bluedge8
Active member
Rh lf are always from the drivers pov. Rh= passenger side.
Engines out, what to do
- Thread starter JD3020
- Start date
JD3020
Active member
I've worked on some stuff where they have stuff marked RH and LH, but its from the front.
Now going off that, i have my mounts on the right sides. But IDK how the driver side mount is supposed to be, whether the studs are up or down. Not sure how i have em set right now. Just seems odd because the way it is, the passenger side mount will not sit flat against the frame. Unless that side of the engine is way down, and needs to be up higher.
Getting ready to go up and mess with it now, maybe i have the mounts right and just need to wiggle it around some more. Can't move it much though until later when somebody else is home so i can have a forklift operator.
Now going off that, i have my mounts on the right sides. But IDK how the driver side mount is supposed to be, whether the studs are up or down. Not sure how i have em set right now. Just seems odd because the way it is, the passenger side mount will not sit flat against the frame. Unless that side of the engine is way down, and needs to be up higher.
Getting ready to go up and mess with it now, maybe i have the mounts right and just need to wiggle it around some more. Can't move it much though until later when somebody else is home so i can have a forklift operator.
JD3020
Active member
Its running!
Mounts were flipped around, and it kept fighting us, but after a bunch of messing with it, it finally went in! I filled the res and the fuel bowl, but then realized i left the drain open so it emptied back out, but it really didn't take that long at all to fire. Surprised me considering how torn down the engine was, and the fact that it hasn't ran in 4+ months, and i had no idea if it would even run!
Runs a lot better than my engine ever did, much smoother, much healthier sounding. No chip in it right now, but it revs just as good as it did with the chip on the old engine. I do have a slight fuel leak at the front of the engine, and i'm getting a bunch of smoke coming up the sides of the engine. Not sure if its the never-sieze burning off the manifolds, or what. So i gotta fix that stuff, get the radiator/condensor in, and then take it for a test drive tomorrow.
And here's the vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GmavcJ_DBw
Mounts were flipped around, and it kept fighting us, but after a bunch of messing with it, it finally went in! I filled the res and the fuel bowl, but then realized i left the drain open so it emptied back out, but it really didn't take that long at all to fire. Surprised me considering how torn down the engine was, and the fact that it hasn't ran in 4+ months, and i had no idea if it would even run!
Runs a lot better than my engine ever did, much smoother, much healthier sounding. No chip in it right now, but it revs just as good as it did with the chip on the old engine. I do have a slight fuel leak at the front of the engine, and i'm getting a bunch of smoke coming up the sides of the engine. Not sure if its the never-sieze burning off the manifolds, or what. So i gotta fix that stuff, get the radiator/condensor in, and then take it for a test drive tomorrow.
And here's the vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GmavcJ_DBw
Chvyrkr
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Good deal. What kinda paint did you use? Any chance it's burning off the paint near the manifolds?
bluedge8
Active member
sounds good
JD3020
Active member
I used Dupli-color engine primer and paint, and 2000* paint on the manifolds. So it may just be burning off the paint. It had a very odd smell, and was coming up on both sides all the way down the block. The engine has no coolant so we didn't run it that long, so the block or anything never got hot
JD3020
Active member
Well i've got a few more issues. After maybe 2 minutes of run time tonight checking for more leaks and one quick trip to 3500 rpm's, the alternator is extremely hot, and doesn't seem to be charging. So i guess i'll need one of those as well now.
I've got a bad fuel leak at the quick connect fitting where the metal lines goes to flex down by the frame rail at the engine, i believe its the feed line. Reason i think this, is because it cranks forever before it ever fires. So i think its just bleeding down when I shut it off, once it fires its still running good though. Not sure whether theres an o-ring in there to replace, or if the whole fitting/line is junk.
I know if i go to Ford to get new lines from the frame to the valley, they'll bend me over without any sort of lube for em. And it looks like it'd be a PITA to get 2 lines bent up. Would some sort of diesel-rated high pressure fuel line work for that, or would I have to run steel lines up the front of the engine?
Been thinking about about getting some sort of high pressure hose, with some sort of sheathing on it to protect it from rubbing on the block any.
