7.3 Low Oil Pressure on Rebuild

Magnum PD

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One reason why I ran my engine on stand. One thing that concerns me is, I lost a lot oil till the time I was ready to put engine in. Different losses from turbo line and such. Burned some one first start also.
 

Black 02

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Well, I just wanted to update you guys.

Got the truck back together after losing the right lifter oil galley cup plug (not rail plug in head).

Fired the truck up and it instantly ran smoother. Left the mechanical gauge hooked up and it had about 100 psi cold at idle and 50 psi hot at idle now. That's with a new Melling pump. Fixed the leak at the LPOP. Engine builder clown had overspray paint on the sealing surface. :fustrate:

The only thing that concerned me was that after firing it up, it leaked about a silver dollar size spot out of the header/up-pipe joint on the driver's side. My initial instinct is that maybe an injector o-ring is screwed up and caused a little oil to leak into the cylinder and our the exhaust. It hasn't done it sense. I've drove it about 50 miles so far.

I've kept an eye on the oil level. It's been steady. My PMR motor lost a couple O-rings and it puked about a gallon into the fuel system in about 25 miles. It's harder to tell with the regulated return. The factory fuel bowl was nice to check for oil.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? I don't want to drive it too much, but I also want to see if there is actually a problem. Wanted to get a few miles on it.

All in all the truck runs strong. Haven't fully stood on it, but it definitely comes alive. Been trying to vary the RPM's for break-in.

This morning I started it and it instantly blew the oil filter o-ring out and puked about 2 gallons of oil on the ground. Hopefully my dad just went too fast installing the filter. It was loose when it blew. Put a new filter on it and drove away.

Nothing can go smoothly for me.
 

isootmypants

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Well, I just wanted to update you guys.

Got the truck back together after losing the right lifter oil galley cup plug (not rail plug in head).

Fired the truck up and it instantly ran smoother. Left the mechanical gauge hooked up and it had about 100 psi cold at idle and 50 psi hot at idle now. That's with a new Melling pump. Fixed the leak at the LPOP. Engine builder clown had overspray paint on the sealing surface. :fustrate:

The only thing that concerned me was that after firing it up, it leaked about a silver dollar size spot out of the header/up-pipe joint on the driver's side. My initial instinct is that maybe an injector o-ring is screwed up and caused a little oil to leak into the cylinder and our the exhaust. It hasn't done it sense. I've drove it about 50 miles so far.

I've kept an eye on the oil level. It's been steady. My PMR motor lost a couple O-rings and it puked about a gallon into the fuel system in about 25 miles. It's harder to tell with the regulated return. The factory fuel bowl was nice to check for oil.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? I don't want to drive it too much, but I also want to see if there is actually a problem. Wanted to get a few miles on it.

All in all the truck runs strong. Haven't fully stood on it, but it definitely comes alive. Been trying to vary the RPM's for break-in.

This morning I started it and it instantly blew the oil filter o-ring out and puked about 2 gallons of oil on the ground. Hopefully my dad just went too fast installing the filter. It was loose when it blew. Put a new filter on it and drove away.

Nothing can go smoothly for me.


Did you have the injectors out at all? That will cause oil to sit in the exhaust then leak out between uppipe and header
 

Black 02

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Did you have the injectors out at all? That will cause oil to sit in the exhaust then leak out between uppipe and header

I did take them out before the engine ran originally, but I did not take them out since the engine has been fired.

It is possible I didn't get one completely seated. I've done it multiple times and I tapped them with a dead blow to seat them. Should be ok. Can't rule 100% out that I didn't botch one.

It hasn't used any engine oil since and it hasn't dripped out since. Who knows.

Just a little bluish smoke on startup then a slight haze. First time I step on it, a puff of blue.
 

isootmypants

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I did take them out before the engine ran originally, but I did not take them out since the engine has been fired.

It is possible I didn't get one completely seated. I've done it multiple times and I tapped them with a dead blow to seat them. Should be ok. Can't rule 100% out that I didn't botch one.

