Motor Rebuild Help

juniort444e

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Im starting a complete build on a motor very soon. SO im starting this to gather all the info i can before i start. Everything will help me out, such as how to's, what tools to use where and so on.

First question, im trying to choose what to do about pistons. Should i get them bored over, bowl work, coated. I know im going to need valve reliefs cut for the new cam.
 

Magnum PD

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Go with Mahle pistons. You'll have to send them to one of the sponsors that builds engines. How much over depends on how much wear there is. I got mahle .020 over, .010 decked pistons for $350. Have you got engine out, or taken apart?
 

juniort444e

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I wish i had some :popcorn:

Jake is getting me better valve springs then my current 910's.

Im thinking about getting the cryo'd forged rods from one of our sponsors as well. Or should i just go with better ones, carrillo or crower's.

Should i get valve work done also. Not sure whats out there to do with them so open to idea's.

What about a rebuild kit for everything else, and maybe some better head gaskets.

Thinking about getting the manifolds cryo'd, and ceramic coated too.

And finally should i reuse my arp head studs or go with h11's.

Im somewhat new to rebuilding motors, but willing to learn and take all the advice i can get. Thanks in advance for helping.
 

juniort444e

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The motor in my truck is staying in so i can keep driving. Im buying another motor or two to rebuild completely and repaint, the whole 9 yards basically.
 

jwlandry

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what i would do,
mahle pistons with bowl work and some coating to aid in getting rid of head
ported heads
cam
Rods(carrillo, cunningham, crower, R&R, etc)
girdle
main and head studs
pushrods
valve springs(better then 910s)

That should be a hell of a start. And if your gonna build it, just spend the money on rods. build it once and be DONE with it.
 

Big Bore

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First question, im trying to choose what to do about pistons. Should i get them bored over, bowl work, coated. I know im going to need valve reliefs cut for the new cam.

Piston size will be determined by the bore size. Are you going to take a chance and just bore a block, or have it sleeved? David Lott convinced me that sleeving is the only way to know for sure what you have as far as a block. Pinholing in the cylinders from lack of coolant maintenance is apparently all too common. I'm taking a block to be magnafluxed next week then having it sleeved if it checks out.

Definitely have the bowl edges relieved. Ceramic coating on top and a different coating on the side is what I'm planning, still trying to locate someone to do it when I'm ready.
 

Magnum PD

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How much do the bowl edges need to be relieved? Only in high HP numbers or in lower compression?
 

juniort444e

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What kind of HP are you planning on? jw.
Honestly without throwing numbers out my a$$, i would love to be around 800. But i havent even tapped into the potential of my current setup due to pmr's. And i know it should be good for 550+. More or less i just want it built to handle sled pulling, dragging and me beating on it, and then able to handle compounds later on.
Money no object?
Money is kind of an object, but i have some play room. Im not trying to break the bank. I would love for swamps to build it but im looking at alot of money. Then again i could just buy HRT's motor and be done. But i dont have that much. Thats why im trying to save alot in labor fees.
Piston size will be determined by the bore size. Are you going to take a chance and just bore a block, or have it sleeved? David Lott convinced me that sleeving is the only way to know for sure what you have as far as a block. Pinholing in the cylinders from lack of coolant maintenance is apparently all too common. I'm taking a block to be magnafluxed next week then having it sleeved if it checks out.

Definitely have the bowl edges relieved. Ceramic coating on top and a different coating on the side is what I'm planning, still trying to locate someone to do it when I'm ready.
So sleeving sounds good. Where could i get that done at. And is it worth it to bore over any for gains or not really worth it. I was also thinking ceramic on top and whatever they put on the sides. And get the bowl relieved. Sounds good.

Now for rods. What are the best bang for your buck rods. I still have a hard time justifing spending that kind of money on rods, but if need be i will.
 

juniort444e

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I have thought about everything that i could think about putting into it. This is going to be my DD, sled pull until i get another one built later on. So thinking back to my other post the hp may be alittle higher then what i want in a dd. So what ever is needed to keep it alive at around 550-650 or maybe more if tuned right, ill be happy. If i can get away without doing girdle and expensive rods then im fine with that, as long as it would live at that horsepower without them. And all the other info will be applied to the next motor that will be built to the max. Im aiming for something close to thuglike's build.
 

juniort444e

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I know most of that. Just wondering if them cryod stock forged are worth it. I mean for another 2geez i could have the best. But thats steep in my book. Im curious to know what vendors sell rods for what price.

Is it hard doing all the main bearings and bottom end stuff. And will i need a girdle at that power.
 

Magnum PD

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Girdle can help, but some say the girdle is not bullet proof. Side walk, side loads and other issues. Filling the block is recommended.
 

Big Bore

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How much do the bowl edges need to be relieved? Only in high HP numbers or in lower compression?

Bowl edge relief is to prevent heat stress cracking and is a slight radius to remove the sharp edge. Major bowl work takes the edge relief a bit further and other areas and is where the compression gets lowered. That takes someone very knowledgeable about the 7.3. I'm just relieving the edge on mine for longevity purposes and any machine shop can do that. There have been pics posted here of the cracking that starts at the edge of the owl. I may have some soon that I'll post.
 

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