Man Down! Drivers side headgasket..

backwoodsboy

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What makes you think it's a head gasket?
I've done gaskets in truck. Much easier and quicker to just pull the motor.
 

V-Ref

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TyCorr

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I bet you could. It may be a pain in the ace though. Can you limp that doggy home?
 

V-Ref

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I've had a H-11 break before but it was while torquing it not driving down the road. Wow

There was a pop/bang/crack that sounded like a suppressed centerfire rifle, just before all hell broke loose. Guess that was it :shrug: I did several hot retorques on these too...sumbitch :fustrate:
 

TyCorr

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How the heck does that happen? I mean they're supposed to be better than arp's as well.
 

backwoodsboy

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The forward H11 head stud & nut are missing? :jawdrop:

http://autorotate.smugmug.com/photos/i-PhZwKMk/0/XL/i-PhZwKMk-XL.jpg




I may end up doing it. Just wanted to see if it can be done in the truck. Thanks.

Holy mother of....


I'll be the first to tell you, doing gaskets in truck is no fun at all. Be prepared to have sore ribs for a week afterwards and use every four letter word you know trying to navigate the head back down without crunching your new gasket.
I've done it all three ways, and you're time ahead pulling the engine or lifting the cab.
 

V-Ref

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What was you target tq # on the hot re-tq's?

Just checked the tq wrench...it's still set on 135 ft/lbs. I no longer have the documentation from WOP when I purchased em....but I'm fairly certain that's the spec it stated...I wouldn't have just made that up. But I do hope that's right :)

All this time I've been a proponent of hot retorques...as I've gotten a good half turn or more on mine when doing it...
 

Blowby

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Yep 135 is the value WOP used on mine in the past. My current # is 135 on my last re-torque and I was going to do another hot re-torque to 140 this winter. I'm not worried about the number you used, I bet you had a faulty stud.
 

Arisley

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Just checked the tq wrench...it's still set on 135 ft/lbs. I no longer have the documentation from WOP when I purchased em....but I'm fairly certain that's the spec it stated...I wouldn't have just made that up. But I do hope that's right :)

All this time I've been a proponent of hot retorques...as I've gotten a good half turn or more on mine when doing it...

You should always take your wrench back to it's lowest setting after using it. Just saying.

Did you do those hot retorques with the engine actually hot? I heat the motor up and let it cool down. You torque a hot bolt and you would be amazed how much it will stretch.

Were those new studs when you put them in. If they were used, no hot retorque is needed, they have already been stretched.
 

V-Ref

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You should always take your wrench back to it's lowest setting after using it. Just saying.

Did you do those hot retorques with the engine actually hot? I heat the motor up and let it cool down. You torque a hot bolt and you would be amazed how much it will stretch.

Were those new studs when you put them in. If they were used, no hot retorque is needed, they have already been stretched.

I agree...I usually do..but just looked at the wrench cause I couldn't find the paperwork with studs.

I did do the retorques with the engine hot. That's what every shop I've talked to stated to do.

http://swampsdiesel.com/site/pdf_instructions/7.3LHeadStudInstallation.pdf

They were new.
 

Blowby

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Re-used H11's that are hot re-tq'd = about an 1/8-1/4 turn here.





Must be the correction factor for altitude. :popcorn:
 

V-Ref

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What were you doung when that sucker popped?

4th gear 40-70 mph roll on in a tow tune....got to about 30 psi of boost...and boom


Dam!! Dont see that everyday.

live life full throttle

I know....I don't know what else to think but just a bad stud. Installed the studs one by one. Initital Tq was 90 ft lbs, then took two more steps using the tq sequence pattern to achieve 135 ft lbs. Used ARP lube. Calibrated by the local Snap On truck tq wrench. Stuff just breaks :shrug:
 

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