Engines out, what to do

Chvyrkr · Apr 12, 2013

As far as the low pressure pump goes... Think I remember somebody smart tellin me once to pack the pump with a lightweight grease to start the suction.

When I swapped the old PMR engine out, I just lubed the LPOP with engine oil, filled the res, and cranked, refilling the res every couple key cycles. Didn't take long at all to fire.

JD3020 · Apr 13, 2013

Well i tapped on the plug like Dave said, fugger finally broke loose!

Right now all thats left is a few minor things and it'll be ready to drop in. Unfortunately i'm by myself this afternoon, and we're using a forklift on hard-packed gravel to do all the engine moving, so i doubt it'll be dropped in today. Unless of course i get brave and attempt it on my own. LOL Only real challenge by myself is trying to keep the engine from swinging while moving it around.

Also, gotta say its super freaking nice to have a Napa 20 minutes down the road that has a fully stocked hardware section, full of metric stuff unlike every other place around that has no metric. A lot nicer than having to make a 45 minute drive to Fastenal and end up having to order bolts.

bluedge8 · Apr 13, 2013

wow, I can't imagine buying fasteners from Fastenal, $$$$

JD3020 · Apr 13, 2013

bluedge8 said:
wow, I can't imagine buying fasteners from Fastenal, $$$$

Well up until a couple weeks ago i could get everything at a good price, as one of our good friends was the branch manager. Hell i got all my SS manifold hardware for under $10. But they changed some price structuring, he started losing customers, and got a better job somewhere else.

But tomorrow's plan is to be having some smokey donuts for lunch.

bluedge8 · Apr 13, 2013

Wow I really like that silver on the motor! I don't know if I said it earlier or not, as far as the oil goes, put the cheapest oil in it you can, run that oil and filter for one or two heat cycles on the motor, change it with your normal oil and filter, then change it again at 3k, then whatever your normal interval is after that. It doesn't take long to get any junk in the filter on first start up.

JD3020 · Apr 13, 2013

Yep, i got cheap oil and a filter at Napa the other day to run for tomorrow, prolly run a tank of fuel(about 250 miles), then either change just the filter as i've got a couple laying around, or switch it over to my Valvoline.

But its a unique color scheme. Red "accents", silver valley/timing cover, black manifolds, and the rest of the block is like a dark metallic gold. Not at all what i was planning on, but its how it is. LOL

bluedge8 · Apr 13, 2013

sounds like a "whats in the cabinet?" paint job LOL

JD3020 · Apr 13, 2013

:morons:

bluedge8 said:
sounds like a "whats in the cabinet?" paint job LOL

More like "the cap color doesn't match the paint color" paint job lol. I had originally planned to do red, silver, and black. I was buying the paint one day, and saw this paint that looked like a metallic graphite color, looked pretty cool. A few weeks went by, painted the block, and it was far from metallic graphite. LOL Not even close to the color on the cap, and i've got 2 cans of it. But i sorta like it, so i'm rolling with it.

JD3020 · Apr 15, 2013

Well, the engines in. But its not lining up on the trans, nor sitting right in the frame. Not sure if its an engine mount issue, or if it just needs tweaked around a little. But we ran out of time tonight, have to tackle it tomorrow.

Also, had a couple people tell me a 7.3 can't come straight up out of the engine bay. We dropped mine in fully dressed, and have a bunch of room all around going straight down in. Hood is off, and radiator and condenser are out, but thats it.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Apr 15, 2013

In the OBS pickups you can pretty much drop it strait in. The SD pickups you can not do it. I dropped my 7.3 in and had to move it back about a 1 or 2 inches to make it work.

As for the engine not lining up with the trans is the engine tipped down in the back? Did you bolt the engine in yet, or is it just sitting there? What happens is the engine without the tranny to hold the back up will sit way to low in the back. So you need to bolt the tranny to the engine then mount the tranny where it needs to go. should take care of the problem. another thing you could do is put a block under both exhaust manifolds to hold the back of the engine up where you need it.

JD3020 · Apr 15, 2013

Powerstroke Cowboy said:
In the OBS pickups you can pretty much drop it strait in. The SD pickups you can not do it. I dropped my 7.3 in and had to move it back about a 1 or 2 inches to make it work.

As for the engine not lining up with the trans is the engine tipped down in the back? Did you bolt the engine in yet, or is it just sitting there? What happens is the engine without the tranny to hold the back up will sit way to low in the back. So you need to bolt the tranny to the engine then mount the tranny where it needs to go. should take care of the problem. another thing you could do is put a block under both exhaust manifolds to hold the back of the engine up where you need it.

