2006 Crew Cab

06Mud_Slut

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Car audio and troubleshooting my LPOP have got to be the biggest pains I have come across so far. I am looking for some subwoofer suggestions and whether or not to get a 5-channel amp or to not amp my door speakers altogether. And I have no idea what will fit in my crew cab; I think my only option is shallow speakers, and it's got benches front and back so no room there. What have you guys done with bench seats? Do you recommend enclosed or ported? My music is mainly Metal and some rock. I do have some dubstep but I doubt I'll need to change my setup to make that sound good. I just need a clean, crisp, accurate sub. Thanks to those who post. :thumbup:

Here is my current setup:

Kenwood KDC-HD545U
Alpine Type-R x4


Possibilities?

Apline 10in Type-R x2
Kicker 12in

Apline Amp? 300w, 900w? 4-ch? 5-ch?
 

WV Stud

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I run a ten inch JL W1 in a ported box behind my rear seat.The amp sits under the driver side of the rear seat.Then I have a alpine 4 channel running all of my factory door speakers and that amp is on the passenger side of the rear seat.

Didn't have the dime to drop on door speakers at the time but its really not needed when you push the factory ones with a amp.

I can post pics tomorrow,all of my stuff was done at the audio shop.

JL has the best subs out imo,but I know a lot of people really like the alpines.
 

06Mud_Slut

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What sort of music do you listen to? Is it a clean sounding sub? Being able to get that separation in the bass is probably my most important purchase factor. I would like to see where you have your setup if you get the time.
 

davey99ps

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I've got 2 12's behind my seat ran off of 1 amp. I'm in for more info cuz I'd like to upgrade all my door speakers an do something different amp wise. Right now my set-up sounds good, but I know it could be alot better. I listen to mainly country an rock
 

06Mud_Slut

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I've got 2 12's behind my seat ran off of 1 amp. I'm in for more info cuz I'd like to upgrade all my door speakers an do something different amp wise. Right now my set-up sounds good, but I know it could be alot better. I listen to mainly country an rock

Door speakers do make a difference. If you're not amping your stock speakers, than you can pretty much go with any aftermarket and it will make a huge difference. I went with the Aplines, it's around $110 for a set (2) of door speakers. Sounds great, but I'm definitely not using them to their full potential just running them off the head unit. So even if you amp for stockers it'll sound better.
 

WV Stud

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What sort of music do you listen to? Is it a clean sounding sub? Being able to get that separation in the bass is probably my most important purchase factor. I would like to see where you have your setup if you get the time.

I listen to mainly rock and heavy metal.I do have a bass knob so if I want to tone it down..If you have never heard a JL W1 I highly recommend you listening to one if you get the chance.I believe it is about the cheapest one JL makes and I have had 3 of them in different rides.

I use to be big into the car audio thing but this is my "family ride" lol and I wanted to keep it clean,simple and not go all out.
 

davey99ps

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Door speakers do make a difference. If you're not amping your stock speakers, than you can pretty much go with any aftermarket and it will make a huge difference. I went with the Aplines, it's around $110 for a set (2) of door speakers. Sounds great, but I'm definitely not using them to their full potential just running them off the head unit. So even if you amp for stockers it'll sound better.

I know the door speakers are the cheaper part of the system kinda. My problem is this is in my 95 in my sig, the factory speakers have seen much better days. Idk what to use for the front doors or the speakers that are in the back corner of the cab. Another thing is I'd like to upgrade to a better amp to power everything, if that's even possible. I'd rather not have a ton of wires running back an forth to multiple amps if I can at all help it. Right now my amp just powers my subs an the other speakers are ran off my head unit. It also doesn't help that I'm completely clueless about all of this. I can fab boxes an hook it all up, but when it comes to picking out the parts I need I'm lost
 

06Mud_Slut

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Yeah I'm in the same boat. From what I've been reading it seems you can run the door speakers off a 4 channel but you're gonna need a 5 channel to run the door speakers and the subs off of one amp.
 

WV Stud

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Here is my set up

Amp for sub
IMG_0450_zps0c243348.jpg


Amp for door speakers,didn't want to take the car set out but it is under there.
IMG_0452_zps2b7ccabb.jpg


IMG_0454_zpsd8319a8f.jpg


IMG_0453_zpsfec49bb9.jpg


IMG_0457_zpsbb659d9f.jpg


IMG_0458_zpsfe6949e6.jpg


IMG_0459_zps7cca1f7c.jpg
 

davey99ps

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Yeah I'm in the same boat. From what I've been reading it seems you can run the door speakers off a 4 channel but you're gonna need a 5 channel to run the door speakers and the subs off of one amp.

