My truck seems gutless

[TARM]

I am confused here on the order of events. You had a stock setup with Matts tunes and then added injectors then got a reburn. At that point power was touchy etc... Then you added a Stealth and Fuel system and had Matt reburn the chip again and it was with these upgrades and the tune changes that you lost that touchy "powerful" feel?

Or did you start from the beginning with hybrids and Matts tunes and then get stealth and fuel system and get a reburn.

Have you always run only Matts tunes?


When you do a WOT run do you feel all the power? What are your EGTS cruising and @ WOT? What is your boost in both conditions as well? Where do you have Fuel pressure set to? 60-70?


It is possible you have not lost power and its just the throttle has been made less touchy. Matt can easily turn that back the way it was IF that ends up being the case but in the end it gives you no more total power and gives you less control. Think about it. What I would do is have all but your top tune kept with a stockish pedal so you can control it easily if need be then have the race tune be a bit touchier. Again that is if this is the issue and its not mechanical.

Another tuner trick to giving the illusion of more power is to screw with the pedal movement to throttle % basically taking all the throttle and cramming it into somewhere between 1/2-3/4 pedal movement or messing with different % at different points. There is no free lunch you only have 100% and if you put more in one place it has to come from another and that will create a flat spot. IMO its best to not play games and make it that when a persons moves the pedal 1/4 they get 1/4 throttle not 1/2 or 1/3 or whatever.


IIRC you are running PMRs correct? IMO Matt is one of the very best at keeping those alive. He has some of the best base tunes for your combo i.e. 100% hybrid/ 38r/ Stealth

 

[Noonman350]

Heres from start to finish... I was running a stock setup with an edge Evo for 6months. I then installed a 38r. My edge was a pile so I turned to Matts tunes. I ran a stock setup besides the turbo for about a month or so. Then I got my injectors. I bought them off the classifieds here. I sent my chip into
Matt to reburn for a set of 250cc/100% full force injectors, a Stealth SRP1.1, and a fuel system from irate diesel. The guy I was getting the pump from got super delayed an I just got it from someone else about 3days ago. the fuel system is... Well I have no idea. Jake at Irate says he's waiting on a shipment from Fuelab. But that was like 3weeks ago. I was u see the impression that this would all be here within a week of each other. But that was obviously not the case. That's why I had the chip burned for those things before I had them. So I didn't have to keep bugging Matt with reburns every week. The throttle doesn't feel like there is really any power. I understand what you're saying. I'm just trying to explain what I feel when I drive it. It doesnt feel any different in any of the tunes. Thy all feel the same and it's a stock feeling. 1/4 throttle is a tad bit more than stock. 1/2 is stock. 3/4 - full... Is gutless. I can slam that thing to the ground and I get nothing. I have more response and pull from my law mower. I don't know if I installed something wrong or if it's just the fact Matt has something tuned on there that I don't currently have on ( the Irate fuel system ) which would be my bad because I should have waited.

I'm new to terms on here so by WOT do you mean like Wide Open Trial? Because I that what it refers too then when I just gun it I don't get much. My EGTs are normal. When I didn't have the injectors I was running up to 1050 on the hot tune. I run like 900 at most on any of the tunes now

 

[SDS97_7.3]

WOT = Wide Open Throttle

 

[Gearhead]

Is your map sensor seeing 22 psi at WOT?

 

[Noonman350]

My boost gauge is broken. But my friend gave me a boost fooler from beans for free soni out it on. That was before I ran the injectors. An my gauge was reaching like 29-31 at the highest. I think I have a small boost leak or maybe it's just the turbo not spoolin up very well... Highest I can get now is about 15.

 

[Noonman350]

Like I said. I am just confused with whats going on. I am still curious to whether or not it could be the IPR... since I did reuse the old one im my new HPOP. I didnt think id need a new one.

 

[Arisley]

What is your HP oil reading? Without knowing that, you are just taking an expensive WAG. First thing I would do is check for and eliminate all boost leaks.

 

[Gearhead]

also ditch the boost fooler for now and hook the map up directly to manifold boost.

 

[TARM]

You explaining everything in more detail helped a lot.

Well it certainly does not sound like the tunes.

Is it smoking bad?

My guess if its not something with the fooler is a boost leak.

Have you checked you fuel pressure? As you have a mystery pump and all.

Do you have a CEL (Check Engine Light) that stays on or comes on at all?

 

[Noonman350]

its not smoking hardly at all. the only time i get it to is ifi stab the peddle in the highest setting. as for CEL or any other lights... no, just the annoying seatbelt and door ajar ( it stays on sometimes)... ill reconnect the hose and take the fooler out. i did have a boost leak a while back. my ferrill on my gauge actually melted and my line broke. i replaced it and put some adhesive around it just for a saftey measure. mainly because it was right next to me. I didnt think it was ever the tunes. Matts tunes have been awesome, i just thought it was something i did or did not replace. two questions: one... what do you use for checking for boost leaks? I have never had that problem before so ive never had to learn. two... fuel pressure. do i need that auto ingineuty deal? or is there a manual way to do so?

 

[TARM]

You can make a boost leak tester. Take a PVC end cap that will fit in the intake boot and drill hole in the end and thread in air compressor fitting. You can add sealant to the threads to help get a air tight seal when you thread it on. You want the connector to cut the threads into the pvc as it threads in so have the hole just large enough to get it to thread. Clamp it good and tight into the intake boot. Turn your regulator all the way down or air control valve. Then hook up your air hose. Slowly bring up the pressure up to to say 10 psi. Listen for leaks around all the boots and connections. I then keep taking pressure up checking for leaks till I hit say 20-30psi or intake boots blow off :evil.


Here is a pic I pulled for ya of a detector. They are stupid easy to make:

 

[907DAVE]

Be sure to do this directly at the turbo or disconnect and cap you CCV. Bad things happen when you pressurize your crankcase.

 

[TARM]

My brain must not be working. Where else would/could you connect up a 4"-5" PVC cap to?

 

[2002FordPwr]

My brain must not be working. Where else would/could you connect up a 4"-5" PVC cap to?

:whs:

 

[907DAVE]

If you still have your CCV installed and put the leak test cap into the intake hose that connect to the turbo inlet..you might have issues.

Does anyone remember how stock or other drop in turbo's look....

 

[TARM]

HA you know I did not even think of that. I was sitting here trying as hard as I could to figure out where you connect that damn pressure tester that was some how gonna end up in the crank case. One of the very first things I do with any 7.3 is vent it to atmosphere the way IH intended it to be and also delete the almost always broken ford air boxes. So I never even thought of that. Glad you mentioned it. You are right that could be a real bad day if you pumped 20 psi from a big air compressor in there.:morons:

 

[AirFishAutomotive]

Not to state the obvious but if you have no boost gauge how do you know your hitting 15psi

Anddddd if your only hitting 15 psi compared to the 31 your 16 pounds difference. Which is a good bit of power.

Or maybe I missed something along the way....its to early LOL

 

[Arisley]

Keep your head out of the engine bay. Klhanson from back in the old TDS days had a boot blow off at 20 lbs with his head under the hood. It actually broke his eardrum.

 

[Noonman350]

Ok. So just pull the hose off the turbo, put the tester over it and seal it. Then apply air and listen for leaks? That's all right?

 

[Arisley]

Actually pull the filter off the hose going to the turbo. Clamp the tester into that hose and pressurize. You will get some leakage from open valves.

This method will also not test leaks on the hot side of the turbo (up pipes). Look on the firewall for soot, that is the best way to locate up pipe leaks.