It hasn't used any engine oil since and it hasn't dripped out since. Who knows.

Just a little bluish smoke on startup then a slight haze. First time I step on it, a puff of blue.

Every time you step on it it puffs blue or just when you first hit the throttle during your drive? It shouldn't puff blue EVERYTIME you get on the throttle. Install the injectors dry? Tuning can also play a part in blue haze. My 300/200 and swamps tunes would puff blue while cruising on the highway. I'd coast for a few hundred feet then as soon as I gave it throttle it would kinda shudder and puff like it loaded up then be fine
 

Black 02

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Every time you step on it it puffs blue or just when you first hit the throttle during your drive? It shouldn't puff blue EVERYTIME you get on the throttle. Install the injectors dry? Tuning can also play a part in blue haze. My 300/200 and swamps tunes would puff blue while cruising on the highway. I'd coast for a few hundred feet then as soon as I gave it throttle it would kinda shudder and puff like it loaded up then be fine

No, I rubbed new engine oil all over them before putting them in the hole.

The motor only had like 50 miles on it now, so we'll see. I just don't want to screw anything up. I've spent too much money.
 

TyCorr

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Pretty tough to do with a truck that doesnt run right.

Its possible the 100 psi of oil pressure is pushing oil past the seals in the turbo. You should have the oil out of everything already from the new engine install. That crap coming out of the exhaust with ooilin it is usually only pertinent to guys doing injector swaps. A new engine doesnt leak oil anywhere since the injectors go in prior to initial startup.

Good luck OP.
 

TARM

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I am with Ty on this about the high oil pressure.

I thought the reg in the filter section of the oil cooler waz suppose to keep peak pressure limited lower than that. 75-80psi cold? Even the bit extra the melling puts out I would not think could overwhelm it. The Its also not exactly cold out.

My oil psi does not hit those levels and I am running a melling. I am running Schaeffer 9k 5w40 so its going to be lower but still 100 psi sure seems high. Maybe others see these pressures.

I know how just having too large oil feed orifice to the ball bearing turbos can have oil blowing oil out the seals at factory oil psi

Is it possible 100 psi maybe dumping oil into the intake side of things?

Maybe the rings still needing to fully seat could contribute as well?
 

CSIPSD

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I see mid 80psi on fresh cold oil sometimes. Most times its 50psi at cold start, leveling down to 25-28psi...
 

TARM

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100 sure does seem high. I do not have a great deal of experience with messing with the pressure valve but that is where I would think to check first to see if its operating correctly.

Where are you measuring that 100 psi anyways? Not in the top of the HPOP res I would think.
 

Charles

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Don't know what the OP is doing, but one thing to keep in mind is if you're dumping your IPR spill oil back to the reservoir instead of down the front cover, that will run your cold lube oil pressure through the roof as you drive off with converter unlocked. When dumping back to the reservoir I would recommend an external regulator, like a simple fuel pressure reg on the spill line that dumps excess to the pan. Then just set the reg at like 60 or so.
 

TARM

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Charles I recall you talking about that with the Stealth you ran when it was going back to the res. You were hitting 100 PSI cold or something like that correct? Hoping the front cover held LOL
 
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Don't know what the OP is doing, but one thing to keep in mind is if you're dumping your IPR spill oil back to the reservoir instead of down the front cover, that will run your cold lube oil pressure through the roof as you drive off with converter unlocked. When dumping back to the reservoir I would recommend an external regulator, like a simple fuel pressure reg on the spill line that dumps excess to the pan. Then just set the reg at like 60 or so.
Where do the gen 3 style setups dump the spill oil? It would be the same as stock I would guess since it uses the stock location ipr to regulate pressure. So where does the stock pump dump the spill oil?
 

m j

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it does a loop up to the top of the rez and then 180s down to the crankcase stock
sounds like some big oil guys return it to the rez
I am curious about the swamps gen3 as it looks to use a tiny rez
 

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