contribution/balance codes?

Mdub707

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I would be doing the others. It's not uncommon for say #5 to be bad and wipe out the others....
 

strokin6L

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I started the truck up this morning for the first time in a couple days. started up fairly good and idled pretty smooth. I decided to take it for a short drive. It drove good and had decent power, but noticed it seemed down on power some. Once engine got up to temp...I noticed it idled really rough. Seeing as it idled fairly good when cold...and idled really rough when warm, makes me think something with hpo system cause as oil gets warm/hot it thins out and makes it easier for the oil to leak out of the hpo system.
 

Craig@MFI

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You need to do a manual compression test a relative comp test does not tell you much if you want I can send you a compression tester for a core charge until you return it for no use charge

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 

strokin6L

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Its going to the dealer Tuesday Craig. Ive been busy and don't have the time to do anymore to it. I've got a buddy who is a tech there and will be checking it over. I really appreciate the offer and everything you've done to help!
 

strokin6L

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Well here's the news I just got. He did a relative compression check for starters. He checked it three times. 1st time it was 6% low, 2nd time 7% low and then 9% low. He's now gonna do a manual compression check. But I've been told a bent valve can also give a low compression reading. I'm assuming only way of knowing a valve is bent is to pull the head, and then the valves to inspect them right?
 

Cutting-Edge Diesel

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if you crank the motor over with the cold side pipe off you can sometimes here a leaky valve but not always. you will here a hiss in the intake. exhaust you would have to have the turbo out or up pipes off
 

strokin6L

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If you undo the nuts for the studs to remove the rockers....that won't compromise the head gaskets? Would more ARP moly lube need to be used then when retorquing the nuts for the studs upon reassembly?
 

strokin6L

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Here's the latest. Manual compression test showed #3 cylinder at 85lbs of compression. The rest of the cylinders on that bank were 400-425lbs. Had tech do a leak down test after. When he pressurized the cylinder it kept leaking air into the intake. So looks like I have a bad intake valve on #3 cylinder. Gonna need a new passenger side head.
 

strokin6L

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Right now I'm trying to find a good price on a passenger side cylinder head. Also I don't know if I should reuse my standard ARP's. They are 8 years old with roughly 35K miles torqued to spec which was 245ft lbs back in '06 before they changed torque spec to 210ft lbs.
 

strokin6L

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Without compromising the drivers side head...I'm sure I'm probably gonna hafta do one at a time. Also debating whether or not I should fire-ring the new head to match the drivers side. Stick with hypermax, or go a different route.
 

Mwilbur516

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Without compromising the drivers side head...I'm sure I'm probably gonna hafta do one at a time. Also debating whether or not I should fire-ring the new head to match the drivers side. Stick with hypermax, or go a different route.


I know it isn't the cheapest route, but I'd pull both heads and oring them, use OEM gaskets and either Xtreme studs or 625's. I just think if you've got one head off, might as well do both. I've got a set of heads that I'd sell for a very fair price. Let me know if I can help out in any way.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.
 

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