Another T4 thread

[Countrycar]

If I had it I would try it at this point Mike. I'm gonna see if maybe they still have it, the outfit that changed it for me I mean. I put the 11 blade wheel on there, and it was a POS no doubt, but it got better when I did 6X6. Mike, I thought that the 6X6 was in fact better than the stock wheel at far as that went. Correct me if I'm wrong. Do really think the stock wheel would make a difference?

 

[mikeeg02]

I have no personal experience with the aftermarket wheels, so my opinion can only be so valuable. Z_racing I believe also ran all three(if I have his username correct), and I believe he told me the stock worked best for DD/towing. He also did extensive tuning changes with Ge@rhead from what he told me to make the aftermarket wheels look better at the gauges but was still unhappy.

From what I have gathered on the aftermarket wheels from people who talked me out of it (people who ran them), they both offer top end gains, (best in a race), but both take away from the bottom end of the turbo.

I think Ty has a stock wheel on his, though I am not sure if hes ran either. His opinion is probably more valuable there.

 

[Countrycar]

I see. I really appreciate it Mike. Matt/GH has been telling me to put the OE wheel back on as well, but as I mentioned I don't have it. So at this point I need to try to find an OE wheel and put it on to see if this helps me down low and with my smoke issues too. I appreciate it Pal. Maybe Z_racing will come one here and give me some insight here as well.

 

[mikeeg02]

Jw stage 3 billet and pis 230/80's

I think that's the guy. May try and pm him.

 

[Z_racing14]

Id bet if you put the factory 38R wheel on you'd like it better as a turbo.

Your not the only person I've read about who share your results with aftermarket wheel

What he said. I tried them all. The standard ww is hot n smokey...better off with the billet 6x6 and even that was probably just an improvement on noise not really much performance

 

[Z_racing14]

Right on....im not knocking anyone either. But a few ohonecalls to get the 38r working right versus 3 grand to get what that accomplishes.

I guess after ten years and all that mileage you get a bit offended when someone says what you do doesnt work. Especially when it was pretty well documented in the latter part of the 2000 decade.

I dont think you can actually "tune" for a turbo. Unless you pull pw to keep from snuffing a charger. Or throwing pw and icp out to find the boil on a larger upgraded one.

Do you not find it at least odd that there are several trucks on this forum running way more fuel through 38r turbis without the issues? Hell there are five trucks running the setup ive got. All similar results.

If you really want to convince us how great your 38r setup is hook to a heavy trailer find yourself a soft incline and take a video of your truck at 20psi @ 2k rpm with egt's. Do it so it has to sustain that to hold your speed.

I don't like to shift in and out of od every small incline I get to. This is where my 38r was hot n smokey vs the 366sxe.

 

[Countrycar]

I was wondering though if there would be any advantage of removing the billet 6X6 I have now on my 38r and replacing it back to the stock wheel. Did you ever do this and did it show an improvement in Smoke and egt's as well. I ask because I might have to buy one if I can't get my OE wheel back from the outfit that replaced for me. And yes I'm more than likely going to go to a T4 setup as well, just looking to maybe get my truck running a little better for now, until I get back to work, then I can make the swap. Thank you.

 

[Z_racing14]

I was wondering though if there would be any advantage of removing the billet 6X6 I have now on my 38r and replacing it back to the stock wheel. Did you ever do this and did it show an improvement in Smoke and egt's as well. I ask because I might have to buy one if I can't get my OE wheel back from the outfit that replaced for me. And yes I'm more than likely going to go to a T4 setup as well, just looking to maybe get my truck running a little better for now, until I get back to work, then I can make the swap. Thank you.

Yeah the stock wheel spooled the easiest. The 6x6 wheel was definitely quieter and felt like it had still a little more mid and top end than stock. If you compare the pitch of the impeller blades on the different wheels you can certainly see the pitch is more aggressive.

