04 6.0 No Start. New HPOP

olyellaferd · Jan 19, 2015

Well put all new injector seals, o rail nipple cup seals in it and it started. One injector was really toasted and I'll post a picture of it here in a minute. So I had to buy one new injector but the others I was able to replace the seals and get it to build enough pressure. After I started it and it ran. It would smoke thick white smoke for awhile but do it less and less each day then about a week after I got the new seals it died on my again and now is doing the same thing and only building about 40 ICPs when cranking. Going to air test the system and am looking for any advice on air testing. I know about 140 should be able to find a big enough leak to keep it from starting but I am not sure which is the best location to do the air test at. Either the ICP Sensor on the passenger side rail or the IPR Valve. I saw the IPR Valve air test tool but couldn't tell what you used to connect your hose to the tool. Was it barbed or quick connect?

olyellaferd · Jan 19, 2015

olyellaferd · Jan 19, 2015

Update. I pulled the oil filter and held the drain plug down. The housing seemed to fill pretty quick. The oil pressure on the gauge seems to fluctuate between the top of the L and bottom of the L when cranking though it never builds to normal oil pressure while cranking. Even though the pump is good. Could the regulator still be bad and that's whats causing a no start

webb06 · Jan 19, 2015

olyellaferd said:
Well put all new injector seals, o rail nipple cup seals in it and it started. One injector was really toasted and I'll post a picture of it here in a minute. So I had to buy one new injector but the others I was able to replace the seals and get it to build enough pressure. After I started it and it ran. It would smoke thick white smoke for awhile but do it less and less each day then about a week after I got the new seals it died on my again and now is doing the same thing and only building about 40 ICPs when cranking. Going to air test the system and am looking for any advice on air testing. I know about 140 should be able to find a big enough leak to keep it from starting but I am not sure which is the best location to do the air test at. Either the ICP Sensor on the passenger side rail or the IPR Valve. I saw the IPR Valve air test tool but couldn't tell what you used to connect your hose to the tool. Was it barbed or quick connect?

I test using the icp location. Close the ipr valve with a harness I made and it'll be easy to find a leak then, if there in fact is a leak. Did you use a ford hpop when you replaced it?

olyellaferd · Jan 19, 2015

Yeah I used the HPOP from the dealership. I ordered that tool that closes the IPR valve for you and am going to buy the fittings for the icp sensor port. Then I'll air test it that way

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

K finally got around to air testing it. I put 140psi to it and heard an air leak on the drivers side so I popped the valve cover, the air tones didn't change whether I closed the IPR Valve or not. I was using the controller that you buy from otc. While air testing with the valve cover off I didn't see any visible air leaks but it sounded like the air leak was coming from farther down. Sort of in the oil pan because it sounded like it was gurgling oil down below. Again no change when I closed the IPR Valve.

webb06 · Feb 11, 2015

olyellaferd said:
K finally got around to air testing it. I put 140psi to it and heard an air leak on the drivers side so I popped the valve cover, the air tones didn't change whether I closed the IPR Valve or not. I was using the controller that you buy from otc. While air testing with the valve cover off I didn't see any visible air leaks but it sounded like the air leak was coming from farther down. Sort of in the oil pan because it sounded like it was gurgling oil down below. Again no change when I closed the IPR Valve.

If there's no change when energizing the valve then the valve is bad. Did you already replace it once?

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

yeah but I'm wondering if it got filled with dirt or something in the oil system when I had the valve covers off doing the injectors. I'll pull it out here in a minute.

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

Pulled the IPR Valve out. Hooked it to the OTC IPR Controller. Controller said it was getting 12V Input and IPR Output light was lit up and the IPR Valve did nothing.

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

K tested the IPR Controller hooked to both batteries on the 6.0 after I cleaned it out and was able to move the valve by pushing it down on a bolt, got nothing. Then I tried it on my 79 f150 that I daily drive and it still wasn't move the IPR. Is it possible it went out within the matter of like a month. I unfortunately don't have my receipt but is there anything I could do to take it down to Ford and possibly get a new one?

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

Sorry to keep carrying on with my own post but the guy at Ford said that he can go ahead and take it in and they'll do a warranty claim and if it's faulty then they will give me a replacement

webb06 · Feb 11, 2015

olyellaferd said:
Sorry to keep carrying on with my own post but the guy at Ford said that he can go ahead and take it in and they'll do a warranty claim and if it's faulty then they will give me a replacement

Did he give you one to see if it'll start? Or are they waiting to see if yours is faulty?

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

Sounds like they're waiting to see if it's faulty maybe I can see if they can at least test it there and make sure it's faulty. He said they'll send it in and I can get a new one and they'll refund me if it ends up being faulty

webb06 · Feb 11, 2015

olyellaferd said:
Sounds like they're waiting to see if it's faulty maybe I can see if they can at least test it there and make sure it's faulty. He said they'll send it in and I can get a new one and they'll refund me if it ends up being faulty

They won't test it there. I'd buy a new one and get the truck running. And get the refund when it comes back.

olyellaferd · Feb 11, 2015

I might do that. I'm not sure yet. I have a 79 to drive so I might just drive that till I find out if they are going to refund me or not unless they make me buy a new one

olyellaferd · Feb 13, 2015

Took in the IPR Valve and the guy just handed me a new one and took mine. So that was easy. Then I tried to test the new one this morning, installed it in the truck and am building 6 ICP on 84.7 IPR... so this didn't solve my problem. Could it be branch tubes? What's the symptoms for branch tubes?

webb06 · Feb 13, 2015

olyellaferd said:
Took in the IPR Valve and the guy just handed me a new one and took mine. So that was easy. Then I tried to test the new one this morning, installed it in the truck and am building 6 ICP on 84.7 IPR... so this didn't solve my problem. Could it be branch tubes? What's the symptoms for branch tubes?

Dang. Branch tubes are usually a hot start issue not a cold start.

olyellaferd · Feb 13, 2015

Found my issue. I can tell I do this too often cause A) all the bolts to get to the HPOP were still not too tight to have to use a breaker bar and B) I got to the HPOP in about 35 from fully assembled. When I put the HPOP in I put the yellow o ring on the bottom like you're supposed to but I put the discharge tube D-Ring on top of the HPOP so it disintegrated that d ring. Gonna have to pick up a new one and I should be back in business

webb06 · Feb 13, 2015

olyellaferd said:
Found my issue. I can tell I do this too often cause A) all the bolts to get to the HPOP were still not too tight to have to use a breaker bar and B) I got to the HPOP in about 35 from fully assembled. When I put the HPOP in I put the yellow o ring on the bottom like you're supposed to but I put the discharge tube D-Ring on top of the HPOP so it disintegrated that d ring. Gonna have to pick up a new one and I should be back in business

Sweet!