Layson
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Whoa.....LOL
7.3 Low Oil Pressure on Rebuild
- Thread starter Black 02
- Start date
Whoa.....LOL
an honest question... I don't know where that dirtbag is these days.
Speaking of dirtbags, whats the difference between a hoover and a harley? You can only fit one dirtbag on the hoover. LOL
Black 02
New member
Under the cam gear, are those the two oil plugs in the front of the engine. I was told there are two threaded plugs in the front and two pressed in plugs in the back.
It looks like the plugs are in the front. I found this picture while fixing some mechanic screw ups.
Is that the two plugs?
Anyone see anything else in the front that looks bad (besides the shotty weld on the cam gear)? Maybe I won't have to pull the front cover after I pull the engine. This picture was before I ever started the engine.
It looks like the plugs are in the front. I found this picture while fixing some mechanic screw ups.
Is that the two plugs?
Anyone see anything else in the front that looks bad (besides the shotty weld on the cam gear)? Maybe I won't have to pull the front cover after I pull the engine. This picture was before I ever started the engine.
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It looks like the front oil galley plugs are in as you can see them under the gear. Did you check the rear as well. I have wondered if their is any reason to not tap those rear ones and put threaded plugs in. In fact for most of those I had always thought if it would not give a bit more security to tap and use threaded plugs. Maybe there is good reason not to on some I am not sure.
Throw a pic of the rear up so we can see if the rear ones are in if you want.
Here is a pic for reference on the rear:
Also do you know if he welded the oil pickup on so its not an issue down the road. What about the oil jets did they get a weld?
Not sure if you want to be pulling the pan and or what all you went over it before hand but if you have it pulled now............ Would suck in 25K to find a bent cooling jet tube falling out when you drain the oil.
Throw a pic of the rear up so we can see if the rear ones are in if you want.
Here is a pic for reference on the rear:
Also do you know if he welded the oil pickup on so its not an issue down the road. What about the oil jets did they get a weld?
Not sure if you want to be pulling the pan and or what all you went over it before hand but if you have it pulled now............ Would suck in 25K to find a bent cooling jet tube falling out when you drain the oil.
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Wouldnt the pan be off if the front cover is Tarm?
While you have the thing apart make sure that tone ring on the cam gear is on and none of the notches are bent or anything. Otherwise you can have cps issues. Just another headache you dont need.
I think Tim(tarm) made a good point about seeing if you can tap those galley plugs.
While you have the thing apart make sure that tone ring on the cam gear is on and none of the notches are bent or anything. Otherwise you can have cps issues. Just another headache you dont need.
I think Tim(tarm) made a good point about seeing if you can tap those galley plugs.
Black 02
New member
Let me clarify a couple things.
The picture I posted was before the engine was put in the truck. It had never been ran in that picture. I was looking through old pics and found that one. The reason I posted it is that maybe I won't need to pull the front cover. It looks like the plugs are in the front.
I'm debating now about just pulling the transmission and removing the rear cover instead of pulling the entire engine. Transmission is much easier in my opinion. Can you remove the rear cover and main seal without dropping the pan??? I used the Moroso pan gasket, so that might help things.
How does the rear main seal work? If I pull the bolts out of the rear cover, can I pull the cover off with the seal? Can I then just put the cover back on with the newish seal that has 30 min on it? Or, do I need a new rear main seal???
The crank is fine. It's just the light.
I used Riffraff welded piston jets. They have been verified.
The picture I posted was before the engine was put in the truck. It had never been ran in that picture. I was looking through old pics and found that one. The reason I posted it is that maybe I won't need to pull the front cover. It looks like the plugs are in the front.
I'm debating now about just pulling the transmission and removing the rear cover instead of pulling the entire engine. Transmission is much easier in my opinion. Can you remove the rear cover and main seal without dropping the pan??? I used the Moroso pan gasket, so that might help things.
How does the rear main seal work? If I pull the bolts out of the rear cover, can I pull the cover off with the seal? Can I then just put the cover back on with the newish seal that has 30 min on it? Or, do I need a new rear main seal???
The crank is fine. It's just the light.