Most of this is thrown out the window for someone who isn't loaded or isn't towing to heavy because the truck gains rpm fast enough that you don't notice the lag threshold. Load her up and it's pretty noticeable between the different wheels

 

[TyCorr]

I have no personal experience with the aftermarket wheels, so my opinion can only be so valuable. Z_racing I believe also ran all three(if I have his username correct), and I believe he told me the stock worked best for DD/towing. He also did extensive tuning changes with Ge@rhead from what he told me to make the aftermarket wheels look better at the gauges but was still unhappy.

From what I have gathered on the aftermarket wheels from people who talked me out of it (people who ran them), they both offer top end gains, (best in a race), but both take away from the bottom end of the turbo.

I think Ty has a stock wheel on his, though I am not sure if hes ran either. His opinion is probably more valuable there.

No Ty does not. Ty is running the worst version of the billet wheels. The fixed 11 blade. And while it is the least desirable i still have low egts and generous boost. I can make 38lbs and the gate will crack open just enough to keep.ut from.going higher but its not a full on dump like many have them set.

Mine isnt detracting one thing on the bottom. Or the top. But midrange and occasionally cruising you can find scenarios where a truck with cluelessly concocted tunes would create a hit spot. I dealt with it. Putting the stock wheel in is on my list but im not prepared for the noise. Mine is nearly silent as is.

 

[TyCorr]

Mines not a DD. And I use it to tow heavy. I love it in a bumper pull config compared to a SRW truck. But wiith a gooseneck trailer a SRW tows it like a dually with a bumper pull. At least IMO.

The other reason is I love the width of a dually flatbed. I haven't built one for this truck yet. It will be aluminum. But my old dodge I built one. 8'x8' of real estate. I love that!

Yessir. For a working truck like that it'd be sweet. MIne had one of those beds. It was great. IVe pondered turning mine into a service type truck many times but with a srw its stops me if for nothing else the look it'd have.

 

[TyCorr]

I just fail to understand how the cam kills a turbo that instaspools on even a stock fueled truck. Especially when you have 300cc of capacity and a decent sized nozzle.

Definitely put the cast wheel back in. And get tunes revised or live tuning. Idceather have it a tad smoky but the charger alive than hot and unresponsive. It truly sounds like the hpo system isnt tuned corrrectly to me but i really dont know jack about it. EVen at modest icp demands that thing should be verrrrrry responsive with tgat much oil and an injector that could make 550-600 on a stock hpop lol.

 

[TyCorr]

If you really want to convince us how great your 38r setup is hook to a heavy trailer find yourself a soft incline and take a video of your truck at 20psi @ 2k rpm with egt's. Do it so it has to sustain that to hold your speed.

I don't like to shift in and out of od every small incline I get to. This is where my 38r was hot n smokey vs the 366sxe.

Hell i had a post like that 4 or 5 years ago. I had php tuning and after one phone call he retuned my trans and no issues. That was with a stock 38r, a worn set of 250/200, a twisted stg 2, and on 37s.

Whats your scary point for egts? I wonder if some if you guys have too much gear and not enough fuel? A 3.73 and a real small tire almost has too much gearing. Its like a tractor lol. The newer trucks arent doing much if anything to decrease exhaust gas temps. Tuned 15+ 6.7s are hitting 14 and 1500 degrees. Stock and restrictive they may be as well or higher as the 6.4s were.

Im not saying ive never had any issues. My friend got a similar setup with 238/80s though and he had a heat issue. BUt after some looking he had drive pressure leaking off. And a small boost leak around his pass side plenum. We tightened it all and gained 6 lbs across the board and dropped 200deg out of his cruising egts.

David (jomax) ran 250/100 on a stock turbo and didnt gave the issues some of you are having with smaller injectors and a larger, faster, more efficuent turbo.

 

[hucorey]

I never had huge egt issues with my old 250/200's and a Garrett GTP38R, but BP was a bit much. I also am running a GH STG1 cam. Swapped in the KC38R a year ago. BP:Boost, dang near 1:1 ratio at WOT. Actual #'s were 39 boost 41 bp. I had the gate set to fully open at that boost level.

