I didnt do a compressed air/soapy solution test yet - next on my list. But I did examine all exhaust connections and they look sealed to me as there is no soot evident. I've punched it here and there and boost reached about 25psi. I imagine thats all I'll see on a stock tune. Yeah I've been hesitant to tow heavy. My trailer is 9k dry. But I did pull my kids 92 F150 up a steep hill several times to load it a bit. I felt when the rings started to seat as power improved quite a bit, followed by faster starts and less blow-by. Was I correct about the WG setting on the 38R?
7.3 Rebuild (and build-up)
- Thread starter vr6nutt
- Start date
I didnt do a compressed air/soapy solution test yet - next on my list. But I did examine all exhaust connections and they look sealed to me as there is no soot evident. I've punched it here and there and boost reached about 25psi. I imagine thats all I'll see on a stock tune. Yeah I've been hesitant to tow heavy. My trailer is 9k dry. But I did pull my kids 92 F150 up a steep hill several times to load it a bit. I felt when the rings started to seat as power improved quite a bit, followed by faster starts and less blow-by. Was I correct about the WG setting on the 38R?
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
you can tighten down the gate as tight as you can. you dont have the red line hooked up do you?
you and me both bud.
live life full throttle
Just removed the red and green lines. Found it leaking at the rubber fittings, plugged the openings with rubber caps.. Also found some minor leaks at the CAC boots. Going to do a long drive today...we'll see how it does.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
After adjusting/re-tightening CAC boots, EGT's seem better. Is there any difference between leaving red line capped vs removing both red/green all together?
Anyone run this?
http://www.dieselsite.com/19995-2003ford73lpsdwastegatecontroller.aspx
Been reading good stuff about it.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
really no need on a 38r. besides, you can crank the rod in and out if needed.. it does make it easier with the diesel site rod but one can be made just as easy... leave the green line hooked up but leave the red line off and plug it..
live life full throttle
Dmstrucks02
New member
I was wondering the same thing, I remember messing with mine and it didn't change a thing
Diesel site actuator now. ..
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Vader's Fury
Active member
If the actuator is cranked all the way down, the red line will not affect anything connected or not.
All the red line does is apply a little bit of boost pressure to the diaphragm when the computer wants the wastegate to open. With the actuator rod cranked all the way down, the wastegate can not open, so the line does nothing.
The only benefit I see to capping it off, is if your actuator is leaking when boost is applied.
All the red line does is apply a little bit of boost pressure to the diaphragm when the computer wants the wastegate to open. With the actuator rod cranked all the way down, the wastegate can not open, so the line does nothing.
The only benefit I see to capping it off, is if your actuator is leaking when boost is applied.
Vader's Fury
Active member
Green line connects to the intake. You can remove it, just remember to plug the hole in the intake or it will suck in air after the filter.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
that was a way beter explanation.
makes sense. at on point i did that and for some reason it ran funky so i plugged it back into the intake. vacuum reference for something i assumed. was told it wasn't needed on a tuned truck but i left it..
live life full throttle
Thats what I meant. How is that doing anything if you have the turnbuckle jammed down?
I have both lines hooked up and i cant say ive ever heard my gate open. I had it cranked to bust open at 30psi but i cranked it down and have seen about 38...but i dont beat on mine too much. Where i live its too snappy on city streets. I can run her up on two lanes and backroads but dont. Im a cruiser.
