Lift Jumping From 6" to 10"

Erikclaw

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Looks good. Mine is advertised as an 8" but looks taller. Looks like you could go to a dual stage coil since you have a foot of thread on the body.
 

EvilTwins

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Looks good. Mine is advertised as an 8" but looks taller. Looks like you could go to a dual stage coil since you have a foot of thread on the body.

I was initially thinking the same thing. I have about 7.25 inches of free threads from the top of the main spring to where the threads run out. My question is, if I want to get a dual stage spring, would I have to change the main?? Also would a secondary spring fit since the 7.25 inch measurement does not include the space required for an adaptor that would adjoin the two springs and the top spring stop.

I asked Trevor when the springs arrived if I was missing the two smaller springs and he indicated that the smaller lifts don't require the two stage set up. Im sure he has a handle on what will and wont fit and the balance between function and physical appearance.

Straight up Sik!

Thanks Bro, lotta hours invested. :sleep:
 

Erikclaw

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I would think that you would keep the spring you have now.. The second one is merely a soft first stage. At least I think so. Will it fit, not sure. Mine isn't very big so my guess is it will.
 

Ipkyss

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If it rides good leave it be. If its too stiff. Try a shorter lower with a softer upper. But fair warning. It could take many different spring combos to get it right if you start playing with it. You can do a lot of reading on spring rates on Pirate4x4.com There is enough reading on those forums to make your head spin.

As long as you achieve the ride hieght and ride quality you want. There is no difference in where the spring sits on the shock.
 

EvilTwins

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I did some digging and Eibach makes a helper spring that is 3" in length. It serves no purpose but to keep tension on the main spring should the shock extend, or drop out, beyond the main springs range.

With my set up the drop out is not possible so the helper spring is purely cosmetic. Which is ok for me. ADS quoted me 80.00 per helper spring with a weeks shipping and throw in ( foe fawee) the spring to spring couplers.

Summit has the springs for 60.00 each and they are is stock in Ohio. They want 25.00 per coupler, which aren't available till the 18th. The 3" coupler is the X factor.

I don't want to change the characteristics of the shock assembly since I'm sure there was a lot of factors that went into the set up I have now and don't wanna screw it up.
 

Ipkyss

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I did some digging and Eibach makes a helper spring that is 3" in length. It serves no purpose but to keep tension on the main spring should the shock extend, or drop out, beyond the main springs range.

With my set up the drop out is not possible so the helper spring is purely cosmetic. Which is ok for me. ADS quoted me 80.00 per helper spring with a weeks shipping and throw in ( foe fawee) the spring to spring couplers.

Summit has the springs for 60.00 each and they are is stock in Ohio. They want 25.00 per coupler, which aren't available till the 18th. The 3" coupler is the X factor.

I don't want to change the characteristics of the shock assembly since I'm sure there was a lot of factors that went into the set up I have now and don't wanna screw it up.

Adding the 3" "tender" springs makes no sense at all. It will be completly collapsed with the weight of the truck on it. Even for cosmetics, It would be the same as adding a 1" spacer to the shock. The dual rate sliders wear the finish of the body of the shocks also.
 

Erikclaw

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If you put a tender spring on and it is fully collapsed than you got the wrong one. I have them on my coil overs and they are not collapsed. But to run them you need the mail spring to be set at the correct stiffness too.
 

EvilTwins

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This is what I was thinkin. In response to my post Benbou00 reached out and offered me his helper springs.
These are from his set up.
 

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Erikclaw

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I want to say mine has a little more space between the coils, but they do offer a little. It is softer so it will collapse first then the main takes over.
 

Layson

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I want to say mine has a little more space between the coils, but they do offer a little. It is softer so it will collapse first then the main takes over.

Yep mine are spaced apart quite a bit.
 

Layson

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Here is a little larger pic of my avatar... You can see what I am talking about.
photo-191.jpg
 

EvilTwins

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Here is a little larger pic of my avatar... You can see what I am talking about.
photo-191.jpg

That appears to be the main spring. My main looks similar. The one I believe we are speaking of is the helper spring that would collapse a bit more. That is a wicked set up by the way.
 

EvilTwins

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I'm currently in Ipkyss land (Deerfield MA) doin a road test. DAMN IT STINKS IN THIS PLACE

I finally got my exhaust back from coating.
 

Erikclaw

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You can see Layson's helper spring above the thread locking thingy that holds the main spring in its location.
 

Ipkyss

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It all depends on how you use them. The point of the tender springs is so the main spring does not come unseated from the bottom of the coilover with down travel. If your coils can't come unseated. Then there is no point to using them. The tender springs will be completly collasped unless you use a locking collar like above to stop the dual rate slider. which is the right way to do it. But at that point. It does not matter how much space is between the tender coils.

And don't group me in with Dearfield. I'm in the woods in Hampden on the CT line. Same kinda area as being at Sean's house.
 

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