Help with oil analysis results...what's goin' on?!

[Ronin]

Mods are in my sig. Current mileage is just over 28K, which is causing me concern for the longetivity of the motor...

I've been experiencing high levels of aluminum, iron and potassium just creeped in this last analysis. For aluminum I should be around 13, I'm currently at 27 (with a short sample interval of 2+K miles) and have been as high as 48. For iron I should be around 30, I'm currently at 27 on this short interval and have been as high as 86. Potassium should be around 10 and I'm currently at 9, been as high as 34 but that's been the least of my problems I think...

The Blackstone analysis tech is concerned. I'm running a relatively mild (Gearhead Street) tune and I thought with my Amsoil remote oil bypass and Dieselsite coolant bypass I was doing the right thing. I originally ran Motorcraft oil and switched to Rotella T6 synthetic. I've seen just on the high side of 50 PSI boost and it's puked a handful of times and only needed a few ounces (16 max IIRC) to get it back to the proper level. I haven't done anything with the EGR and since I might be relocating to Kalifornia I was concerned about futzing around with it.

Never raced or sled pulled. I mos def get on it on the street (once the oil/coolant is warm enough) and tow quite a bit, but only around 8K pounds max.

I'm planning on studding the motor and some other odds and ends once I figure out how everything works in the People's Republik of Kalifornia. I was planning on this truck being a 200K= keeper, just a bit nervous right now with the mileage this low and wear being an issue.

Rocker arm wear...? Leaking EGR cooler...? Whaddaya think? Thanks in advance!

 

[oldschool]

did you cut a filter and see what it looks like?

 

[Ronin]

did you cut a filter and see what it looks like?

Really? Blackstone oil analysis and AMSOIL remote bypass filter. What would cutting the filter open possibly tell me that an oil analysis can't...? :shrug:

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

This is my analysis during gasket failure. Note no water or anti freeze was detected in my oil. Piston failure followed with in the next 25,000km. The next analysis is after the new short block.
View attachment Oil 10-09_10-11.pdf

 

[oldschool]

Really? Blackstone oil analysis and AMSOIL remote bypass filter. What would cutting the filter open possibly tell me that an oil analysis can't...? :shrug:

are the pieces flakes, large pieces? the oil sample won't tell you that, and some samples don't read particles over a certain size.

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

Really? Blackstone oil analysis and AMSOIL remote bypass filter. What would cutting the filter open possibly tell me that an oil analysis can't...? :shrug:

Cutting the filter apart and inspecting the pleats lets you check for larger pieces of material that get captured that wont show up in analysis.

 

[Ronin]

I see...thanks! Makes sense I s'pose so my apologies to oldschool for sounding like a douchecanoe. I dug it outta the trash but it's covered in oil dry (ugghhh) so it's difficult to get a good look at it. What was your specific pistol failure forcedfed6.4ford if'n you don't mind reminding me? Just trying to get a handle on how to fix it before it develops into a catastrophic failure, short of getting rid of it...

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

It was precisely this

 

[Ronin]

It was precisely this

View attachment 10411

Poop. That's what I thought had happened. Sh!te. I was JUST about to get into it with studs, AirDog, etc. too. Would that be readily/somewhat easily inspectable for a knowledgeable wrench to take a looky-loo at?

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

They can look at the pistons when they do you studs, and from what I understand pistons can be swapped with then engine in the frame. With the cab up and heads off a set of pistons wouldnt be too much more for labor if the bores are good.

 

[Ronin]

Copy that...my local Ford master diesel tech is saying the walls could scored too which would turn it into a COMPLETE disaster...ugghhh...

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

Quick question before you get antsy about a possible engine failure. Did you do the oil change? Do you know for a fact that the bottle/lid/rim did not get contaminated? I had an alarming analysis that was way out of whack and it turned out that the dumb sh1t doing the change got some debris in the bottle. Though I was loosing another engine. Pissed me right off.

