cam change
- Thread starter g2shuck
- Start date
HOOV3R
New member
No right ups that I know of. Heads have to be off, pushrods and lifters out. Rear cover off, rear main retainer, and rear seal adapter. Unbolt the cam retainer and pull the cam through the rear. That should be about it in a real quick run down.
HOOV3R
New member
Pretty much. I'm not sure if it would clear the firewall or not. I've only looked at it cab off, trans out.
78f100
Active member
You are not supposed to remove the balancer off the rear of the crank. This has to come off or the crank has to be removed. Lots of guys have got by with removing the nono bolts but im not sure if its a good idea or not.
Breaking Habits
New member
I installed mine without removing the crank 2.5 years ago.. no issues since.
HOOV3R
New member
Relax the pushrods? You mean by pulling the rockers, pushrods out, and hoping the lifters fall down? It might work, I'm not sure.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
You can change it with the engine in and the heads on. I do it. Just pull the rockers and pushrods. Put marks on the crank spacer so you don't put the spacer back in out of time with the crank. Rotate the cam to push the lifters back up into the holders and they will stay in place without turning the engine upside down.
Honestly never really gave it any thought, but yeah that makes a lot more sense haha. I know I've seen guys talking about doing it this way a long time ago. Not sure if it's effective or not.
I think everyone's concern was that the crankshaft and balancer are balanced as an assembly and removing and reinstalling the balancer could throw that off.
HOOV3R
New member
I still think that if you're doing a cam, you should spend the little extra on new lifters. Wouldn't want a lifter failure on a fresh cam.
Agreed, which is part of the reason I opted not to do it at this point, it wasn't just the $600 cam, but lifters, pushrods, valve springs... just didn't want the headache at this point. Maybe over next winter.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
I will not put a cam in without upgraded valve springs (too many valves hitting piston even with upgraded springs) and for that fact I do not recommend valve springs without pushrod upgrade. But if you don't have a bazillion miles I don't see why you'd want to spend money on lifters. They are roller lifters and unless it has 100k plus I would not worry about lifters.
You don't have to pull the heads if your not changing lifters that takes a lot of the cost out. And I wouldn't worry about removing the crank adapter. As long as you mark it and don't put it a bolt hole off. Your gonna be just fine. Believe me that taking that off will not affect the balance as long as its installed back to the same orientation.
You don't have to pull the heads if your not changing lifters that takes a lot of the cost out. And I wouldn't worry about removing the crank adapter. As long as you mark it and don't put it a bolt hole off. Your gonna be just fine. Believe me that taking that off will not affect the balance as long as its installed back to the same orientation.
MorganY
New member
Got a crank in my room. Help some of you guys visualize this.
As stated by sledpull, This balancer flange can only be bolted in six different positions, so its not like you will be cm off. You'll either be 60° off, or right on the money when you bolt it back on.
Mark the teeth, balancer, and journal if you must, inline with a bolt, and re install it once the cam is in and timed.
As far as a 6.0, you'll basically have to pull the heads regardless to take the pressure off the lifters since you'd have to undo half of the bolts/studs.
6.4 could leave the heads on if someone wouldn't mind running the risk of a lifter dropping out of the bore. Im sure some probably have had luck without them falling out if you make sure they are all in the lift position.
As stated by sledpull, This balancer flange can only be bolted in six different positions, so its not like you will be cm off. You'll either be 60° off, or right on the money when you bolt it back on.
Mark the teeth, balancer, and journal if you must, inline with a bolt, and re install it once the cam is in and timed.
As far as a 6.0, you'll basically have to pull the heads regardless to take the pressure off the lifters since you'd have to undo half of the bolts/studs.
6.4 could leave the heads on if someone wouldn't mind running the risk of a lifter dropping out of the bore. Im sure some probably have had luck without them falling out if you make sure they are all in the lift position.
smokinstroker
New member
:drool: i want a cam soooo bad
MorganY
New member
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Double post sorry
Last edited:
Fast-6.0
New member
A few tips. The bolts that hold the rear seal adapter onto the crank are the same bolts as the harmonic balancer. They are torque to yield so just buy some from the dealer. When pulling the adapter it usually has an impression on the back side of it from a dot in the crank gear. Also marking it is wise but the dot impression is a backup. Another way to check is that the dowel will be straight up when the #1 piston is at TDC another easy double check.
When re-installing, use the old bolts and torque them to 50 ft-lbs. Then you use a dial indicator to make sure the runout on the adapter is less than .003". If its higher, loosen the bolts and shift the adapter around with a rubber mallet and retighten (rare that this needs done). Once you have runout within spec remove one bolt at a time and install the new bolts. Torque to 50 ft-lbs. Once all new bolts are in, tighten each bolt additional 90 degrees.
Almost every engine I build I end up pulling the adapter off when timing the camshaft, so you have nothing to fear about doing this.
A word of caution though, if you do get the adapter off, the balance will be off, and engine damage will occur, so take your time.
When re-installing, use the old bolts and torque them to 50 ft-lbs. Then you use a dial indicator to make sure the runout on the adapter is less than .003". If its higher, loosen the bolts and shift the adapter around with a rubber mallet and retighten (rare that this needs done). Once you have runout within spec remove one bolt at a time and install the new bolts. Torque to 50 ft-lbs. Once all new bolts are in, tighten each bolt additional 90 degrees.
Almost every engine I build I end up pulling the adapter off when timing the camshaft, so you have nothing to fear about doing this.
A word of caution though, if you do get the adapter off, the balance will be off, and engine damage will occur, so take your time.