That's where I start getting lost, I don't know what the difference is in the # of channels, an I also don't know how to size the amp either. Personally I'm not after some super high end audio system, in fact this is the first truck I've done more than change the head unit or door speakers on. I love the way it sounds now, but I think it could be better without investing to much more in to it
 

davey99ps

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Here is my set up

Amp for sub
IMG_0450_zps0c243348.jpg


Amp for door speakers,didn't want to take the car set out but it is under there.
IMG_0452_zps2b7ccabb.jpg


IMG_0454_zpsd8319a8f.jpg


IMG_0453_zpsfec49bb9.jpg


IMG_0457_zpsbb659d9f.jpg


IMG_0458_zpsfe6949e6.jpg


IMG_0459_zps7cca1f7c.jpg

Your box is huge compared to mine. My 12's came in their own slim fit boxes, I actually am planning on building a single box an then having a spot between the 2 subs where I can mount my amp or amps.
 

WV Stud

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Got to have the correct air space or your stuff sounds like junk..Any one can build a box for a sub but if you don't have the right air space then that sub will not be preform to it's optima performance.I still need to get some carpet on it tho,looks trashy !!
 

davey99ps

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Got to have the correct air space or your stuff sounds like junk..Any one can build a box for a sub but if you don't have the right air space then that sub will not be preform to it's optima performance.I still need to get some carpet on it tho,looks trashy !!
Yea I know you need a certain amount of volume for the sub to work to it's full potential, I just questioned it cuz my 12's each came in their own pre-made box an they're alot smaller. I'd say they're roughly 15"x15" an maybe 6-8" deep. I thought they were a little on the small side, but since they came from the manufacturer that way I ASSumed they were good to go. When I do build my own box it'll be considerably bigger
 

06Mud_Slut

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I like where you mounted the bass level controller. So just one ten is enough to pump through the seats and you can hear it clearly?
 

jdc753

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Mud slut, first I want to say amping your door speakers, basically adding an amplifier to them instead of just the aftermarket HU will be equivalent to the jump going from stocker (HU and speakers) to the aftermarket HU and speakers, DO IT!!


As for the subwoofer you have 3 locations to choose from, and 90% of your sub selection will be limited to shallow mounts.


Behind the seat, shallow only, or very few conventional subs, usually 8's or some "shallower" 10's check out www.spl2k.com for some examples. If you have a power sliding rear window this will greatly limit your volume.


Under the rear seat, this will be more of a custom build, I know JL audio makes a stealth box for this location, and some audio shops have also made boxes for here, but I don't know of any readily available boxes for this spot except from JL. Mikey ran a box in this location that a local shop built for him.


Center console, sounds like you have a 40/20/40 setup, for this you can purchase a JL stealth box, build your own stealth box (907Dave built an awesome box for himself in this location, http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75756&highlight=dave ) OR if you are interested in ditching the center jump seat for a 08 center console, you can easily fit a conventional sub up to 12-13" in the center console while still maintaining a good amount of storage space.




Once you narrow down a location, then the available air space and mounting depth will dictate your subwoofer selection, then with a sub selected choose and amplifier that will properly feed that sub. Budget will be the next primary factor for all your selections.


As for boxes/subs/music selection, all subs can be made to sound good for all music, it just takes some time and careful tuning of the box. Basically a sealed box is the easiest for tuning and also to squeeze into these trucks, but the trade off is less overall output, where a ported box will have the highest overall output but can be a challenge to tune properly for the sub and the cabin.




Yea I know you need a certain amount of volume for the sub to work to it's full potential, I just questioned it cuz my 12's each came in their own pre-made box an they're alot smaller. I'd say they're roughly 15"x15" an maybe 6-8" deep. I thought they were a little on the small side, but since they came from the manufacturer that way I ASSumed they were good to go. When I do build my own box it'll be considerably bigger

He mentioned that his sub is in a ported box, generally ported boxes run double the size as their sealed counterparts.
 

06Mud_Slut

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Thanks JDC for all the info. Definitely going to go ahead and order an amp for the door speakers now. I think it'll be cheaper to have 2 amps than 1 that powers both anyway. And I have no sliding back window so that's probably where I'll put it. And would you say an unported 12in sub is the same or better than a ported 10in. Also in that regard would you say two is better than one in either size? (2 10's VS 1 12in?)
 

06Mud_Slut

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I feel like a 13in sub would be too much for my cab. Or it will give me a muddy sound. What is your experience with it?
 

jdc753

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I feel like a 13in sub would be too much for my cab. Or it will give me a muddy sound. What is your experience with it?

No... just no, size of the sub does not dictate clarity, that is a old wives tale, or may have applied years ago. Yes the cone is heavier and moving more air so by physics it does seem plausible, but in the proper box and proper power it isn't truth. Especially for the JL shallow 13". Those goes along the same lines as a sealed box is for sound quality and a ported box is for SPL competition.

Key to tighter sound is the box, a smaller box acts as a tighter spring on the woofer increasing power handling (to over come that spring) and decreasing low end output. Conversely a large box will improve low end response as it is a "loose spring" and increase overall output but decrease power handling.

I believe the closest spec to be looked into for a sub to be "muddy" is the Le which I believe is a measure of the subs transient response or motor strength (I forget)

But the JL shallow really is a top notch sub just a tad pricey, but if the budget is good for you then it really is a top notch option to squeeze bass into these tight trucks.
 

06Mud_Slut

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Great! Well thanks for the info. I will take a closer look at those and kinda weigh my options with what amps to run now. :thumbup:
 

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