205cc\100 + s366 = ? and my build

[slim613]

:fordoval:

first off just wanna say im the new guy here at PSA
its my daily driver and i tow light and heavy loads grose 36k max but want the power to have it when i need it for all

so what iv heard and looked into
s366 + 238\100 = too much backpreasure and needs to be gated, correct? gated= extra $850 for that just move up to the s468, correct?

^^^thats what whites diesel performace said a BIG NO!!

then i talked to matt at irate i think and he said go with the 238\100 and the s366 said he had the set up on his truck might detune the 238\100for back preasure reasons

iv thought about the 468 but i think im runnin out of my budget with the 468 and 238\100 together but im good with the s366

id like yall imput on it and the build

my block is at the machine shop getting its work done heads will soon be there as well now as a list of mods

Ford rebuild kit .020 over (ceramic coated pistons)

S366 turbo kit t4 mount (includes all piping, clamps, lines, hardware, downpipe, and intake system)

Gearhead stage 1 cam (Ive spoke with them they said with everything else im doing I should expect 50-75hp gains from the cam and lower EGTs) IF YOU HAVE MORE INFO IN THIS PLEASE POST UP!!! HEARD ALSO LOW BOTTOM IN BUT 50HP ON TOP END?

TS CHIP GEARHEAD custom tuning (live tuning will come eventually after break in and so on)

910 comp cam valve springs

0.030 valve shims

.120 pushrods

port n polish heads

ARP head and (main?)

terminator 500 HPOP

forged cryo'd rods

custom regulated fuel system, fuel bowl delete with baldwin spin on and water seperator filters

harpoon and sump

i have gauges and will be adding lots more
and bts trannie

 

[uw mitch]

I'm a noob on here so take it fwiw. With all the time and money you're putting into this engine build up are you seriously sweating the cost difference between two turbos? If the 468 is the right one for the power and reliability profile you're going for why not save a few more months? Sounds like you're going to have an amazing build!

Mitch

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[rustbucket]

The 468 takes a little bit to spool, for a good all around setup i would go with the 366. It will spool way faster and make it easier to tow. But i would recommend gating it, you can tune it to bring down drive pressure but it will have to be tuned close to factory injectors. No fun in that.

 

[slim613]

but with s468 shouldnt i need better rods as well? i could be wrong thats what iv heard = windows but some of this is from like one person hearing stuff so i came to yall for the fine tuning, but im also not lookin at 600+ hp im happy with what ever my build gives me but want the parts to match and smarter instead of like iv heard with the back preasure issues on 238\100 and s366 and just having issues later after its built

and thanks should be ready in a few months

 

[slim613]

The 468 takes a little bit to spool, for a good all around setup i would go with the 366. It will spool way faster and make it easier to tow. But i would recommend gating it, you can tune it to bring down drive pressure but it will have to be tuned close to factory injectors. No fun in that.

thanks for ur input thats exactly the info im looking for, the knowledge :thumbup:

 

[uw mitch]

What about irates BASB? Like an s366 but more cfm and better spoil is what I've read.

Mitch

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[ghohouston]

if your motor has pmr's and not forged rods, then yeah its probably a good idea to swap rods while the pistons are out of the block. and honestly, if you werent doing a full rebuild, most of your parts are completely unnecessary for such small injectors. plenty of people run bigger injectors than those without studs, springs, pushrods, etc... i had 238/100's and a 38r with gearhead tuning on an e99 motor with forged rods, no head studs, no upgraded valve springs or push rods, stock 17 degree hpop, stock fuel pump, etc, and ran great, drove over 60 miles daily 6 days a week, and life wasnt easy for that truck, but never broke anything on the engine. i would put more money towards the bts, and a tru trac. the two major things i broke on my truck was the tranny and the rear end

 

[slim613]

What about irates BASB? Like an s366 but more cfm and better spoil is what I've read.

Mitch

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2

never even heard of it

 

[slim613]

if your motor has pmr's and not forged rods, then yeah its probably a good idea to swap rods while the pistons are out of the block. and honestly, if you werent doing a full rebuild, most of your parts are completely unnecessary for such small injectors. plenty of people run bigger injectors than those without studs, springs, pushrods, etc... i had 238/100's and a 38r with gearhead tuning on an e99 motor with forged rods, no head studs, no upgraded valve springs or push rods, stock 17 degree hpop, stock fuel pump, etc, and ran great, drove over 60 miles daily 6 days a week, and life wasnt easy for that truck, but never broke anything on the engine. i would put more money towards the bts, and a tru trac. the two major things i broke on my truck was the tranny and the rear end

