cam change

smokinstroker

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A few tips. The bolts that hold the rear seal adapter onto the crank are the same bolts as the harmonic balancer. They are torque to yield so just buy some from the dealer. When pulling the adapter it usually has an impression on the back side of it from a dot in the crank gear. Also marking it is wise but the dot impression is a backup. Another way to check is that the dowel will be straight up when the #1 piston is at TDC another easy double check.

When re-installing, use the old bolts and torque them to 50 ft-lbs. Then you use a dial indicator to make sure the runout on the adapter is less than .003". If its higher, loosen the bolts and shift the adapter around with a rubber mallet and retighten (rare that this needs done). Once you have runout within spec remove one bolt at a time and install the new bolts. Torque to 50 ft-lbs. Once all new bolts are in, tighten each bolt additional 90 degrees.

Almost every engine I build I end up pulling the adapter off when timing the camshaft, so you have nothing to fear about doing this.

A word of caution though, if you do get the adapter off, the balance will be off, and engine damage will occur, so take your time.


Thanks for the info Tadd. One question, if the adapter is positioned as close as possible to the factory location upon re install, do you still need to worry about the balancing issue?
 

09stroker

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Thanks for the info Tadd. One question, if the adapter is positioned as close as possible to the factory location upon re install, do you still need to worry about the balancing issue?

I think it more has to do with having it perfectly centered, hence the reason to check runout. Think about it, the flex plate and torque converter are bolted to the adapter.
A little off center would make the weight of those components throw the rotating assembly off balance.
 

HOOV3R

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This should help
gunybe4a.jpg
 

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