I've got a bad fuel leak at the quick connect fitting where the metal lines goes to flex down by the frame rail at the engine, i believe its the feed line. Reason i think this, is because it cranks forever before it ever fires. So i think its just bleeding down when I shut it off, once it fires its still running good though. Not sure whether theres an o-ring in there to replace, or if the whole fitting/line is junk.
I know if i go to Ford to get new lines from the frame to the valley, they'll bend me over without any sort of lube for em. And it looks like it'd be a PITA to get 2 lines bent up. Would some sort of diesel-rated high pressure fuel line work for that, or would I have to run steel lines up the front of the engine?
Been thinking about about getting some sort of high pressure hose, with some sort of sheathing on it to protect it from rubbing on the block any.
bluedge8
Active member
double check your connections before buying cutting up the factory lines, might just need to be reseated
Stroker#66
New member
I is cranking long because the high pressure system probably still has air in it. It'll take 20-30 miles of good hard driving to get the air out before itll start good
JD3020
Active member
I've swapped a couple sets of injectors and HPOP's, but this is acting a lot worse. Plus the reservoir is staying full.
And the line is seated alright, but not sealing worth a ****. Gonna stop by Ford today to price new lines and see if i can't get an o-ring. If the o-ring doesn't fix it, and their price is way high then i'm gonna make my own.
And the line is seated alright, but not sealing worth a ****. Gonna stop by Ford today to price new lines and see if i can't get an o-ring. If the o-ring doesn't fix it, and their price is way high then i'm gonna make my own.
JD3020
Active member
Well i got it fixed up and running. Right now its temporarily set-up. Running a "hood stack", no fan, no hood, no bumper, etc... Made it maybe 2 miles, was running fine, EOT was sitting around 180, then the temp gauge started creeping up. Then it flipped over to hot. Went another 1/2 mile or so to the gas station and pulled in. There was water sprayed all over the driver side of the engine. Upper hose was extremely hot, lower hose felt cold. Opened the de-gas cap and it started steaming. Also was pouring water out of the lower hose. Must've gotten an air bubble or something.
So i went in, bought a few gallons of water, filled it up, and went to leave. It cranked and cranked. Truck fired up, was running choppy like it had a fast lope tune, then died. Fired it back up, did the same thing, smoothed out, reved it up and it died. Drove a mile home at 25mph and it kept surging. Hoping that its just air in the fuel/oil.
But so far its seems to be running alright other than these issues.
So i went in, bought a few gallons of water, filled it up, and went to leave. It cranked and cranked. Truck fired up, was running choppy like it had a fast lope tune, then died. Fired it back up, did the same thing, smoothed out, reved it up and it died. Drove a mile home at 25mph and it kept surging. Hoping that its just air in the fuel/oil.
But so far its seems to be running alright other than these issues.
bluedge8
Active member
you do know how to bleed the cooling system right? I hope you didn't cook a hg
JD3020
Active member
Yeah, i did the water pump a few months before i yanked the engine out, as well as a bunch of other trucks. Not sure what happened now.
bluedge8
Active member
sometimes a more involved job like an engine swap takes more to get the air out, usually I make sure it has been running for about 1/2hr and has good heat to the heater core and temp gauge is in it's usual spot before driving too far. hope nothing is wrong with the new motor.
JD3020
Active member
I had heat to the heater core before i took off.
But i added some more water to it, tightened up the lower hose clamp which was a hair loose, and took it back to our shop. All's good now with the water situation. Got up to normal temp and stayed there. Doesn't seem to be pushing any water out of the bottle, oil level hasn't changed, and since i'm running a hood stack for the moment i can see the exhaust, and no smoke when its running.
Gotta few things to finish up tomorrow, throw the hood on, then hopefully take it out and put some miles on it.
But i added some more water to it, tightened up the lower hose clamp which was a hair loose, and took it back to our shop. All's good now with the water situation. Got up to normal temp and stayed there. Doesn't seem to be pushing any water out of the bottle, oil level hasn't changed, and since i'm running a hood stack for the moment i can see the exhaust, and no smoke when its running.
