A/C expert needed.

Dzchey21

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Im not a ford a/c guy so no one jump my ass LOL


The pressure running and shut off isnt much different, almost looks like the clutch might be slipping and not actually turning the compressor at full speed. i would get under and watch it and see if you can tell whats going on by that.

Your pressure running should be about 20 psi on the low side and 225 on the high side, roughly. If the pressure are close to the same then the compressor isnt doing much.

This might be a stupid question but both shut off valves on the a/c gauge manifold were shut correct?

If there was a blockage you would have high high side pressure and probably a vacuum on the low side.
 

Beans71086

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Im not a ford a/c guy so no one jump my ass LOL

LOL things were getting hotter in here than in my truck!

The pressure running and shut off isnt much different, almost looks like the clutch might be slipping and not actually turning the compressor at full speed. i would get under and watch it and see if you can tell whats going on by that.
i was watching through the wheel well, everything seems to be turning fine
Your pressure running should be about 20 psi on the low side and 225 on the high side, roughly. If the pressure are close to the same then the compressor isnt doing much.

This might be a stupid question but both shut off valves on the a/c gauge manifold were shut correct? yep yep

If there was a blockage you would have high high side pressure and probably a vacuum on the low side.
...
 

Dzchey21

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hmmmmmm.... im at a loss.


So i guess im unfamiliar with this system, could a missing orface tube or expansion valve cause this? Not common for what i work on
 

Cory@RPHC

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If I may ask where is the orfice tube located? I'm having some ac issues where it will start blowing hot at a stop but ice cold when truck is moving.

Also sorry to hijack the thread
 

CATDiezel

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The compressor is doing nothing. The slight increase in pressure you see with the truck running is from heat expansion from hot air blowing across the evaporator. You now need to check and see with a multimeter (dc current) if you are getting 12+volts to the clutch.

Let's start there first and go from there. I'll try and stay up with the thread as often as possible.
 

CATDiezel

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If I may ask where is the orfice tube located? I'm having some ac issues where it will start blowing hot at a stop but ice cold when truck is moving.

Also sorry to hijack the thread

In your case it's very simple.... you need a fan clutch. Main engine fan that is. It's bad. In order for the AC system to work it must have a way to rid the heat from the condenser. At a stop your moving no air across the condenser. That's why the fan kicks in and stays running. Yours is more than likely barely moving. And if you look and it's moving it's probably not enough to pull and cfm across the stack of radiators
 
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CATDiezel

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Yep, shut the ac off, clutch no turn. Turn it on and it turns, clutch seemed to be going same speed as the pulley. :shrug:

I'm sorry. I missed this post....

Your compressor is shot. Or the clutch is flat gone. The compressors work like a air compressor. It has a Reed valve. If it stops functioning properly. It equalizes the system when turning as indicated by your pictures.
 

Cory@RPHC

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In your case it's very simple.... you need a fan clutch. Main engine fan that is. It's bad. In order for the AC system to work it must have a way to rid the heat from the condenser. At a stop your moving no air across the condenser. That's why the fan kicks in and stays running. Yours is more than likely barely moving. And if you look and it's moving it's probably not enough to pull and cfm across the stack of radiators

Well I think that solves my problem because the wires pulled out of the fan clutch kit so just gotta find a wrecked 6.4 to snatch that switch off of
 

Beans71086

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I'm sorry. I missed this post....

Your compressor is shot. Or the clutch is flat gone. The compressors work like a air compressor. It has a Reed valve. If it stops functioning properly. It equalizes the system when turning as indicated by your pictures.

Thanks for the help, this is (and isn't) what I wanted to hear. Now I know I have to dig deeper, I have a friend ordering me a new compressor with a clutch on it.
 

Fordguy100

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Dont forget to get a dryer, and a orifice tube or expansion valve (I didnt follow the debate above, whatever your truck has in it).
 

ditch_dawg

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Just for giggles pull the belt off of the compressor and power the clutch directly from one of the batteries. Obviously, the truck should not be running while you are doing this. You should hear a loud click when the clutch engages. If it doesn't click it is not actually engaging. If it does click see if you can spin the pulley by hand.

I know of a few folks on here with '99-03 had similar issues and removed some shims from the clutch to close the gap and this allowed the clutch to engage.

That's all I got.
 

Beans71086

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Yep yep! Just for warning, the line that the oriface tube is in put up a fight. I don't know why but it cross threaded coming off. Luckily we had a parts truck at the shop and I was able to steal one.
 

Sbriggs

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Since this is an old thread but the knowledgeable were here perhaps someone knows where the ambient air temperature sensor is on the 2010 f350 lariat? Please don't guess! The truck shows evidence of front collision with the grill and bumper likely replaced. The net glues everywhere on this question with no true results. Can it be missing a short harness from dr. Side b4 the horns that also ties to the fog lamps that are also missing??
 

6.0 Tech

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Aat sensor is typically on top of the passenger side headlight. Its got christmas trees that hold it to the housing. Some had a tsb done that moved it to the bumper I believe. The drivers side 4 pin pigtail is for fog lights.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 

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