CCV - Can't take the Smell

TARM

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buschpoweredstroker

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I assume that angle on the fitting into the exhaust would be a factor also. Not that psi cares about an angle, but flow may help cancel the psi factor... if you look at the mod pulling trucks w/ ccv run into the exhaust, they usually run at about a 45deg. angle to the collectors, i doubt that more angle would hurt though, any of the exhaust tests run with an angle on the ccv tube? still say vent to atmosphere for simplicity, but i'm kinda curious now about the angle having an effect
 

907DAVE

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You guys who live in colder climates need to pay close attention to these breather tubes. If there is any low spots in the hose condensation could build up and freeze, and you are gonna be leaking oil out of every gasket you can think of. Ideally the hose needs to be on a gradual decline until the exit.

Thats the only reason I put up with the smell, I dont think it is possible to do.
 

Big Bore

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You guys who live in colder climates need to pay close attention to these breather tubes. If there is any low spots in the hose condensation could build up and freeze, and you are gonna be leaking oil out of every gasket you can think of. Ideally the hose needs to be on a gradual decline until the exit.

Thats the only reason I put up with the smell, I dont think it is possible to do.

Dave, my truck started out in the Sierras running a Racor, and now 3 winters at 9000ft in the Rockies. So far I haven't had any oil leaks (well none that were gaskets LOL) should I still be concerned? Your post is freaking me out now thinking about it happening.
 

907DAVE

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I would give it another look over I was you, it only takes one time to cause issues.
 

Big Bore

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I would give it another look over I was you, it only takes one time to cause issues.

I think I just realised why I may not be having problems. You said condensation. You have to have humidity for that to happen. LOL

Even with 3 feet of snow melting on the ground I doubt humidity ever reaches 50% up here. It just evaporates. I have to keep a kettle of water on the wood stove in winter just to keep from getting nosebleeds from dry air.
 

907DAVE

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Your engine creates condensation while its running. Think about what happens when you shut off the engine and it cools.....it collects moisture.....and that is one of the tasks of your oil - to deal with the moisture.

Ever pull something cold inside and see the condensation that forms on it, well it does that on the inside too.
 

Arisley

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I think I just realised why I may not be having problems. You said condensation. You have to have humidity for that to happen. LOL

Even with 3 feet of snow melting on the ground I doubt humidity ever reaches 50% up here. It just evaporates. I have to keep a kettle of water on the wood stove in winter just to keep from getting nosebleeds from dry air.

Yeah, I've heard y'all can just pour a bag of chips in a bowl and snack on them all week long. And they are still fresh. Try that here and they are stale and soggly in a couple hours.
 

Tom S

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Your engine creates condensation while its running. Think about what happens when you shut off the engine and it cools.....it collects moisture.....and that is one of the tasks of your oil - to deal with the moisture.

Ever pull something cold inside and see the condensation that forms on it, well it does that on the inside too.

I agree if you hold your fingers by the CCV tube in cold weather you get wet fingers quick.

Just a thought but it seems like some of those commercial CCV kits with the trap are mounted in the engine bay. Warm area perhaps?
 

SkySki Jason

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Instead of building a catch can, I simply bought a t-strainer.

t-strainer_filter.jpg


These come in all sizes. I found one big enough to do the job. Plus they are cheap.

Tractor Supply carries these, just not with clear housings...

I thought the smell was horrible and the smoke/vapor was annoying - even on a 'new' but broken-in engine. I cannot see the harm in some oil in the intake myself - with good boots and clamps I don't 'see' any oil (dirty engine) and at just 30psi of boost I'm not blowing boots due to oil, so I've decided stock is good for me...

on edit: after 300k miles and a hole in a piston, there was at most a few oz's of oil that had 'collected' in my stock CAC - unless this is not typical, I think a drain would not be much benefit...

What's up with the bug-spray smell from the Rotella??? That sh!t is nasty...
 
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TARM

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You can make the same thing out of some PVC and steel wool for $10 You can then route out the back, up front like International trucks, or back into the intake, whatever. Make it a decent size and there will be no effect on vacuum.
 

Tom S

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So do these catch can types of products capture all of the oil so that the intake track is oil free?
 

Suns_PSD

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I didn't read the entire thread but I'll say years ago I tried multiple configurations and they all caused oil leaks. I'm vented to the atmosphere now and it's fine for me.
 

cj45lc

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So do these catch can types of products capture all of the oil so that the intake track is oil free?

The one I have pretty much catches all the oil, it's one that I bought from one of the venders. I have it mounted on the frame under the driver door & the hose hooked back to the intake tube. I have run into a problem with it getting plugged up & when that happened I had an oil leak at the rear seal, as soon as I drained the can the oil leak stopped. Maybe my truck blows more oil out than most IDK but last week I decided to cut the canister open & try to come up with a solution.
What I found was the canister had the scrubbie pads in there & they were saturated & were not letting the vapor pass through. They would probably been ok if I would drain the oil out on the canister quite often but I wanted to be able to drain it at my oil change interval.
My solution was to make the canister a little larger & I used some alum expanded metal wire lathe that stucco guys use instead of the scrubbie pads, my thinking is that will give the oil something to fall out of the vapor onto without plugging up.
Another thing I did awhile ago, the first time the can got blocked the oil saturated the heater hose I had running to it. I went to a Parker store & got oil rated hose to solve that deal. The first time it happened was because the drain valve that came with the can had become plugged & although I thought I had drained it apparently I didn't. I replaced that valve with a small gas ball valve & it works good.
Sorry for being long winded but just wanted to give my experience with the deal.
 

Mwilbur516

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So do these catch can types of products capture all of the oil so that the intake track is oil free?
I know some guys that have built their own catch cans the same way so many threads on this and all the other sites instruct you to and everybody has said that some oil still gets back into the intake. The only way to get it all out is to NOT return to the intake. I've had my CCV vented to the atmosphere for a while now with no issues and no oily CAC boots. The only oil I see is what is on the frame rail coming from the end of my 1" I.D. oil rated CCV tube, and that works for me.
 

Arisley

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Mine was giving some oil back. I redisigned it, that's the nice thing about PVC, its cheap. I can remove the top to replace the media, and I have a plug in the bottom to drain. The inlet line is about two inches down the side, the return line is coming out the top. No issues with oil now.
 

Tom S

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Amazingly mine is vented to atmosphere and that tube has never dripped a drop ever. I can rub a white shirt up against it crawling under the truck and it does not even leave a mark. I wonder if I had a catch can if it would end up with oil in the intake or not.
 

cj45lc

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Mine was giving some oil back. I redisigned it, that's the nice thing about PVC, its cheap. I can remove the top to replace the media, and I have a plug in the bottom to drain. The inlet line is about two inches down the side, the return line is coming out the top. No issues with oil now.

Pretty much did the same Andy, yep PVC is cheap
 

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