nossliw
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- Jan 26, 2013
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Hey all,
I have a couple turbo questions for you.
I have a standard S366 I picked up a while back, nothing special done to it, just a baseline model. I have considered a billet wheel, but have never quite understood what all the stage 1/2/3 series turbo builds really consist of. What all they are doing to it to, to really make it worth the extra pennies? I have read a couple of threads using the BASB S300 Series Bell Turbos, specific for towing. They make this thing sound like the holy grail of 300 series turbos, especially for towing and EGT, low RPM spool, and some impressive volumetric flow #'s. It may still be 6-8 months off but I am planning to do a t4 mount, bellows, studs and springs/pushrods. My plan is either to drop the 366 in, or may consider going to the BASB Bell model if its cracked up to be as good as I have read. I want to do it once and do it right for what the truck will be used for. Not keep changing it over and over again. My only forseen future mods after this would be an e-fuel system and in a 100-150k, maybe some stage 2 sticks if the turbo agrees.
I currently have a very mild stage 1 injected, billet wheeled factory rebuilt turbo with an IC and water injection. I can not tow heavy in anything except a stock tune on the chip, it gets waaay too hot waay too fast if I’m not running water. I know my tuning is off and sure would like to get it live tuned one day once I’m done with the turbo swap, but it would be a waste of money at this point and something I’m just going to deal with and drive in the stock tune.
I wanted to ask you all what your opinions of pros and cons of certain setups that you have experienced, not “heard” were excellent. I felt I had read every thread about the s366 vs s4 series, vs H2E vs. D66 vs, 38R and so on. I made my decision on the 366 after my reading whether it right or wrong it’s what I thought was best for me. I simply want a turbo that will keep it cool and is towing friendly. This is not a hot rod truck, and primarily is for commuting or towing 12-16k on average for lengthy trips. My main concern are EGTs, towing in the mountains, and just being a towing/daily driving friendly turbo. For those below 5000 feet towing heavy from 8000 to 11000 feet is much different than flat land towing below 5000.
I have made up my mind on the 366 as of now, but am curious if the BASB Bell model is worth the $1350? Is it rebuildable? I guess after all my hoopla that is my question, with a mild stage 1 or 2 sticked truck with some bitchn’ tuning someday, would it worth ponying up the extra money and going with the BASB 3 series from Full Force over the 366? Is it worth 1350$ Why or why not?
That is all, thank for listening to my mind wondering… I’ll be asking more in the future regarding t4 mounts and measurements from those who have done it themselves, or those who feel Jakes kit is worth 1400, and why? I don't need IC pipes, or a down pipe, intake y or any of that. Just the t4 mount and plumbing, and bellowed up pipes. Thank for your time to hear me ramble on...
I have a couple turbo questions for you.
I have a standard S366 I picked up a while back, nothing special done to it, just a baseline model. I have considered a billet wheel, but have never quite understood what all the stage 1/2/3 series turbo builds really consist of. What all they are doing to it to, to really make it worth the extra pennies? I have read a couple of threads using the BASB S300 Series Bell Turbos, specific for towing. They make this thing sound like the holy grail of 300 series turbos, especially for towing and EGT, low RPM spool, and some impressive volumetric flow #'s. It may still be 6-8 months off but I am planning to do a t4 mount, bellows, studs and springs/pushrods. My plan is either to drop the 366 in, or may consider going to the BASB Bell model if its cracked up to be as good as I have read. I want to do it once and do it right for what the truck will be used for. Not keep changing it over and over again. My only forseen future mods after this would be an e-fuel system and in a 100-150k, maybe some stage 2 sticks if the turbo agrees.
I currently have a very mild stage 1 injected, billet wheeled factory rebuilt turbo with an IC and water injection. I can not tow heavy in anything except a stock tune on the chip, it gets waaay too hot waay too fast if I’m not running water. I know my tuning is off and sure would like to get it live tuned one day once I’m done with the turbo swap, but it would be a waste of money at this point and something I’m just going to deal with and drive in the stock tune.
I wanted to ask you all what your opinions of pros and cons of certain setups that you have experienced, not “heard” were excellent. I felt I had read every thread about the s366 vs s4 series, vs H2E vs. D66 vs, 38R and so on. I made my decision on the 366 after my reading whether it right or wrong it’s what I thought was best for me. I simply want a turbo that will keep it cool and is towing friendly. This is not a hot rod truck, and primarily is for commuting or towing 12-16k on average for lengthy trips. My main concern are EGTs, towing in the mountains, and just being a towing/daily driving friendly turbo. For those below 5000 feet towing heavy from 8000 to 11000 feet is much different than flat land towing below 5000.
I have made up my mind on the 366 as of now, but am curious if the BASB Bell model is worth the $1350? Is it rebuildable? I guess after all my hoopla that is my question, with a mild stage 1 or 2 sticked truck with some bitchn’ tuning someday, would it worth ponying up the extra money and going with the BASB 3 series from Full Force over the 366? Is it worth 1350$ Why or why not?
That is all, thank for listening to my mind wondering… I’ll be asking more in the future regarding t4 mounts and measurements from those who have done it themselves, or those who feel Jakes kit is worth 1400, and why? I don't need IC pipes, or a down pipe, intake y or any of that. Just the t4 mount and plumbing, and bellowed up pipes. Thank for your time to hear me ramble on...
