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Message: [QUOTE="Charles, post: 985776, member: 103"] Mercon stuff, black... Amsoil stuff, black... Valvoline, dark brown... lol. Haven't checked since adding another cooler on the valvoline. I'm actually trying to work a deal where I don't have to pull hay anymore. Short-tripping the truck with equipment deliveries it never gets hot. It's only long interstate pulls that kill stuff in my experience. Fwiw, my 4R at at least 100 additional horsepower (applied) never got hot. The truck ran a steady state boost of ~40 to 50, peak of ~70 and consumed over 15 [i]gallons[/i] of water through the water injection system though. Rear diff didn't fare so well, but 4R gave not a single damn. That was pretty much when I gave up on the ZF. To the OP, cut out your floor, swap out your bellhousing dowel pins (they're too long, will hit on pass side strength rib of the trans), grab a flywheel and clutch (get ready for sticker shock if you want to hold power and go name brand), swap to a manual trans harness, grab clutch pedal, clutch safety switch, P/N plug (little plastic dongle), pos plastic hydro assembly, gear stick and bellows, might need to swap brake pedal too for clearance, grab a manual PCM, get a manual T-case or swap input shafts. That's all I can think of. Tip: Notice the hole in the back web of the block in the valley. This dumps out just [i]inside[/i] the bellhousing and will kill your new clutch the first time you have any leak in the valley, which for a 7.3 is pretty much inevitable. I stick a 90* fitting in this hole, trim the little sheetmetal spacer plate to clear it and if you look at the bottom of the block near the panrail on the starter side you will see another little hole leaving this area. Route the hose there. Then when you pop an o-ring, vibralock on the fuel bowl or anything else you won't kill your clutch. It will just pour out next to the starter. Good luck. [/QUOTE]