How to make power in a 7.3

Jbenso127

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I think 600hp can be pretty safe now with the advances made in the industry. There are guys that DD 700hp + trucks, but not too many.

All about how many years you want to work to pay it off.

I personally like being different and getting it done in the 7.3. Dodge boys don't like getting shut down by a corn binder.

Exactly what i am looking to hear.
 

TyCorr

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I would bet money that without tuning for that exact purpose, keeping rods alive at 600hp would be damn near impossible. Especially in a daily driver that gets flogged in the quarter or on the 300' penis measuring contest(i like sled pulling so dont take offense). Seen rods at or under 500 that wallowed out.

Its a gamble you have to be willing to take or dont even mess with big injectors.

If your buddy can afford a cr conversion, 3k for.rods aint shti. Especially compared to 35k for a cummins build/swap and install.
 
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My E99 has a solid 600+ RWHP and has made 1,000mi trips pulling 26,000Lbs on Stock bottom end, Stock rods, with 300/200% inj's

Forged rods will take it, but it's a gamble. just keep the RPM's Within 3500. oh this truck also has atleast 30 runs down the track hooked to the sled with just the combo it has now
 

TyCorr

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I dont see any mention of your turbo size in that list of parts. I know you CAN bolt 600+hp worth of parts to a stock fr motor but even slightly below 500, you can expect egg shaped connecting rods.
 

Jbenso127

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I would bet money that without tuning for that exact purpose, keeping rods alive at 600hp would be damn near impossible. Especially in a daily driver that gets flogged in the quarter or on the 300' penis measuring contest(i like sled pulling so dont take offense). Seen rods at or under 500 that wallowed out.

Its a gamble you have to be willing to take or dont even mess with big injectors.

If your buddy can afford a cr conversion, 3k for.rods aint shti. Especially compared to 35k for a cummins build/swap and install.

I never said doing rods was out of the cost or question.. just curious as too opinions on what they can handle.. but the truck will most likely be getting rods and girdle, for piece of mind.
 

TyCorr

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I never said doing rods was out of the cost or question.. just curious as too opinions on what they can handle.. but the truck will most likely be getting rods and girdle, for piece of mind.

Hell with the girdle. Get a bedplate...
 

co04cobra

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There's always so much horse**** in these threads. Mines been at 600+ for about 20K+ miles. I sled pull, DD, and light tow whenever I need it. I have had it half way across the country and back.

The cummins b-u-l-l-s-h-i-t gets so ***n old. I see more then my fair share of CR failures at subpar 500hp and sometimes stock.

Tuning is huge on making it live. Either way you can build or buy a built 7.3 for much less then the 25-30K it will take to do a CR swap right.


Also, like said before, NOTHING is going to be 100% stone cold reliable in world of making HP.
 

Jbenso127

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There's always so much horse**** in these threads. Mines been at 600+ for about 20K+ miles. I sled pull, DD, and light tow whenever I need it. I have had it half way across the country and back.

The cummins b-u-l-l-s-h-i-t gets so ***n old. I see more then my fair share of CR failures at subpar 500hp and sometimes stock.

Tuning is huge on making it live. Either way you can build or buy a built 7.3 for much less then the 25-30K it will take to do a CR swap right.



Also, like said before, NOTHING is going to be 100% stone cold reliable in world of making HP.

I agree the with that.. which is why i created this thread lol.
 

lincolnlocker

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i have close to 90k at just below 500hp... but i didnt do valve springs and now im paying for it.. i also drove the absolute pizz out of this truck on a daily basis... live life full throttle!! . 7 bent push rods later and this is how it looks now. all 8 are like this...

ysahyger.jpg
u7e3emag.jpg
 

Jbenso127

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i have close to 90k at just below 500hp... but i didnt do valve springs and now im paying for it.. i also drove the absolute pizz out of this truck on a daily basis... live life full throttle!! . 7 bent push rods later and this is how it looks now. all 8 are like this...

ysahyger.jpg
u7e3emag.jpg

Oh wow.. no good.. all of the valvetrain will be being addressed so i dont believe we will have the same misfortune as you. But thanks for the heads up and early warning! Good luck on getting 'er back on the road!
 

TyCorr

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Water pump looks ok. You think those cracks have anything to do with the amount of pw it takes to make 500 hp on an inj thaat size and a 100% nozzle?