 

[Dzchey21]

Aluminum is generally from pistons it can be from bearings too but you should also have high tin. I don't know if i.would be worried about it unless it keeps getting worse. If it stays the same.then that's just how it might be.

Cut the filter pleets use rags and smash the oil out and then open it up if you can't see anything obvious then you might be ok

 

[Ronin]

Did the oil change(s) myself and I'm obsessive about those stupid foil oil container covers to begin with. I have a Fumoto valve which is cleaned and I let flow a little bit before I sample. The aluminum has been getting worse and has been crappy since Jump Street (I bought the truck brand new). Tin has been low almost all along and in spec. Not looking to throw the baby out with the bathwater but it's definitely a little disconcerting. Blackstone is recommending a resample of the same oil in another 4K miles, at which point if it's still high they're recommending a service visit with the dealer...

I'm wondering how much worse it would be without the AMSOIL oil bypass in place too. I installed that about 5K miles ago and made the switch to the Shell Rotella T6 syn and was hoping that would clean up the mess, but hasn't seemed to really been effective.

I've noticed that the oil has typically been running hotter than the coolant once it reaches operating temp, usually by 5 degrees or so, sometimes a little bit more with towing, etc. but never thought too much of that. Seemed to be more pronounced too once I made the oil switch...

 

[Ronin]

Ripped both ends of the filter off and turned it inside out. Last I checked oil dry doesn't come with small metallic flakes of what appear to be aluminum in it...!

 

[Dzchey21]

Probably have something coming apart...

 

[oldschool]

I see...thanks! Makes sense I s'pose so my apologies to oldschool for sounding like a douchecanoe. I dug it outta the trash but it's covered in oil dry (ugghhh) so it's difficult to get a good look at it. What was your specific pistol failure forcedfed6.4ford if'n you don't mind reminding me? Just trying to get a handle on how to fix it before it develops into a catastrophic failure, short of getting rid of it...

No problem, spread out the pleats and let it dry over night, see what's in there. most likely a piston, but could be anything in the engine that's aluminum. Like someone else said, might want to change oil and run another sample again if the filter is clean or even if it has some metal in it. One sample doesn't make a failure, but should be watched. need to be careful how you cut the filter apart too. hack saw isn't the tool to use!! they make a filter cutter that's like a big pipe cutter that cuts off the top so you don't introduce any metal.

 

[tbsimmons]

Before you jump onto tearing into the engine send another sample to some else just to check the numbers. If they are the same, the yes you might be having a problem raise its head. I have seen machines that are not cleaned properly give weird results. Ex when my dad did smogs. If the operator did a smog on a dirty car and didnt "flush" the machine out the next car could fail also, flush machine run again and wow it passes with flying colors.
That hack saw could be the metal you are seeing. To cut a filter use a pipe cutter looking thing. They have a name but thats what I call them.

 

[blk350on20s]

You guys realize these filters dont have any metal on them correct. Its plastic ends

 

[Ronin]

When I ripped the ends of the oil filter apart I just put it in a vise and pushed on it until it separated so there's no possible contamination from a cutting implement.

My latest sample, with just 2.1K miles is showing aluminum at 27, more than double when it should be at two to three times that mileage. I typically change the oil at 5K intervals, even with the AMSOIL bypass filter and synthetic oil, just out an abundance of caution.

I got this truck new and sampled it right away, and at every oil change. The aluminum has gotten worse with no signs of improvement. An extended tow trip last year (3K+ round trip miles with an 8K trailer and 90%+ highway/high speed) came back with an insane AL level of 86.

I have quite the dilemma and I very much appreciate the feedback. The oil in there now is only a few weeks old with just under 1K miles on it. If this were the first occasion of high AL levels I wouldn't be stressing, but between the OA and the filter looking contaminated I'm fairly certain without cracking the motor open that something is not happy, and it's something that's REAL expensive, never mind the cost when it does let go... I'm not sure that another sample is called for, but I'm gonna pull the filter today and see what's what...

Thanks again gentlemen, much appreciated!