Trans is still in the truck, supported by a jack. Engine is just resting in the frame. But its acting like something is sitting crooked, as i had the passenger side locator pin in and could've put a bolt in, but the driver side was still off a decent bit. We're using a forklift and have prybars so we can tilt the engin, but its just not sitting right.

Currently trying to find decent pictures of the engine mounts on an engine so i can check em against mine to see if they are right. I didn't mark the mounts when i took em off, but i thought i put em on the right way but not sure. The centered mount is on the passenger side, while the offset mount is on the driverside. And the passenger side engine mount is hitting the bolts on the crossmember, not allowing it sit flat. Which i now think the offset mount should be there so it clears the bolts.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Apr 16, 2013

sounds like your mount are switch out the wrong way. I think you are on the right track to check out your mounts. You might have to slide the tranny back to do it right. If you dont you will just fight it.

Chvyrkr · Apr 16, 2013

I dropped my engine in, put a level on the HPOP res, farted around with it until it was level L-R, then tightened down the engine mounts.

Then, I got under it and bolted the trans back to it.

If I ever do it on my own again, the trans won't be anywhere under the truck until the engine is sittin pretty and level.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Apr 16, 2013

did you level the frame before putting the engine in?

Chvyrkr · Apr 16, 2013

Did I?

Yeah. Well, I verified the bumper/ends of the frame were level, and the floor was level.

JD3020 · Apr 16, 2013

My truck is on gravel so yanking the trans out will be a last resort. Just gonna have to do some digging on-line tomorrow to figure out how the mounts are oriented, and go from there. I had it damn close tonight, but something wasn't right, and i was getting pissed off. Hell at one point i was just banging the prybar against the frame then threw a radiator hose across the yard. LOL

907DAVE · Apr 16, 2013

Motor mounts should have a "L" and a "R" stamped on them, but its easy to tell the difference between the two.

Left hand motor mount has a mounting stud centered on the mount, the other towards the end. The RH mount has the studs totally centered.

My bet is this is your first "stab". If you are fighting it, alot of times its easier to thread longer bell housing bolts into the motor to help guide it into place...even if its only one side at a time. Whatever lines up jab a bolt in and move to the other side.

Dont tighten the bolts to mate everything up, just use them to guide. If you do tighten them and force it together things can break.

Good Luck!

bluedge8 · Apr 16, 2013

907DAVE said:
Motor mounts should have a "L" and a "R" stamped on them, but its easy to tell the difference between the two.

Left hand motor mount has a mounting stud centered on the mount, the other towards the end. The RH mount has the studs totally centered.

My bet is this is your first "stab". If you are fighting it, alot of times its easier to thread longer bell housing bolts into the motor to help guide it into place...even if its only one side at a time. Whatever lines up jab a bolt in and move to the other side.

Dont tighten the bolts to mate everything up, just use them to guide. If you do tighten them and force it together things can break.

Good Luck!

:whs:

300000 and counting · Apr 16, 2013

I didn't read through all 12 pages or however many there are, but you live in Ohio so I would powder coat your oil pan and have a ceramic coating put on your manifolds even tho there gona be ss

You said you wanna do 910's if it were me I would do smith brothers push rods while in was in there, I would also do the glow plugs and put new valve cover gasket in so you have good power getting inside the covers. The last thing I would consider would be arp head studs, it would be a heck of alot easy with the engine out and if you ever wanna add a bigger turbo/ injectors the arps are already in there

JD3020 · Apr 16, 2013

907DAVE said:
Motor mounts should have a "L" and a "R" stamped on them, but its easy to tell the difference between the two.

Left hand motor mount has a mounting stud centered on the mount, the other towards the end. The RH mount has the studs totally centered.

My bet is this is your first "stab". If you are fighting it, alot of times its easier to thread longer bell housing bolts into the motor to help guide it into place...even if its only one side at a time. Whatever lines up jab a bolt in and move to the other side.

Dont tighten the bolts to mate everything up, just use them to guide. If you do tighten them and force it together things can break.

Good Luck!

My truck has spent its whole life in the rust belt, if there were markings on the mounts you can't see em anymore. By RH and LH, is that from the front of the engine or the back? As it sits the centered studs are on the passenger side.

And i've thought about threading in a trans bolt, but i'm just worried about it binding up and cracking the bellhousing.

I would've loved to do ARP's, PR's, and ceramic coat everything in and out, but just buying the engine and completely re-sealing it, along with the few mods i'm doing, has broke me up. The joys of being a 19 year old college student. LOL