Coxey Diesel
New member
That's sweet!
Button shifted F350
- Thread starter Dieselboy.
- Start date
+1 on a write up
FrankTheTank
Active member
Awesome! Thats all i can say.
Dieselboy.
New member
Not much to a write up, but here are some pics
Here are the different clock springs. The black one is the stock XL one.
This is the plugs under the dash, you can see the 4 wires pulled for the digital inputs and common
Another angle of the 4 pins, Arm, Upshift, Downshift, Common
This is the end of the wiring harness from the clock spring that I connected my Digital inputs to.
This is where I ran the wires into the cab for all my PCS stuff
4 Digital inputs ran from the PCS into the cab
Just before putting the airbag on, Dave modified this. Im guessing he connected it so the resumer button sends power to the on/off. Ill let him fill us in.
Finished
This is a screenshot of my Digital input screen and how its setup via programming. It correlates which input to what button, active hi or low for power and a reverse logic.
Pretty strait foward, as PCS has taken the guess work out of it. Basically was as simple as swapping wheels and hooking up wires.
Dave did modify the steering wheel as you can see in one pic. I had to hunt for a proper clockspring as the 99-01 are different from the 02 and up. The new one is from an 05.
The hardest part was getting the old wheel off.
Here are the different clock springs. The black one is the stock XL one.
This is the plugs under the dash, you can see the 4 wires pulled for the digital inputs and common
Another angle of the 4 pins, Arm, Upshift, Downshift, Common
This is the end of the wiring harness from the clock spring that I connected my Digital inputs to.
This is where I ran the wires into the cab for all my PCS stuff
4 Digital inputs ran from the PCS into the cab
Just before putting the airbag on, Dave modified this. Im guessing he connected it so the resumer button sends power to the on/off. Ill let him fill us in.
Finished
This is a screenshot of my Digital input screen and how its setup via programming. It correlates which input to what button, active hi or low for power and a reverse logic.
Pretty strait foward, as PCS has taken the guess work out of it. Basically was as simple as swapping wheels and hooking up wires.
Dave did modify the steering wheel as you can see in one pic. I had to hunt for a proper clockspring as the 99-01 are different from the 02 and up. The new one is from an 05.
The hardest part was getting the old wheel off.
why not just tap the wires coming out of the bottom of the column, and not use the second clock spring?? Seems as though you could use the rt side buttons with the cruise disabled, and not have to go through all the extra work.... Just wondering 
FrankTheTank
Active member
I dont think his orginal wheel had cruse... it was an XL.
Dieselboy.
New member
Yes. Was originally an xl truck.
Dieselboy.
New member
This is my next project. I had these custom made, they will work with the dash lights and illuminate blue, and then will light up when selected on.
I will be putting them in my f650 dash.
I will be putting them in my f650 dash.
Dieselboy.
New member
The pcs has 2 calibrations per file. So I have my daily driver file as A. And calibration b could have altered shift and tc strategies for towing, drag racing, sled pull or just different daily file.
Vader's Fury
Active member
Who did you have them made by? If you can not post it, can you pm me.
I need some switches like this for my project.
I need some switches like this for my project.
HD F250
Active member
Very cool!
Charles
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why not just tap the wires coming out of the bottom of the column, and not use the second clock spring?? Seems as though you could use the rt side buttons with the cruise disabled, and not have to go through all the extra work.... Just wondering
Also because those are more complex to use as they aren't discrete switches but a multiplex unit instead. Each of those buttons (resume, set, coast) is simply a resistance to ground of differing values in a resistor network that the pcm reads in through an ADC. IIRC, the static value for that input is like 6.6 volts on a pull up resistor. When you hit "On" it goes to a regulated 10v. When you hit "off" it pulls it to ground, so those are easy. But the other three just drop it below 6.6 by various amounts, like 4.xx, 2.xx and 1.xx volts or something similar although the actual values slip my mind right now.
Regardless, point being, to use the other three you'd probably need a module between the two with an ADC or a voltage based trigger to output 3 discrete lines to the PCS. I don't know if the PCS has anything built in that could do that work for you, although I guess it might.
Dieselboy.
New member
Had them made by jim@OTRATTW. Was 80$ for all 4 with the mount
Charles I was waiting for you to chime in.
I recently acquired a sensor to reference boost with. I'm going to install that to tune line pressure.
Wondering if you could chime in on the MAP/MAF selection. I can only go as high as 59.5psi but I'm sure you see more then that
Charles
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2011
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I run a 60lb sensor because even though the truck makes more power higher, by 60lbs I can call for the full line and it will be good enough for the remaining boost rise beyond without banging hard at 60. If I went to a 100lb sensor I would lose good resolution at low boost and the truck would be ill-shifting around town unable to discern between say 5 and 10lbs of boost very well.
I thought about running a 75 and may still.
Looks like you did well on the buttons, but from a human factors engineering standpoint I can't help but point out that at full power those buttons will be going from 9'oclock to 3'oclock, back to 7'oclock, so on and so forth while you're skiing around at 50+mph. Good luck chasing them around that wheel to make an upshift, lol.
The old, spin, spin, spin, spin while rolling the wheel back and forth, chopping the throttle and stabbing third gear isn't going to happen IMO. If I kept my hand over those buttons I'd be putting the nose of the truck through the ditch shortly thereafter because if my left hand is at 9'oclock, I can only cut the wheel about 45 degrees left before my elbow gets caught on my side. So the first time the ass swings back left I'm going into the right ditch, lol.
Which explains the only reason I've never put shift controls on the steering area. Cars that do that also have a steering ratio that allows lock to lock to happen in like 2 revs or less. Often times much less. Our trucks are like 3 turns lock to lock. You have to move your steering hand through a huge range of motion to control the truck.
For hauling ass I would have a second set of controls that my right hand could actuate separate from the wheel that's spinning violently left and right chasing the ass of the truck.
Vader's Fury
Active member
A hand held plow controller would be fun.....
Palm the wheel with your left hand and shift with the right.
Palm the wheel with your left hand and shift with the right.
Not to get too far off of subject, but are you guys upgrading your MAP to read higher numbers? How high will the stock MAP read? I am intreasted because I would like to keep reading boost from my MAP on my Livewire instead of adding anouther gauge. I did not see a MAP/MAF selection, maybe I am blind. Can you post a link to where you are talking about this? Thanks
brian89
New member
This is badass, love the switches, where did you get the gauge cluster with the speedo that goes to 160?
Dmstrucks02
New member
It's KM/H
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