CCV - Can't take the Smell

lowbedriver

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It does pull a vacuum at the crankcase, not much but enough so there is slight negative press. Venturi effect
Something like this Summit Racing SUM-120108 -
 
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TARM

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No any neg even a zero balance is fine. Thats good to know as a much have tried and ended up with back pressure instead. This would then be an ideal setup the way you have it. Nice
 

Tom S

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No any neg even a zero balance is fine. Thats good to know as a much have tried and ended up with back pressure instead. This would then be an ideal setup the way you have it. Nice

You should post up some photos on how it was done as others have not had good luck going that route. I had the parts to do this and backed off from it when I did my exhaust changes the last time.
 

lowbedriver

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I did it on my brother in laws truck a couple of years ago and he sold his truck last month. I don't have it on my current truck because I haven't pulled the down pipe off yet.When I get my new mount from Irate I plan on welding it in before install.
I borrowed a gauge from a friend that calibrates gauges for the military.Tapped a fitting in the oil cap,sealed it with silicone (I was very BORED that day!).at idle it showed a VERY slight vacuum,at 1500 rpm it showed almost 1in neg.The only time I got a positive reading was after running at 1800 rpm and slamming the throttle closed.Positive reading lasted about 2-3 seconds.
This is the only "turbo" vehicle I've put this on but have put the same system on 8 other N/A vehicles.ALL have worked !
 

Mwilbur516

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I just don't get how anything could be better (besides the smell and that doesn't bother me) than just dumping the CCV under the truck. I guess I figured that pressure couldn't build that way.
 

lowbedriver

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I just don't get how anything could be better (besides the smell and that doesn't bother me) than just dumping the CCV under the truck. I guess I figured that pressure couldn't build that way.
Because this pulls the vapor into the exhaust and you don't have the dripping or the smell.And supposedly it helps the rings seal tighter?
 

cowboy_dan

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I just don't get how anything could be better (besides the smell and that doesn't bother me) than just dumping the CCV under the truck. I guess I figured that pressure couldn't build that way.

I believe most if not all dragstrips require a catchcan if the vehicle doesn't route the CCV back to the intake. I'm not sure if they'd allow it to run into the exhaust since the goal is to keep the oil off the track.
Running the vent into the exhaust would vaporize and disperse the oil better than just dropping out a tube under the tube, but I don't know if it would be acceptable at a dragstrip.
 

lowbedriver

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I believe most if not all dragstrips require a catchcan if the vehicle doesn't route the CCV back to the intake. I'm not sure if they'd allow it to run into the exhaust since the goal is to keep the oil off the track.
Running the vent into the exhaust would vaporize and disperse the oil better than just dropping out a tube under the tube, but I don't know if it would be acceptable at a dragstrip.
It's allowed in some classes,don't know for sure about all but look at some pics of the small gas dragsters you'll see this system plumbed into the headers
 

genie144

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I did it on my brother in laws truck a couple of years ago and he sold his truck last month. I don't have it on my current truck because I haven't pulled the down pipe off yet.When I get my new mount from Irate I plan on welding it in before install.
I borrowed a gauge from a friend that calibrates gauges for the military.Tapped a fitting in the oil cap,sealed it with silicone (I was very BORED that day!).at idle it showed a VERY slight vacuum,at 1500 rpm it showed almost 1in neg.The only time I got a positive reading was after running at 1800 rpm and slamming the throttle closed.Positive reading lasted about 2-3 seconds. This is the only "turbo" vehicle I've put this on but have put the same system on 8 other N/A vehicles.ALL have worked !
Have a question about that statement. What was the positive reading? I would think it doesn't matter how long the positive reads but rather the level of reading that matters...

Sam
 

Tom S

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I think the gauge you would use to measure this is a magnahelic one. The spelling is hopefully semi-close. I also think you can do that with a u-shaped tube filled with water.
 

cowboy_dan

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I also think you can do that with a u-shaped tube filled with water.

You mean a manometer? :poke: :)

If you really want to go that route, I'd recommend an Inclined Manometer. You get much better resolution with it as opposed to a standard U-tube manometer.
 

TARM

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To put that into a perspective people are more use to 1" H20 = 0.0361 PSI

It take over 27" H20 to equal 1 PSI

Ideally a small vacuum to help evacuate the vapors is great but to much vacuum apparently is also not good.

From what I can see it surprisingly takes very little CC pressure to create issues. We are not even talking close to 1 psi from what I can tell.

Does anyone have a chart or a spec range for crank case pressure? What is the amount blow by thats acceptable? The point you need to be looking at piston rings or valve seal? The point you where seals begin to leak from the pressure.

I can not think of any negative in performance to having a CCV on each head instead of just one. If they are going to be taken into the down pipe or run to the rear of the vehicle its just some extra hose or a Y or T to a central hose or catch can.

Just an FYI a member over on PSN did actual testing of the effects on CCP from vent to atmosphere, into intake, catch can to atmosphere and also back into turbo. With the catch cans made for the 3" PVC with SS mesh the can seemed to have no effect on pressure.

What I have wondered is while there is a vacuum from being plumbed into the air intake what about when you let off the throttle when you were building boost. COnsdier that there is enough back pressure venting thru the intake filters to blow the hose right off the turbo inlet with larger turbos. All certainly get that whoosh sound as the boost blows back out thru the compressor wheel and intake filter. I tend to wonder just how high the crank case pressure spikes and causes seals gaskets o rings etc to leak or be damaged...

As far as I can tell the most consistent levels will be had from venting to atmosphere or to exhaust if you can effectively get it to pull or hold neutral. As exhaust flow would go up with load as would CCP it should work well together in theory.
 

lowbedriver

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The reason I did this mod is I ran a small block chevy that turned in the 7500+ rpm and it used to puke oil out the breathers all the time.A buddy that was running a dragster told me about this,so I tried it and presto! no more oil all over the valve covers. This was in the 70's (yes I know I'm OLD):shocked:
 

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