Well, I guess I'd be more like 600 as a rounded number. I'm just trying to really get some ideas of what things should come first. It may go up later, but that's to be discovered. I'm sure everyone knows how upgrade addictions can get. Haha

sootie · Dec 8, 2015

firstly, remove confederate from your vocabulary.

Secondly, a 2015 hpfp and a modified 15 turbo will put you at 600. your trans will live for a bit with good tuning and you wont need head studs. all you will need is a cold air intake.

if you want more than that, add dual fuelers and said turbo above and you will be at 650. Start thinking about a trans at that point.

THere is no need for compounds when 750+ has been done on a modified stock charger.

All items i mentioned can be purchases thru Morgan @ Midwest Diesel & Auto.

HS-MotorsportsDallas · Dec 8, 2015

swartb2 said:
I figured I'd end up putting rods in it, but what rods and what trans are my best bet? I'd like to get it set to hold up before I add any more power, obviously, I'd probably like to stay around 500-550. Would I be better off with a good single turbo kit? Like from H&S or someone like that? Not much more than that, but I'd like to get there without some huge tune. I wasn't sure if confederates shift kit was any count or not, that's why I was kinda looking for some sound advice from some more tenured folk. Lol

You could always do our new divided turbo kit and stick with stock fueling. Running stock fuel with a 64 or 66 will put you in the high 500's easily. Throw a dual fueler on in the future and you could see mid to high 600's even low 700's. If you want even more power, you could do the 69mm. That will get you well over 700 with a dual fueler and stock injectors. Build the motor and put some mild injectors in it and it gets up around the 800 hp range.

The kit is very expandable for sure.

swartb2 · Dec 8, 2015

Thanks guys, like I said, Im pretty new to the 6.7 game, I'm glad some people can help me out with some of these things, dealt with cummins and 6.0s, 7.3s, etc. and just not used to the stock power that it has.

swartb2 · Dec 8, 2015

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
You could always do our new divided turbo kit and stick with stock fueling. Running stock fuel with a 64 or 66 will put you in the high 500's easily. Throw a dual fueler on in the future and you could see mid to high 600's even low 700's. If you want even more power, you could do the 69mm. That will get you well over 700 with a dual fueler and stock injectors. Build the motor and put some mild injectors in it and it gets up around the 800 hp range.

The kit is very expandable for sure.

So I'll still need a trans and push rods, right?

sootie · Dec 8, 2015

swartb2 said:
So I'll still need a trans and push rods, right?

push rods? nope.

UNBROKEN · Dec 8, 2015

Let's make it simple.
Under 600 you don't need any internals or a trans as long as you treat it right.
650 you should be thinking about internal upgrades and driving with a light foot.
Over 650.... you better build a good short block with rods and get a good trans.

HS-MotorsportsDallas · Dec 8, 2015

You definitely don't need push rods.

We have a lot of customers that are on stock transmissions at the 650 hp range without issues but nothing is guaranteed. There are some great transmission builders on this forum that could get you fixed up if you want to go that route.

HS-MotorsportsDallas · Dec 8, 2015

UNBROKEN said:
Let's make it simple.
Under 600 you don't need any internals or a trans as long as you treat it right.
650 you should be thinking about internal upgrades and driving with a light foot.
Over 650.... you better build a good short block with rods and get a good trans.

I think with tuning where it is today, you could easily bump those numbers up by 50-100 hp. That's our experience with our parts and calibrations at least.

50_shooter · Dec 8, 2015

Connecting rods between pistons and crank

UNBROKEN · Dec 8, 2015

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
I think with tuning where it is today, you could easily bump those numbers up by 50-100 hp. That's our experience with our parts and calibrations at least.

I like to build "kid with a lead foot" safety margins in. LOL

HS-MotorsportsDallas · Dec 8, 2015

UNBROKEN said:
I like to build "kid with a lead foot" safety margins in. LOL

Apparently, you haven't seen Zane, Bentley or myself drive.....

Actually, if you want to see someone use their truck, check out Jon Cain. That guy likes to party! :bowfast:

I'm just giving you heck. Safety margins are good for sure but tuning has really helped those margins rise over the last few years. Remember how sketched out everyone was when these first came out? Guys were having problems left and right in the tuning infancy days.

jcain · Dec 8, 2015

I resemble that remark...

swartb2 · Dec 9, 2015

I'm not really much of a heavy foot, at least not to my knowledge. Parts aren't cheap, so I tend to baby things considering I drove it like a grandpa until I paid it off. Lol so it sounds like I should be fine as long as I have someone who can write a good tune and continue driving with some sense. (And when you said rods I just assumed push rods, that was my mistake.)