4x4 van conversion

rpm-inc

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Started a thread a while back on psn, and finally got some more work done. I am using front and rear axles from an 05 F-250.

I want the van to look as stock as possible, so need it at stockish ride height. Which required hacking the hell out of the crossmember.
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Got the crossmember back together with 3/16 plate. I tacked it all up, and had a buddy come over with a gasoline powered stick welder. Not my first choice, but couldnt bring the van anywhere else very easily.
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A different friend helped me with the 4 link arms.

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Somehow or another today, I cut them too short before I tacked the tube adapters in!:doh: So will have to weld new tubes on 2 of them. Finally making progress. Let me know what you think so far.

012.jpg
 

Dzchey21

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only thing i would be worried about is that cross member but it looks like you probably have it under control


Why going with a stock height van? I like the way 4wd vans sit, they got a little hieght to them but nothing terrible
 

rpm-inc

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I want it to look stock and rip off some low 11's (hopefully). I think the crossmember is strong enough. It is reinforced underneath as well. Here is with no cutting.

003.jpg
 

Dzchey21

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damn... 11's in a van.. awesome

After comparing it looks like your crossmember should be stout enough
 

rpm-inc

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Can anyone verify with absolute certainty that an 05 f250 pitman arm taper is 1.5" per foot? The reamer I bought is supposedly 1.5 inch per foot or 7.15 degrees. It was new from ebay, but didn't come in a box, and there is no markings on it. It's not working and I'm on my second pitman arm. Holding the reamer over the ball joint, you can see that the reamer has more taper.
 

rpm-inc

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Is it closer to stock height in the front now?

It's about 3/4" higher than my other van. This pic is with the bottom arms all the way out and the axle needing to go another inch forward which is why I need to lengthen them.
013.jpg
 
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rpm-inc

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Got the tracbar and draglink half ass mocked up.
003-2.jpg



I am 99% sure that the pitman arm taper is 1.5" per foot and I was sold the wrong reamer.

This is why the draglink won't drop all the way in. When I do get the pitman arm tapered correctly, you can see there may be some clearance issues to the tracbar. It has to drop in about another quarter inch, but the pitman arm also has to go onto the shaft about another quarter. I didn't want to torque it on only to have to take it off again.

004-1.jpg


What is the pitman arm material? Just cast iron? If I can't get enough clearance cutting some of the threads off, can I heat it and bend it straight? Don't know if that would affect strength or not. It has a slight drop to it.
 

bbbxcursion

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I think they're forged. Did you run this past Arne? Maybe he has some ideas, or knows someone..
 

rpm-inc

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I gotta stop by the shop later today to drop off the arms to get fixed. I'll see what the guys have to say.
 

Tom S

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How about a slight bend the the track bar to gain some clearance?
 

rpm-inc

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How about a slight bend the the track bar to gain some clearance?

That sounds hard...:axe:

Looks like people have successfully heated to a dull cherry red, smashed flat in a press, then cool slowly in kitty litter or sand. May give that a shot.

Anybody have dimensions for a stock superduty pitman arm? Drop, center to center, and splined hole size? If the picture is accurate on napas site, it looks like it may have a little less drop.

It may very well work the way it is, though.
 

Tom S

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That track bar would bend easy in a hydraulic bender. I used one to put a slight bend in my traction bars and that was .25 DOM tube. The trick I used was to have them tightly packed with wet sand so that is did get the idea to kink. Just a couple degrees would give you some clearance.
 

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