Engines out, what to do

JD3020

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...did you ever get compression or leakdown% numbers?

No. Could never get more than 10psi out of a hole, tried 2 gauges. Not sure whats up. But since it has 8 pistons, and from the bottom at least, look fully intact and undamaged, and no markings(other than cross-hatches), that doesn't make sense. Talked to a good friend of ours who used to work a lot on diesels, but got tired of em and moved to cars now, said he's seen similar issues. Engines that have sat for a while will show no compression, when they are in excellent shape. But i believe one of our friends has a borescope that will fit in the injector hole, so i'm gonna see if can borrow it this week and check out the pistons before i start assembling it.

The OBS cooling jets are smaller then the SD one's. Not sure when the change was, but I noticed the same thing. I installed RiffRaff's welded jets and thought something was up. So we looked at the three OBS blocks I have and they were the same, the SD block was the larger ones.


Have all of the jets you've seen been pressed/loc-tited in, or have you seen some brazed from the factory?
 

02POWERSTROKE7.3

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No. Could never get more than 10psi out of a hole, tried 2 gauges. Not sure whats up. But since it has 8 pistons, and from the bottom at least, look fully intact and undamaged, and no markings(other than cross-hatches), that doesn't make sense. Talked to a good friend of ours who used to work a lot on diesels, but got tired of em and moved to cars now, said he's seen similar issues. Engines that have sat for a while will show no compression, when they are in excellent shape. But i believe one of our friends has a borescope that will fit in the injector hole, so i'm gonna see if can borrow it this week and check out the pistons before i start assembling it.


I tried a compression check on a 7.3 that has been setting for several months and im only getting about 200 psi on all 8 cylinders of it. Trying to decide what to do.
 
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JD3020

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Because you have two options after removing heads from a running engine.

Fire rings, or AD/AB/AA injectors.

What he said.

If i had the money to either ring it, or at least studs, the heads would be off. But the oil had no hint of coolant, or fuel for that matter, in it so i'm not going to disturb the gaskets.

May do a leak down test though. For some reason i was thinking i had to be able to crank the engine over for it.
 

Lethalthreat7.3

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Oil crossover line makes a difference and is inexpensive. I fully understand not having $ but install head studs if there is anyway possible for future performance mods. Installing them while the engine is in the truck is possible but it is rough.
 

JD3020

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If i could wait a couple weeks, when i'd hopefully be working full time again(I do a lot of seasonal work), i could do studs. But right now its not an option.


But we are currently in the planning stages of "finishing" the barn at my brothers, where my truck and engines are currently sitting. As of right now it'll be getting insulated, concrete, and a lift in the next couple months. So whenever i'm ready to do studs, i'll be able to pop the cab off and get right at it.
 

Lethalthreat7.3

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It would have been great if I could have lifted the cab. Did mine by unbolting motor mounts, using a jack with a 4x4. Not easy but worked.
 

JD3020

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Borrowed a friends borescope, which wasn't perfect, but everything looks good. Should have the engine put back together tomorrow night, and hopefully dropped in by Friday. Been a lot of set-backs and had other **** pop up, but starting to look like an engine again. Hell today i had planned to get everything put back together, but instead i just got home an hour ago from the farm.

But i've got a few questions. Because of the amount of time this engine has sat, and the fact that i have a less than desirable work area(gravel floors), i'm planning on running cheap cheap oil for 1-200 miles, then switch over to my regular oil. So could i run some 5-30 oil, and possibly add in a small amount of ATF to help clean it out? Reason i ask is we have a bunch of cheap generic oil at work, that i can get for under $2 a qt. Also, how much oil does a dry 7.3 take?
 

Stroker#66

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Is it that dirty in side?? I bought a engine that had sat for 4 years out side and it still looked new on the insides.
 

JD3020

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Is it that dirty in side?? I bought a engine that had sat for 4 years out side and it still looked new on the insides.

Its pretty clean inside, but everything under the VC's has like a black coating on it, not quite sure what it is. But since i know nothing about the engine i'm going to play it on the safe side.
 

JD3020

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Little update. Engine is back together, missing a couple bags of bolts which have my oil pump and oil cooler bolts in em. May just have to rob those off the old engine, as i've already been robbing parts off of it. LOL All thats left at this point are those 2 things, turbo, fuel bowl, swap over accessory brackets/accessories, and it'll be ready to drop in. Which once i have the bolts, shouldn't take more than a few hours.


Once its in the truck is there a way to prime the LPO system, or just add oil and start cranking it?
 

907DAVE

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Fill the reservoir and oil galleys on either head. You could just crank the piss out of it too, but your starter won't be happy.
 

JD3020

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Fill the reservoir and oil galleys on either head. You could just crank the piss out of it too, but your starter won't be happy.

Planning on filling the reservior, if i can get the plug out. I've messed with 3 trucks/engines, and have yet to get the plug out of any of em. Even after letting them soak in Blaster. :confused:

Should also add that i'm planning on cranking it over before i drop it in to clear the cylinders. May just let it crank for a while with the GP's out to help prime it.
 

JD3020

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Like hit it with the socket in it, or just the plug itself? And if i get it out, i'm gonna go down to Napa and get a regular hex head bolt so i don't have to deal with any more stripped out plugs. LOL
 

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