Build me a tow pig
- Thread starter Motostroker
- Start date
steele86
New member
I thought those injectors work well with the stock pump at least that's what they say
bruce
Active member
Or he could go check ICP and DC to see if he needs a hpop before he just throws 500 bones at it for sh1ts and giggles
steele86
New member
Which of these would be the best setup 160. ,170, 205cc with 38r for towing? I was thinking about 205/80%for my truck. I'm always open to new info
bruce
Active member
160/30, 38r, frx, hutch mod, 6.0 trans cooler, bts vb is a tough tow rig, but not a worrisome maintenance queen.
Id still need a trans lol....
ithumpwheniwalk
New member
don't mean to derail the OP's thread, but at what size injectors are headstuds recommended for a 7.3, assuming a 38r or qssb turbo?
There is no injector size threshold. If you drive in a manner that builds boost at around 40psi or more you had better be getting studs and spring and pushrods of the upgraded variety in there.
If you run a stock turbo on a high mileage motor with any upgraded injector and drive hard you should have springs as the stockers are pretty borderline insufficient in my opinion (who am I though lol).
Here is my take, if you wanna drive on the street and impress people who.dont know anything you can do that with a stg1 or stg2 and if its only occasionally whooped on a 38r and 160/30-80 is fine.
You start getting into higher fuel and its imperative. My 175/80s were tuned wimpily by choice so they would only emit a puff of smoke at wot with a 38r. I had some hot tuning that would smoke, belch soot, etc and the boost would go over 40psi readily.
It really is dependent on the driver. If you are aggressive then you need to do the head mods if you think about adding any larger injectors. In my opinion, of course.
I know people.will tell you "I ran 238/100s on my stock fr motor for 45k miles with nothing else but tuning." I suppose if you just daily drove it and used the increased power for passing on 2lane roads, you would indeed be fine. As you arent doing MUCH outside of what you can do with a stock truck that is tuned. I had a buddy with 238/80s and a bts. No support mods. He started getting smoke and then it was running rough until warmed up. He finally lost two pistons. Tore it down and as suspected there were holes in two of the pistons. But what he wasnt expecting was the obvious marks where the valves were being smacked by the piston. It isnt what killed the motor but it was definitely at work on the cause. He drove it in a street tune and a heavy tow tune for the record. Im not sure how much he drives. We put the stuff in one fall before harvest and he ran the truck for the harvest that year and as a dd for the whole next season. Shortly before harvest, it went down. Id guesstimate 35k miles per year.
If you run a stock turbo on a high mileage motor with any upgraded injector and drive hard you should have springs as the stockers are pretty borderline insufficient in my opinion (who am I though lol).
Here is my take, if you wanna drive on the street and impress people who.dont know anything you can do that with a stg1 or stg2 and if its only occasionally whooped on a 38r and 160/30-80 is fine.
You start getting into higher fuel and its imperative. My 175/80s were tuned wimpily by choice so they would only emit a puff of smoke at wot with a 38r. I had some hot tuning that would smoke, belch soot, etc and the boost would go over 40psi readily.
It really is dependent on the driver. If you are aggressive then you need to do the head mods if you think about adding any larger injectors. In my opinion, of course.
I know people.will tell you "I ran 238/100s on my stock fr motor for 45k miles with nothing else but tuning." I suppose if you just daily drove it and used the increased power for passing on 2lane roads, you would indeed be fine. As you arent doing MUCH outside of what you can do with a stock truck that is tuned. I had a buddy with 238/80s and a bts. No support mods. He started getting smoke and then it was running rough until warmed up. He finally lost two pistons. Tore it down and as suspected there were holes in two of the pistons. But what he wasnt expecting was the obvious marks where the valves were being smacked by the piston. It isnt what killed the motor but it was definitely at work on the cause. He drove it in a street tune and a heavy tow tune for the record. Im not sure how much he drives. We put the stuff in one fall before harvest and he ran the truck for the harvest that year and as a dd for the whole next season. Shortly before harvest, it went down. Id guesstimate 35k miles per year.
CGMKCM
New member
Diesel world magazine did a multi part article on building a F-350 dually tow pig over the summer. Swamps did the labor. I would try to get the back issues (Chris Tobin was the writer) and follow that recipe. Maybe call Dave at Swamps and see what he says. The article covered engine mods, tranny mods, suspension mods. The trucks owner hauls construction equipment and was looking for reliability and performance gains.
Swamps will tell you at 40 psi you need to do studs/springs/prods...
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
my dually is an animal when hooked to whatever you want to hook it to... i have always left it in the hot tune even towing.. only thing i would change is better shifting. i had it tuned for wot in my hot tune so its a lil smokey due to shifing to soon.. i would have loved it if it shifted at a higher rpm when easing into it.. 3/4 throttle and above, flawless.... never got hot unless i made it...
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
cbly
New member
I have the exact toy hauler in a crossroads trailer, dry weight is #14,500lbs, figure when I am loaded with everything ( bikes, fresh water, and all the wifes crap), I am pushing 17,000 lbs. My 2002 F-250 was built with pulling in mind. Only thing left to do is a BTS which will happen early January. I have had struggles getting the truck to where it is now. Trial and error. my suggestion is do your home work. If you are building for a tow rig, stick to the plan, and make sure every mod you do is for the benefit of towing. It easy to get hung up try to make the truck go fast.
Ive got several friend driving new trucks and they get on me all the time for the cash that I spend upgrading my truck, I just smile and tell them its my next truck payment.
So to get to the short of it.
2002 f-250 4x4 reg cab flatbed
38r 1.0 outlet with EBPV delete
FF single shot stage one's
Banks intercooler
Banks waste gate actuator
Tymar filter kit
4" down pipe, 5" hush power muffler ( to quieting things up)
DI headers and up pipes
T5 HPOP
Riff Raf FXR
DP tuner with custom tow tunes
AIH delete
6.0 intercooler
and a few more mods, but not motor or trans related,,,,,
Truck pulls the trailer really well, it doesn't pull like the newer trucks, but for the price and the durability, I am very well pleased......
CBly
Ive got several friend driving new trucks and they get on me all the time for the cash that I spend upgrading my truck, I just smile and tell them its my next truck payment.
So to get to the short of it.
2002 f-250 4x4 reg cab flatbed
38r 1.0 outlet with EBPV delete
FF single shot stage one's
Banks intercooler
Banks waste gate actuator
Tymar filter kit
4" down pipe, 5" hush power muffler ( to quieting things up)
DI headers and up pipes
T5 HPOP
Riff Raf FXR
DP tuner with custom tow tunes
AIH delete
6.0 intercooler
and a few more mods, but not motor or trans related,,,,,
Truck pulls the trailer really well, it doesn't pull like the newer trucks, but for the price and the durability, I am very well pleased......
CBly
