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Message: [QUOTE="Charles, post: 53965, member: 103"] Exactly what Bo at Scheid told me to run years back. Napa water soluble cutting and grinding oil. [IMG]http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/47168/2813501350082519711S600x600Q85.jpg[/IMG] After seeing an engine taken apart after running straight water, and seeing the rust on the piston walls and head ports and then after having my own engine develop larger amounts of blowby over the course of a year or so, and then after adding the oil watching as that blowby went right back down to normal again I would never suggest running pure water through an engine without a lubricant. You're steam cleaning the engine, but then when it shuts off it sits there with droplets on everything. Even with my turbo-temp monitor running the truck at each shut down it still didn't seem to be enough to keep the condensate under control. I bought like 3 bottles oh so many years ago and have yet to burn through the second one. The ratio required is tiny. With the water running into the tank I just pour a little into the stream. If it turns the water white, it's enough in my experience. Which doesn't take much at all, and shouldn't have any measurable effect on flammability. Another important point mentioned by a few already... do NOT operate a system without a shut off solenoid between the tank and engine. Even if you don't have any hydrolocking issues, the water WILL be running into the ports and causing issues inside the engine just sitting there all night long each day. Rust rings in the cylinders where pistons spent the night with a tiny bit of water on them is not uncommon. In fact, it's pretty much par for the course with no shut off solenoid. Even if the tank is well below the nozzles. Still lets water dribble. Don't do it. The extreme end of the spectrum is pure hydrolocking and a bent rod on startup. Fwiw, I would never suggest purposefully introducing a flammable liquid of substantial quantity into the intake track of a compression ignition engine where it cannot be timed except by it's own auotignition point vs the pressure/temp in the cylinder approaching TDC as is the case when injecting methanol into the intake of a diesel engine. Btw.... glad I'm not the only one that noticed that the coolingmist guy can be a COMPLETE dick... I tried numerous times over the course of a couple years to buy various things from him and each time ended up ending the call without buying a thing just because he was such a dickhead. Luckily at some point I ended up getting past that and now have some good nozzles from them. Although I'm not sure it wasn't someone else I talked to the last time. And he has no clue when it comes to the effects of a flammable liquid on a diesel engine. As many engines as I have listened to rattling their brains out with too much meth, and as many as have pushed rods through the side and blown gaskets to hell, that man is of the mindset that additional methanol does NOT negatively effect in-cylinder pressures. He quoted a scientific journal article as the basis for his feelings but would not hear me out to describe to him how the article he was citing was being mis-applied here. Nor did he want to hear of cylinder pressure testing results, blown gaskets or rodded blocks. This conversation was spurred in the process of his basically telling me what a moron I was for running boost only control, even after I told him of actual examples of trucks running EGT based control that had injected at improper times (due to high egt but low rpm/boost) and rattled and knocked so bad that one actually broke the input shaft just lugging along when the stupid ass controller started dumping water into the engine... Anyway.... if you can get around the dick on the phone, they make some good stuff... [/QUOTE]