02 truck the engine in it now has a 01 with PMR's the other engine i bought because i have wrist pin issues (they have been HOT are 2 are blue from heat stress like a piston cooling jet broke in my 02 now) so i bought a engine and fugured id build its internals im adding forged i have a set but plan on puttin im my 02 in my mudd truck OBS with rockwells axels
and i wanted to build it so it did have to come out again or need head work reason for the work im doin i just want her all new and improved and insureance kinda i hope that makes since rather be over built then under

 

[slim613]

if your motor has pmr's and not forged rods, then yeah its probably a good idea to swap rods while the pistons are out of the block. and honestly, if you werent doing a full rebuild, most of your parts are completely unnecessary for such small injectors. plenty of people run bigger injectors than those without studs, springs, pushrods, etc... i had 238/100's and a 38r with gearhead tuning on an e99 motor with forged rods, no head studs, no upgraded valve springs or push rods, stock 17 degree hpop, stock fuel pump, etc, and ran great, drove over 60 miles daily 6 days a week, and life wasnt easy for that truck, but never broke anything on the engine. i would put more money towards the bts, and a tru trac. the two major things i broke on my truck was the tranny and the rear end

valve springs and pushrods are because of stage one cam to run it i have to have those

45psi of boost so im studding it

 

[rustbucket]

^^^ also a good point. 238/100 and a s366 will not be friendly to your trans, do you have a stick or auto? And as for as your rods go the rods you chose well be fine . They'll handle 500hp daily driver no problem. Some guys make 600+ on stock bottom ends in limited applications.

 

[ghohouston]

valve springs and pushrods are because of stage one cam to run it i have to have those

45psi of boost so im studding it

youre right, i initially missed where you were installing a gearhead cam. and im not trying to discourage you, i think you are going about this the right way, i was just making sure you understood with that small of injectors, alot of these things werent necessary. fwiw, if this was my build, and i was putting all that money into "bullet proofing" the motor, i would have chose ALOT bigger injectors

 

[slim613]

^^^ also a good point. 238/100 and a s366 will not be friendly to your trans, do you have a stick or auto? And as for as your rods go the rods you chose well be fine . They'll handle 500hp daily driver no problem. Some guys make 600+ on stock bottom ends in limited applications.

4r100 BTS

 

[slim613]

youre right, i initially missed where you were installing a gearhead cam. and im not trying to discourage you, i think you are going about this the right way, i was just making sure you understood with that small of injectors, alot of these things werent necessary. fwiw, if this was my build, and i was putting all that money into "bullet proofing" the motor, i would have chose ALOT bigger injectors

they saw the cam works best at 650+ but gearhead said it would let more air flow but idk if they could just be trying to sell a cam or not BUT the cam is also not that popular as well reason i posted also for more cam info

so best build would be 468 and 238\100 but then u say s366 would be great for towing BUT then again 238\100 will kill a s366 hard verdict lol

 

[rustbucket]

It should be an awesome setup.

 

[ghohouston]

i would also go with a better turbo than a s366. i also think the cam is a good idea. im not sure on any hp/torque improvements, but it damn sure will lower your egt's and should help you spool whatever turbo you chose quicker

 

[slim613]

i would also go with a better turbo than a s366. i also think the cam is a good idea. im not sure on any hp/torque improvements, but it damn sure will lower your egt's and should help you spool whatever turbo you chose quicker

so better turbo? give me some ideas if ya dont mind

and ya egt's are a must of what im lookin for also and i hope, there was a guy on Facebook of all places i guess he deals with them and said lower bottom but 50hp top in increase BUT know nothing about that build


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[slim613]

what i dug out kf the engine i bought


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[rustbucket]

they saw the cam works best at 650+ but gearhead said it would let more air flow but idk if they could just be trying to sell a cam or not BUT the cam is also not that popular as well reason i posted also for more cam info

so best build would be 468 and 238\100 but then u say s366 would be great for towing BUT then again 238\100 will kill a s366 hard verdict lol

the guys at gearhead are standup and they wouldnt BS you to make a sell. And it comes down to your future goals for the truck. Are you ever going to build it bigger, maybe not tow so much? You can buy a bigger injector and detune it and only buy injectors once. You can get the s468 and not have to buy a turbo later on if you want more power. You'll have to change the way you drive with your new setup and learn how likes to be run.

 

[97stoker350]

You won't be upset with the 468 spoolup. I run one with 40s and a stick shift it's not bad at all. Even if your unhappy talk to your tuner and have him move up shift points on ur tow tune. And hp is not wat throws rods... Torque is, low end torque chucks them