Wayne
Active member
Okay guys, I've been wanting to vent my crank case to my exhaust pipe for since before I even bought the truck. ***If you try this mod, IT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK as I don't have all necessary data yet to validate it's effectiveness.
truck specs: It's an '08 CCLB SRW (build date 01/07) with SCT Livewire loaded with innovative tunes (usually the extreme street), No Limit IC pipe and elbow, Elite basic EGR delete, Flo-Pro 4" downpipe back no muffler aluminized exhaust, modded stock intake (has yet to move the filter minder even a little bit), 6" fabtech lift, fabtech floating traction bars, & 37" toyo m/t's.
^as I bought it
^as it sits now
Extra reasons to try this: I bought it completely stock back in december with 168000 miles through a wholesaler in Texas after the original owner traded it in. I have all the receipts from the owner for all the repairs ever made. The truck is very well taken care of, and I'm not worried about the miles as it'll probably have a built drivetrain within the next year or so anyway. dealer receipts from back at 98000 miles on showed repairs of glow plug wiring harnesses leaking oil from valve cover holes, which was the case when I bought it. One of the seals on a valve cover had popped out due to crank case pressure. After I fixed this, and ran it on the extreme street tune it actually lifted the dip stick, and spit oil on the under side of my hood. Yeah, it breathes a little extra heavy out of the CCV.
Engine has perfect power balance, runs smooth, starts easy, everything you'd expect from a well taken care of engine with that kind of miles. crank case pressure problems are solved ever since I routed the air through a 1" heater hose down the frame rail under the back of the cab. You can see a slight haze out of the end of the hose after a hard run, and it stinks. I was annoyed at seeing/smelling the venting so here's what I tried.:
The pipe I welded in is a 3/4" ID X 4" galvanized pipe. Before I attached the hose I had somebody rev the engine to 3500 rpms gradually as well as snap off idle to check pressure/vacuum on both the hose and pipe to make sure I wouldn't push exhaust into the crank case, or suck the oil out the tail pipe. there was almost 0 pressure out the pipe at all times, and seemed to begin to pull a slight vacuum at high rpms. I'll be hooking up a vacuum/boost gauge soon to see exactly what it's doing at all engine loads and exhaust velocity. So far, all the stink and haze is nicely mixed with exhaust gasses, and out the tailpipe just how I like it. Dipstick stays where it belongs, and glow plug harnesses stay put. more info to follow as I get pressure readings.
Note: If anyone else tries this, keep in mind that different crank case pressures and exhaust velocities, as well as venturi designs play a big role in getting things just right, so if the system isn't tested after it's put together you could be asking for the kind of trouble I stated above.
truck specs: It's an '08 CCLB SRW (build date 01/07) with SCT Livewire loaded with innovative tunes (usually the extreme street), No Limit IC pipe and elbow, Elite basic EGR delete, Flo-Pro 4" downpipe back no muffler aluminized exhaust, modded stock intake (has yet to move the filter minder even a little bit), 6" fabtech lift, fabtech floating traction bars, & 37" toyo m/t's.
^as I bought it
^as it sits now
Extra reasons to try this: I bought it completely stock back in december with 168000 miles through a wholesaler in Texas after the original owner traded it in. I have all the receipts from the owner for all the repairs ever made. The truck is very well taken care of, and I'm not worried about the miles as it'll probably have a built drivetrain within the next year or so anyway. dealer receipts from back at 98000 miles on showed repairs of glow plug wiring harnesses leaking oil from valve cover holes, which was the case when I bought it. One of the seals on a valve cover had popped out due to crank case pressure. After I fixed this, and ran it on the extreme street tune it actually lifted the dip stick, and spit oil on the under side of my hood. Yeah, it breathes a little extra heavy out of the CCV.
Engine has perfect power balance, runs smooth, starts easy, everything you'd expect from a well taken care of engine with that kind of miles. crank case pressure problems are solved ever since I routed the air through a 1" heater hose down the frame rail under the back of the cab. You can see a slight haze out of the end of the hose after a hard run, and it stinks. I was annoyed at seeing/smelling the venting so here's what I tried.:
The pipe I welded in is a 3/4" ID X 4" galvanized pipe. Before I attached the hose I had somebody rev the engine to 3500 rpms gradually as well as snap off idle to check pressure/vacuum on both the hose and pipe to make sure I wouldn't push exhaust into the crank case, or suck the oil out the tail pipe. there was almost 0 pressure out the pipe at all times, and seemed to begin to pull a slight vacuum at high rpms. I'll be hooking up a vacuum/boost gauge soon to see exactly what it's doing at all engine loads and exhaust velocity. So far, all the stink and haze is nicely mixed with exhaust gasses, and out the tailpipe just how I like it. Dipstick stays where it belongs, and glow plug harnesses stay put. more info to follow as I get pressure readings.
Note: If anyone else tries this, keep in mind that different crank case pressures and exhaust velocities, as well as venturi designs play a big role in getting things just right, so if the system isn't tested after it's put together you could be asking for the kind of trouble I stated above.