I used Riffraff welded piston jets. They have been verified.
Ok I thought you got pissed off and end up pulling the damn thing out. I was kind of surprised but OK if its out then.....
I think you would want to pull the engine to do the rear cover and seal.
I would first dig into that LPOP and see whats up first.
I think you would want to pull the engine to do the rear cover and seal.
I would first dig into that LPOP and see whats up first.
powerstrokenstang
New member
Talkin about cooling jets is that just sd thing? Cause ive had obs ones get mangled and not break from engines blowing up. But i did put sd ones in the current build and didn weld em.
Black 02
New member
Passenger side oil rail plug missing.
I'm have the worst f-ing engine build ever. I can't tell you how much this pisses me off.
Just dog **** assembly for a ****load of $$$$$$$.
I could have been Ray Charles and done a better job.
I'm have the worst f-ing engine build ever. I can't tell you how much this pisses me off.
Just dog **** assembly for a ****load of $$$$$$$.
I could have been Ray Charles and done a better job.
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I am surprised it ran OK according to you with that rail plug out. I would have thought it would have run like crap and certainly IPR% would have been high. But I guess that answers why the HPOP Res was draining.
Hey well at least it was something that did not take pulling the engine. I sure hope this was just stuff that was missed at the very end etc maybe trying to button it up quickly to get it out to you and it does not carry over to the quality of the work say with the install of things such as the bearings, cam etc.
My tally of what has been missed or done incorrect so far is:
* Improperly installed freeze plug (serious)
* Did not install passenger side oil rail plug (serious)
* Anti-drain back check valve o-ring not replaced (minor)
* Oil dripping from front seal (LPOP/harmonic balancer)
On that last one above have you wiped it down and checked it again after its been running to see if more oil appears? If it were me as you already have some stuff pulled off maybe go ahead and address what I would guess is a seal leak if it still seeping. Otherwise that would be something that would bug me every time I saw the oil spot on my driveway or garage floor.
Black 02
New member
Sorry TARM, my bad.
Oil galley plug behind the rear cover. Next to the cam bearing. 1/2" diameter plug.
I was seeing red and didn't type the right plug.
I pulled the transmission and the rear cover.
The HPOP reservoir was not draining down.
I'll pull the Melling off tomorrow as well just because.
I have a list of things done incorrectly that will make you shake your head in amazement of the lack of care. Totally unprofessional job.
I'll post up the entire list of things done wrong and post pictures. CSIPSD has seen a pic of some of the crap pulled on me. Luckly I'm kinda mechanically inclined and can spot the BS.
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OK that makes more sense but crap you have to pull the rear cover. That just sucks. Whether you are mech inclined or not this is not as if you did not pay for the work to be done. What I am sure was a crap load of money and you have had to fix things that just should never have gotten out of the shop. One you can write off but all that stuff. No way. You should put the guys/shops name out so people know to steer clear even if he does only local stuff you never know who comes on this board.
Honestly with all the crap and the PITA it can be it would make me seriously consider settting up a basic engine test stand. That way you could run the engine get it all warmed up and check everything out for crap like this. When you consider the cost of a well built 7.3 perf engine its not much bet a drop in the bucket
Honestly with all the crap and the PITA it can be it would make me seriously consider settting up a basic engine test stand. That way you could run the engine get it all warmed up and check everything out for crap like this. When you consider the cost of a well built 7.3 perf engine its not much bet a drop in the bucket
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My lpop would develop a drip of oil when I drove it more than five miles when I first ran it. Everything was tight and done correctly. After a few heat cycles it stopped.
spongebob915
New member
JD3020
Active member
I believe so. The ones in my current engine(late 97 build) were brazed from the factory, so i never touched them. But it seems like the newer engines just had pressed in jets.
To the OP, i hate to read stuff like this. We've had several bad dealings with shops screwing stuff up several times and costing us a lot of time and money. Anymore i refuse to let a shop work on anything, if its going to get half-assed i'll do half-ass it myself for free.
I'd keep detailed records and pictures of everything, and maybe you'd be able to take him to court to recoup some of the money?
