6.0 oil rail standpipes breaking

webb06 · Nov 6, 2015

Here within the last 2-3 months we have had 6 of the oil rail standpipes break, 4 of which were fresh off the shelf from Ford dealer. Attempted to separate them at the middle connection and the casting on the check valve side literally cracked in half.

2 of them were installed in a truck that our shop did headgaskets on roughly 2 months ago and it came back in this week with a real erratic running condition when revved about 1200 rpm. found the ICP voltage was also really erratic at the same rpm. ended up removing the stand pipes and both of them were broken as well.

just curious if anyone else in the 6.0 repair business is seeing this. our Ford dealer has warrantied all the broken pipes but says we are the only ones reporting anything to them.

seems like a very strange problem to me.

looking for any insight into this problem!

78f100 · Nov 6, 2015

I have had 4 so far broke, none were installed by us. When I removed them they were broke. I did have o e new one broke in the package when I unwrapped it.

webb06 · Nov 6, 2015

78f100 said:
I have had 4 so far broke, none were installed by us. When I removed them they were broke. I did have o e new one broke in the package when I unwrapped it.

glad, but not glad, to hear we aren't the only ones seeing this. were the broken ones you removed the updated style? were they causing any driveability concerns with the truck?

DEEZUZ · Nov 8, 2015

Have heard of this also, but never had it happen first hand.

Are you wiggling them to separate them upon install? I pull them straight apart and haven't had an issue. Probably install 4 sets a week. Also been having a few injector warranties where we just reseal the pipes rather than install, so they are torqued numerous times

webb06 · Nov 8, 2015

CTC DEEZUL said:
Have heard of this also, but never had it happen first hand.

Are you wiggling them to separate them upon install? I pull them straight apart and haven't had an issue. Probably install 4 sets a week. Also been having a few injector warranties where we just reseal the pipes rather than install, so they are torqued numerous times

Pull and wiggle, but a casting like that shouldn't just fall apart in my hands or come out of a sealed package already broken.

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wiseguy · Nov 8, 2015

pdumont01 · Nov 8, 2015

This is the first time I ever heard of that happening.

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webb06 · Nov 8, 2015

wiseguy said:
pic?

I'll have to get some tomorrow.

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AirFishAutomotive · Nov 8, 2015

We have had a set of them come new in the package broken before, have not had any we installed come back

As far as ford and how many people have had the same problem hard to tell if they just make up a random number to tell you, we were supposedly only the 3rd shop in the country to ever have a 6.4 rocker bridge come in and be the wrong thickness causing to much pressure on the valves when torqued down

sideactiondiesel · Nov 8, 2015

Yep seen it quite a bit. The **** that gets put out there now days:fustrate:

It's a shame it seems like ppl just don't care anymore .

webb06 · Nov 9, 2015

Called our local international dealer, they've also seen a few broken.

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6speedsd · Nov 13, 2015

Sort of makes you think they start dropping material quality in an effort to phase out an older engine. If parts become more and more problematic, people will just stop fixing the thing.

Either that, or the initial huge cash flow Ford made off this engine has subsided, and now they are looking for ways to make their next fortune off of us.

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IHPowerstroke7.3 · Nov 15, 2015

Something I'll have to keep my eye on. Been changing lots of these lately, especially on e-series. Don't want to be redoing them!

Bustedknuckles · Nov 15, 2015

IHPowerstroke7.3 said:
Something I'll have to keep my eye on. Been changing lots of these lately, especially on e-series. Don't want to be redoing them!

How do you do them? Drop the engine, pull the body or pull the engine? Got 1 to do next week...

webb06 · Nov 15, 2015

Bustedknuckles said:
How do you do them? Drop the engine, pull the body or pull the engine? Got 1 to do next week...

Remove the engine mounts, both sides, and lower the engine down. Then you can get both valve covers off relatively easily

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Bustedknuckles · Nov 15, 2015

webb06 said:
Remove the engine mounts, both sides, and lower the engine down. Then you can get both valve covers off relatively easily

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What about pulling the body? Thats what we were going to do, or is that way more unnecessary work?

webb06 · Nov 15, 2015

Bustedknuckles said:
What about pulling the body? Thats what we were going to do, or is that way more unnecessary work?

Wasn't sure if it was an ambulance or school bus type body. Never pulled a body on the van type. Seems like that would be more work than removing the engine mounts. Especially if it's full of inside storage cabinets or tools.

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Bustedknuckles · Nov 15, 2015

webb06 said:
Wasn't sure if it was an ambulance or school bus type body. Never pulled a body on the van type. Seems like that would be more work than removing the engine mounts. Especially if it's full of inside storage cabinets or tools.

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Its a passenger van, i think I'm going to pull the body just because it should be interesting. If its too much work ill just pull the motor mounts in the future.

pdumont01 · Nov 15, 2015

I always remove the mount

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pdumont01 · Nov 16, 2015

Well not really the whole mount, just the plate between the mount and the block 8 13mm bolts and slide plate out and lower all the way. Gives enough room to get pass side off no problem.

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