I only ran 175/100s for 4k miles. The same inj with 80% nozzles for 2500miles. The 100 over nozzles were second in line. I didnt like the way it ran initially and the tunes were reburned. When it got dynoed it made 410. Ran nice and cool and if you were sitting at an idle and stood on it would puff and then nothing. Obviously in tunes with aggressive convertor locking it was easy to smoke as you accelerated
to pass. It was easy to rollinto the throttle and then hammer down and not.get smoke.

I think the things I didnt like about the stg 2s will be missing with hybrids.
 

Trapper

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I don't know what my horsepower was but I had a set of 275/200s I think with a 38bb on a forged rod motor. Drove it hard. It only lasted 40K. It was a fun daily driver. But rods for anything over 450hp would be a good investment.
 

lincolnlocker

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Water pump looks ok. You think those cracks have anything to do with the amount of pw it takes to make 500 hp on an inj thaat size and a 100% nozzle?

I only ran 175/100s for 4k miles. The same inj with 80% nozzles for 2500miles. The 100 over nozzles were second in line. I didnt like the way it ran initially and the tunes were reburned. When it got dynoed it made 410. Ran nice and cool and if you were sitting at an idle and stood on it would puff and then nothing. Obviously in tunes with aggressive convertor locking it was easy to smoke as you accelerated
to pass. It was easy to rollinto the throttle and then hammer down and not.get smoke.

I think the things I didnt like about the stg 2s will be missing with hybrids.

no clue... it didnt run hot unless i was balls out for a mile... it stayed in the hot tune with everything i did... grossed over 20k at times and could stand on it up to 75mph to set the cruise and never got over 1400*... and that is how i drove it 99% of the time... loaded or not... with the cruise set at that speed and some of the up and down hills in northern michigan it never got above 1300*... havnt tried hauling through the ozarks or the rockies yet but i will.. its going back together with comp 910s and head studs and machined piston bowl lip. stock everything else... prolly need bored a little bit but dont know yet....
 

TyCorr

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I don't know what my horsepower was but I had a set of 275/200s I think with a 38bb on a forged rod motor. Drove it hard. It only lasted 40K. It was a fun daily driver. But rods for anything over 450hp would be a good investment.

I would hope the fuel was adjusted for the 38r. I have those same injectors but I havent got my motorback in yet or tunes written for them. I wouldnt be worried about rods with my injectors but since I want compounds, the billet CR's will be necessary.
 

TyCorr

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no clue... it didnt run hot unless i was balls out for a mile... it stayed in the hot tune with everything i did... grossed over 20k at times and could stand on it up to 75mph to set the cruise and never got over 1400*... and that is how i drove it 99% of the time... loaded or not... with the cruise set at that speed and some of the up and down hills in northern michigan it never got above 1300*... havnt tried hauling through the ozarks or the rockies yet but i will.. its going back together with comp 910s and head studs and machined piston bowl lip. stock everything else... prolly need bored a little bit but dont know yet....

Hopefully honework with the flexible or if need be the three stone hone. I would stick to forged rods but with compounds on the list it wont live. History repeats itself,lol. In my previous post, I wasnt bagging on the setup. Sorry if it sounded that way! I just envisioned my motor ending as yours has. The power in mine, even at nearly 100 less than what you have was much improved. I want more little easier though,lol.
 
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I would bet money that without tuning for that exact purpose, keeping rods alive at 600hp would be damn near impossible.

I have Gearhead tuning purpose tuned for pulling, towing and an economy tune lol. But I did tell matt that I wanted an "all out, don't worry about the engine 4k sled pull tune"! My egt's can get way north of 1800°. But I knew the cost and I really didn't care as I took a 7.3 to the top five out of 32 trucks from three states and RCD's stock appearing turbo class in oct!

Especially in a daily driver that gets flogged in the quarter or on the 300' penis measuring contest(i like sled pulling so dont take offense). Seen rods at or under 500 that wallowed out.

Lol never heard of the "300' penis measuring contest."

To the op, build the motor and be someone else......not like all the other same ol' same ol' cummins lovers.


Sent while hooked to something, somewhere, with my foot through the floor!
 

lincolnlocker

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Hopefully honework with the flexible or if need be the three stone hone. I would stick to forged rods but with compounds on the list it wont live. History repeats itself,lol. In my previous post, I wasnt bagging on the setup. Sorry if it sounded that way! I just envisioned my motor ending as yours has. The power in mine, even at nearly 100 less than what you have was much improved. I want more little easier though,lol.

didn't think that you where bagging on it at all!!!
i blame myself 100% on why it did this... if i drove like a normal white man, it would prolly have lasted a lot longer. btw, head studs are only going in for a procharger upgrade in the future.
 
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