What's the point of a 5 micron and a 1 micron filter after a centrifuge? The centrifuge should be filtering more than that... I heat/settle WVO and final filter to 1 micron absolute. Still wont touch any WATF/WMO. Not even centrifuged.
I will disagree with not running WMO/WATF over bio or WVO. If filter correctly WMO or WATF is safer then WVO or bio. The reason for this is WMO/WATF does not have as big of an issue with moisture in the oil like WVO or Bio does.
Before you question this let me tell you might back ground on WVO. Back in 2006 I converted my truck to run on either bio/wvo. Heated two tank system with custom HOH. My temps where 165 degrees before they entered the head. Spent alot of time on this.
During my testing of filtering setups I would send samples of oil of to the UofM to get test for debris and moisture in the oil down to .01 microns and moisture down in the .05% or less.
The set-up required to do WVO was more complex and left more areas for mistakes to be made then when I did testing on WATF/WMO
Set-up for WVO
Heat WVO up
100 Micron Filter
Centrifuge
1 micron filter
Settle for a month. That was the best way I found
WMO/WATF
Ran thru
100 Micron filter
Centrifuge (found to be optional)
1 Micron Filter
Right into trucks heat tank.
All this test took me about 2 yrs and countless different set-ups. All my test was done on good quality oils not sludge from the bottom of the bucket.
At the end of the 2 yrs I was burned out on collecting filtering and deals with the every day mess of the stuff and I end up pulling it from the truck. At this point in time the truck also went from being driving every day to only being used on the weekends to pull the boat or snowmobile trailer.
Wasn’t worth it for the 3,000 miles I put on a yr.
Now to answer the OP questions about running it in a 6.4l you can but I wouldn’t unless you are really anal about collecting and cleaning the oil and are prepared to fork out big money if an injector sticks open and melts a piston down.
Just my 2 cents from my expersnse.