I dropped down to 230/100's and last time I towed was 8k (nothing terrible obviously), running 35's and 3:73's (definitely not ideal), and pulling fairly steep grades with OD off and never seen above 1100.

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[Z_racing14]

I wasn't comfortable holding mine for long runs hotter than 1250. I do also have 373's with 35" tires and the 35' 5th wheel I pull is like a sail boat for wind. On the interstate I'd always be around 1900-2000 rpm . In that window of rpm the egt gauge was stuck 1250-1300 all the time. With the sxe it pulls that same area without a sweat or excess egt's.

 

[Countrycar]

Thanks Ty for your input here as well. When Brad comes out, he's gonna bring his AE program and plug in to see how everything is working. I don't know much to very little myself about tuning, but maybe Brad can take a look and see if there's anything suspicious that might be causing me problems. I did have Matt take a look about 3 months ago and he did some live tuning which helped. I didn't know at the time I had a boost leak either. Running out of time, Matt tuned it up and I went about my business. When I got home I got all my leaks taken care of, but as I said, I'm still having issues. Even Matt/GH suggested a T4 change if possible because I am in Ca. But as I mentioned, lets see what Brad comes up with when we get together later this month. I know you mentioned to me in another thread months ago that my setup should just rip, and I agree with you 100 %, and it will bust the tires loose at even 35mph when I punch it. It's the poor idle, egt's and smoke that I just can't figure out what the hell is going on with it,:fustrate: and more so since I don't have AE or some other way that could help me diagnose my issues. I have a Scangauge but honestly that thing is worthless when it comes to diagnostics. Anyhow, I appreciate the info and input..
On Edit; I do have the gate tightened all the way down as well. Maybe I should try to loosen it up some, see if that helps if anything at all.

 

[Countrycar]

I wasn't comfortable holding mine for long runs hotter than 1250. I do also have 373's with 35" tires and the 35' 5th wheel I pull is like a sail boat for wind. On the interstate I'd always be around 1900-2000 rpm . In that window of rpm the egt gauge was stuck 1250-1300 all the time. With the sxe it pulls that same area without a sweat or excess egt's.

I'm also on 35's, and have been for over 15 yrs, even back when I had 238/80's and it towed fine.

 

[TyCorr]

Shti gentlemen, 35s are the smallest tires i have ran.

If your idle cant be refined, you have shti injectors or a tuner that needs to hang it up. Im doubting that gh needs to quit tuning lol.

My truck is great. Im glad i dont have all these issues. Especially since it sat alot the last two years. UNtil this summer.

 

[TyCorr]

I wasn't comfortable holding mine for long runs hotter than 1250. I do also have 373's with 35" tires and the 35' 5th wheel I pull is like a sail boat for wind. On the interstate I'd always be around 1900-2000 rpm . In that window of rpm the egt gauge was stuck 1250-1300 all the time. With the sxe it pulls that same area without a sweat or excess egt's.

Yea, thats kind of a bad spot for drive pressure to keep shti cool. IF i was going to run that alot id either go faster which isn't wise with that load. Or drop down to snaller rubber to increase rpm to 2200ish.

 

[ja_cain]

I never had huge egt issues with my old 250/200's and a Garrett GTP38R, but BP was a bit much. I also am running a GH STG1 cam. Swapped in the KC38R a year ago. BP:Boost, dang near 1:1 ratio at WOT. Actual #'s were 39 boost 41 bp. I had the gate set to fully open at that boost level.

I dropped down to 230/100's and last time I towed was 8k (nothing terrible obviously), running 35's and 3:73's (definitely not ideal), and pulling fairly steep grades with OD off and never seen above 1100.

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Awesome!

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[ja_cain]

Yea, thats kind of a bad spot for drive pressure to keep shti cool. IF i was going to run that alot id either go faster which isn't wise with that load. Or drop down to snaller rubber to increase rpm to 2200ish.

Smaller rubber. There is probably a reason these trucks camemail with the size tires they did.

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