Wheel offset question

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

Ok well I'm having rubbing issues and they have since became more evident after I installed my 4in lift with radius arms. Now the manufacture is telling me I need different rims to stop the rubbing on the drivers side radius arm. I'm running 35x12.50 nitto trail graps on my stock 20s. Now I have a fella lined up that wants to trade his XD spy's for my stock 20s.

Here's the specs on his rims:

Size:
20x8.5
Finish:
Chrome
Boltpattern:
8x170
Offset:
18
Back Spacing
5.46
Hub Bore:
125.50

Now do y'all think this will solve my rubbing problems or not? Thanks in advance fellas

powerstrokin15 · Mar 12, 2013

is that postive 18mm offset? if so then no, it will not solve your rubbing issue. should make it worse i believe.

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

powerstrokin15 said:
is that postive 18mm offset? if so then no, it will not solve your rubbing issue. should make it worse i believe.

I honestly have no idea if it positive or negative offset. If its a negative offset would it solve the problem?

powerstrokin15 · Mar 12, 2013

yea. -18mm would let you clear with no problem

java · Mar 12, 2013

Factory offset is +40 i think. So a +18 would help a little wouldn't it?

powerstrokin15 · Mar 12, 2013

java said:
Factory offset is +40 i think. So a +18 would help a little wouldn't it?

oh heck i thought it was closer to 0. then yes. it would, my bad

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

powerstrokin15 said:
yea. -18mm would let you clear with no problem

I can't find anything online that tells if it's negative or positive offset. But I have some pics of his truck and radius arms and it's shows no rubbing on his truck. But he's only running a leveling kit. Any thought?

powerstrokin15 · Mar 12, 2013

that looks like positive offset.. but java said factory offset is +40, so you should clear with no issue like the pictures shown. sorry i jumped the gun

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

powerstrokin15 said:
that looks like positive offset.. but java said factory offset is +40, so you should clear with no issue like the pictures shown. sorry i jumped the gun

No worries man! It happens to the best of us lol I guess if all else fail I could run the 1.5in spacers I just bought from Mink on here.

powerstrokin15 · Mar 12, 2013

I say run the spacers and factory 20s. they look better IMO. and should clear with no prob then

Sent looking at my blown up 6.4

java · Mar 12, 2013

Im like 95% positive that it is +40 but i could be wrong.. Hopefully someone will have a for sure answer.

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

powerstrokin15 said:
I say run the spacers and factory 20s. they look better IMO. and should clear with no prob then

Sent looking at my blown up 6.4

You think so? I was really trying to avoid running the spacers at all costs since everybody says they aren't that good. I'd rather keep the stock wheels but this rubbing is driving me crazy lol

powerstrokin15 · Mar 12, 2013

ive never had experience with them. you bought them from josh, he ran them for a long time with no issues right?

GCncsuHD · Mar 12, 2013

The +18 is much less than factory offset, it will only help.

As far as spacers with stock wheels, go ahead, there is nothing wrong with them, just be absolutely sure to get hub centric, as the stock wheels use flat washer lug nuts, there is not conical seat to center them, so you must use hub centric.

I have been running 2" spacers on my 2000 to fit 08+ OEM 20s for about 7000mi now with no issues. Combined between previous vehicles, I probably have 120k+ mi on spacers, with moderately heavy towing making up a good percentage of that. Have you ever seen a F350 Dually? (or a Dodge or GM dually for that matter?) They have bolt on spacers on the front hub to get the correct track width. Ever looked at the back wheel of one? The inner wheel is no different than a slip on spacer between the outer wheel and the hub. If it's good enough for the OEM, it will work for me. The key is to get the right spacers, make sure they aren't cheap cast material, 6061 aluminum is plenty strong, but some prefer steel, make sure they quality studs of the correct grade, lots of cheap studs out there, make sure you get hub centric if it is required for your wheels, and most of all proper torque, not too much, not too little, and don't run anti seize on your studs, if you do, reduce the torque by 20% or you will deform or even break your studs.

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

powerstrokin15 said:
ive never had experience with them. you bought them from josh, he ran them for a long time with no issues right?

I assume he had no issues. I've just always heard that spacers where no good because most of them were not machined correctly and they were not hub centric. I personally have no experience with spacers either but that's what I've always been told

GCncsuHD · Mar 12, 2013

BlueOx said:
I assume he had no issues. I've just always heard that spacers where no good because most of them were not machined correctly and they were not hub centric. I personally have no experience with spacers either but that's what I've always been told

The old slip on spacers that were made from cheap cast material, and generally were not machined to a flat surface are the cause for many of the stories. It is easy to find quality spacers now, both slip on and bolt on without those issue. Generally I don't like slip ons any wider than 3/8". And yes, you will need hub centric for your stock wheels. For aftermarket wheels with conical lugs, that is not important.

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

GCncsuHD said:
The old slip on spacers that were made from cheap cast material, and generally were not machined to a flat surface are the cause for many of the stories. It is easy to find quality spacers now, both slip on and bolt on without those issue. Generally I don't like slip ons any wider than 3/8". And yes, you will need hub centric for your stock wheels. For aftermarket wheels with conical lugs, that is not important.

I really have no way of knowing if the spacers are hub centric though. I don't think josh knew if they were or not

MINK · Mar 12, 2013

The spacers I sold you were new as you will see they wernt even opened for me to pull the original recipt out. That being said they are the exact same spacer I ran for over a year with stock wheels/35s, 22x10/33s, 22x10/36s along with towing from 5k-12k pounds via bumper pull with zero issues what so ever.

GCncsuHD · Mar 12, 2013

BlueOx said:
I really have no way of knowing if the spacers are hub centric though. I don't think josh knew if they were or not

That's pretty simple. If they have a flat face and fit loosely on the hub before cinching down, they are lug centric. If they fit snug on the hub when you push them on, and have a lip for the wheel to fit snugly on as well, they are hub centric.

These are a set of lug centric spacers that are on the rear of my 78 dually. The aftermarket wheels that are on that truck have a huge center bore so that they can fit 8x6.5 Ford, Chevy, and Dodge hubs with just one wheel, and use conical lugs, so hub centric would have been worthless in that application.

I don't have a picture of the hub centric spacers on my F250, but here is a picture of the OEM front hub spacer from a 4wd F350 Dually, you can see the hub centric lip on these.

BlueOx · Mar 12, 2013

MINK said:
The spacers I sold you were new as you will see they wernt even opened for me to pull the original recipt out. That being said they are the exact same spacer I ran for over a year with stock wheels/35s, 22x10/33s, 22x10/36s along with towing from 5k-12k pounds via bumper pull with zero issues what so ever.

Roger that man! Thanks for clarifying. I wasn't trying to say you sold me some bad spacers. Just wasn't exactly sure about them.