Head gasket replacement

webb06

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Thermostat and blue spring kit as well as a waterpump, depending on mileage of the engine.


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jake74

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I ordered blue spring kit and thermostat. I didn't order water pump. Truck has 89,000 on it. Think I should replace it?
 

kwelch08

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I would if I was you. I didn't like a dummy got in a hurry and now only a month later my water pump is starting to fail.

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jake74

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New oem water pump it is. I want to make sure I don't have to go back into it after it's all back together.
 

jake74

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Pulled lid of of hpop and looks like it has updated stc fitting but not sure.
image_zpsxlbcjjhb.jpg


Also took turbo apart and the vgt was stuck.There's some pitting but going to clean it really good and hope for the best.
image_zpscqfsbzrj.jpg
 
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Dieselmore

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That fitting is the updated stc fitting. The pitting is normal, if you have access to a sand blast cabinet, clean the turbine housing, and vanes. Inspect unison ring for irregular wear and replace as needed
 

jake74

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That fitting is the updated stc fitting. The pitting is normal, if you have access to a sand blast cabinet, clean the turbine housing, and vanes. Inspect unison ring for irregular wear and replace as needed

Thanks. I have a blast cabinet and was going to use it to clean exhaust housing but wasn't sure about blasting the vanes. Is it ok to blast the vanes?
 

Ford_Fan1

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^I personally wouldn't blast the vanes. Take a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder to polish the top and bottom edges of the vanes should be good enough. after you are done cleaning everything up, take a really thin coating of high temp nickle anti-seize to all surfaces-or another option that ford recomends is using engine oil (either one works- but you definitely should do one or the other to prevent rust from forming again.)
 

79jasper

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But if he wasn't using a course blast material, say like soda, wouldn't that be fine?

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jake74

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I getting closer. Maybe I'll finish up and get cab set back on tomorrow.

Heads surfaced,valves ground and pressure tested.
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New oem water pump.
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Block clean and studs installed.320 grit sand paper and wd40 on machined flat steel block. Pic makes it look shiner than it is. Took very little sanding to get it cleaned up. Couldn't get a .003 feeler gauge under the straight edge anywhere on the deck surface.
image_zps9zo9pbl8.jpg


Getting ready for new oem oil cooler.
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Assembled and ready to install.
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Getting closer. Pulled all the studs to 240ftlb. Shoulder was popping as much as the torque wrench by the end.
image_zpslxhldasv.jpg

image_zpslgjxuygw.jpg

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image_zps6pby0b61.jpg
 
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DEEZUZ

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I don't know about that. If ARP says no retorqing required I'd stick with their specs. Don't think your going to hurt anything besides the chances of re using them if for any reason of had to remove them
 

kwelch08

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To the OP since you have the turbo torn apart maybe look into some of kc turbos DIY build kits. Off the top of my head I think they have a stage 1.5 and a stage 2. Just a thought bud

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jake74

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I hope I never need to reuse them lol.
I did put rtv in rear corners of hpop cover.
Hope to get cab back on by this evening sometime. Then cross my fingers I didn't forget or do something wrong putting it together and light her off.
 

pdumont01

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Pulled lid of of hpop and looks like it has updated stc fitting but not sure.
image_zpsxlbcjjhb.jpg


Also took turbo apart and the vgt was stuck.There's some pitting but going to clean it really good and hope for the best.
image_zpscqfsbzrj.jpg
I always used brown and green scotch brite roloc discs on a 45 die grinder. Cleaned up the vanes the ring and both sides of the turbo. Worked great

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