Gotta few things to finish up tomorrow, throw the hood on, then hopefully take it out and put some miles on it.
bluedge8
Active member
Very good, you had me a little nervous, you'd be surprised how many diy'er's don't understand bleeding a cooling system! Hell Ford says I need to check my cooling system on my Explorer for 7k miles after you open it because it tends to be really tough to bleed!
JD3020
Active member
Well all thats really left is to put the hood on, which unless i can figure out a way to do it by myself with a forklift and overhead hoist, it'll have to wait until the weekend so i can get some help.
But i think i've got a faulty t-stat. Its doing the same thing it was doing the first time i took it out. Drained the system and i've added 4 gallons in it total so far, sat at hi-idle for 20 minutes, EOT is 205, coolant gauge is reading high, lower hose is hot, heater hoses are hot, upper hose is empty. Which ever since i did the water pump and new t-stat, its been running hotter than it used to. It was a 195*(i think) from Napa.
But i think i've got a faulty t-stat. Its doing the same thing it was doing the first time i took it out. Drained the system and i've added 4 gallons in it total so far, sat at hi-idle for 20 minutes, EOT is 205, coolant gauge is reading high, lower hose is hot, heater hoses are hot, upper hose is empty. Which ever since i did the water pump and new t-stat, its been running hotter than it used to. It was a 195*(i think) from Napa.
bluedge8
Active member
it would be worth trying a new stat. I have done a few hoods by myself, but not always without scratching paint,,,,
JD3020
Active member
Didn't swap the t-stat, ended up taking it for a drive and it finally opened. Got the hood on, and so far its running alright. I've got a slight oil leak at the rear of the engine, i'm thinking its the pan. I'll just have to clean all that up back there and cover it with RTV one day.
But i may have another issue. When my truck is in park/neutral i've been hearing a very, very faint noise from the converter area. In the truck you can't hear it, but out of the truck you can. Really hard to describe how it sounds. Put it in gear and it goes away. The truck is driving/shifting fine, no noises/vibrations/anything at all. But when i shut it down i get a very harsh rattle, and it does shake the whole truck fairly harsh. Was that way before as well, haven't figured it out yet.
But i'm not sure if this new noise is nothing, flexplate bolts loose, or a converter going out. Or it could be as simple as the exhaust rubbing on something. . The downpipe may be loose at the flange to the rest of the exhaust, so i'll check that out tomorrow. Like i said the truck drives fine, makes no noise in gear, and has no noticeable issues. It also hasn't gotten any louder at all, been the exact same noise. And actually tonight when i took the video, i heard no noise from the converter area when the engine was idling. Everything was cold as its been parked for a few hours.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGawl2L-qnM
But i may have another issue. When my truck is in park/neutral i've been hearing a very, very faint noise from the converter area. In the truck you can't hear it, but out of the truck you can. Really hard to describe how it sounds. Put it in gear and it goes away. The truck is driving/shifting fine, no noises/vibrations/anything at all. But when i shut it down i get a very harsh rattle, and it does shake the whole truck fairly harsh. Was that way before as well, haven't figured it out yet.
But i'm not sure if this new noise is nothing, flexplate bolts loose, or a converter going out. Or it could be as simple as the exhaust rubbing on something. . The downpipe may be loose at the flange to the rest of the exhaust, so i'll check that out tomorrow. Like i said the truck drives fine, makes no noise in gear, and has no noticeable issues. It also hasn't gotten any louder at all, been the exact same noise. And actually tonight when i took the video, i heard no noise from the converter area when the engine was idling. Everything was cold as its been parked for a few hours.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGawl2L-qnM
I would take a peek at the downpipe, sounds like it may just be contacting the frame or body someplace. It could be that once a bit of load it put on the motor, it shifts over a bit and and I the clearance issues opens up a bit....if that makes any sense.
If you cannot find any issues there double check the converter nuts. If that looks fine try shooting a bit of WD-40 between the converter and flex plate if you can. Chances are you didn't lube the "nose" of the converter, that will cause some interesting noises as the converter/ flex plate flexes with rpm.
If you cannot find any issues there double check the converter nuts. If that looks fine try shooting a bit of WD-40 between the converter and flex plate if you can. Chances are you didn't lube the "nose" of the converter, that will cause some interesting noises as the converter/ flex plate flexes with rpm.
