Very Stubborn Up Pipe

wetnsloppy4x

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Any tips for getting a stubborn solid up pipe to seal? I have a Liberator pipe with the flex joint on the drivers side and solid on the passenger. I am having a hell of a time getting the passenger side to seal up all the way. Everywhere else is good.

I've taken it loose in just about every combination possible, including loosening up the turbo to pedistal trying to get it to seal up but it will still leak at the same spot every time. The leak shoots right at the back corner of the head. To me it looks like the pipe is simply not bent quite right. The pipe seems to be kicked back a little to much toward the downpipe. The fact that it was rubbing on the down pipe (untill I slightly dimpled the DP) tends to enforce this theory with me. The stock pipe never rubbed (or leaked) at all. If it weren't for the fact that the stocker has 100k on the flex joints, I'd cut the scoop out and put that one back on.:cursing:

Any tips from those who have managed to get a solid pipe to seal would be greatly appreciated.








On a happier note, the GoGo intake and Powermax seem to get along great. Despite the leak and no tuning changes, power is much improved. EGTs are a little up with the drive presure leak though.
 

Powerstroked162

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Take the pipes off, place in round trash receptacle, buy up-pipes from MPD lol


Have you tried bolting the pipes together from the turbo down to the manifolds? Sometimes they are a pain if they aren't a perfect fit.
 

wetnsloppy4x

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Believe me. I'm about ready to put them in the round file. I am dissapointed in these POS pipes to say the least. I thought I knew what I was getting into. I thought I'd read every up pipe discussion out there and was getting decent quality.

Getting it snug at the turbo and then moving to the passenger side pipe and getting that side cinched down is how I've had the closest thing to a seal. That's the best it's been but it's still far from perfect.

My order of install goes, snug at turbo, wiggle around pass. side till it looks good, cinch it down. Move to the drivers side and cinch it down. Go up and cinch down the turbo, then cinch down turbo to pedistal.

The drivers side pipe looks to be a degree or two off, bendwise. The only reason I bought these things was because it was an easy way to get rid of the scoop and high mileage flex joints. This being my first go round with 6.0 up pipes, I'm a little suprised at the leakage a seemingly minor amount of misalignment can cause.
 

kyle43335

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Believe me. I'm about ready to put them in the round file. I am dissapointed in these POS pipes to say the least. I thought I knew what I was getting into. I thought I'd read every up pipe discussion out there and was getting decent quality.

Getting it snug at the turbo and then moving to the passenger side pipe and getting that side cinched down is how I've had the closest thing to a seal. That's the best it's been but it's still far from perfect.

My order of install goes, snug at turbo, wiggle around pass. side till it looks good, cinch it down. Move to the drivers side and cinch it down. Go up and cinch down the turbo, then cinch down turbo to pedistal.

The drivers side pipe looks to be a degree or two off, bendwise. The only reason I bought these things was because it was an easy way to get rid of the scoop and high mileage flex joints. This being my first go round with 6.0 up pipes, I'm a little suprised at the leakage a seemingly minor amount of misalignment can cause.



if you can measure it? the pass side should be 15 degrees..

by the way you said it hits the dp,and blows on the head. id have to say that 15 degrees is prolly around 18-19

the drivers side i dont believe liberator modifies that,the pass side pipe is also to short,clocking the y pipe counterclockwise to far.
 
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wetnsloppy4x

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if you can measure it? the pass side should be 15 degrees..

by the way you said it hits the dp,and blows on the head. id have to say that 15 degrees is prolly around 18-19

the drivers side i dont believe liberator modifies that,the pass side pipe is also to short,clocking the y pipe counterclockwise to far.
Do you mean measure the straight section of pipe in relation to the back of the engine? Or do you mean measure the bend on that side while it's off the truck?

kyle, you have it pictured right. It looks like the pass side pipe has an extra degree or two of bend in it.

As far as the driver side goes, they change the flex joint. With the pass side down on the manifold, the driver side comes up about an 1/8" short but the flex joint has enough give to get it sealed. I know, far from ideal.
 

kyle43335

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Do you mean measure the straight section of pipe in relation to the back of the engine? Or do you mean measure the bend on that side while it's off the truck?

kyle, you have it pictured right. It looks like the pass side pipe has an extra degree or two of bend in it.

As far as the driver side goes, they change the flex joint. With the pass side down on the manifold, the driver side comes up about an 1/8" short but the flex joint has enough give to get it sealed. I know, far from ideal.

follow the straight section up to the bend,on the pass side.

the bend you will run into should be 15 degrees.
 
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