DirtyJerseyStroker
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And have good life insurance! :thumbsup:
Question about the ESOF system
- Thread starter DirtyJerseyStroker
- Start date
And have good life insurance! :thumbsup:
mcdaniel1991
Active member
Lmao that's nuts since I was doing 105 on the autobahn the other day
mcdaniel1991
Active member
I put it in reverse In a parking lot in 2wd and hoped out and watched the front drive shaft and it was turning so this means mine is stuck correct?
Lassie
New member
If an axle shaft is turning, then yes, that hub is stuck. The driveshaft coming from the transfer case should not turn in 2wd, even if hub is stuck. If it does, there's a problem with transfer case.
Remember that when you engage or disengage 4x4, it can take several feet of rolling for the hubs to lock or unlock, even when things are working correctly.
Remember that when you engage or disengage 4x4, it can take several feet of rolling for the hubs to lock or unlock, even when things are working correctly.
mcdaniel1991
Active member
Ok I had my wife drive my truck(I know I know) and I watched the shaft going to the front pumpkin from the transfer case and it DOES spin in forward or reverse and in 2wd and 4wd
I don't think it's the transfer case since I'm not locked into 4x4 I think it's the front hubs are locked
I don't think it's the transfer case since I'm not locked into 4x4 I think it's the front hubs are locked
Last edited:
Lassie
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Were both front axle shafts also turning?
Zmann
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when in 2x4 truck off
u can reach the u joint inside the knuckle and see if they turn by hand for both sides
and u can grab the drive shaft to see if it spins by hand
keeps the wife out of the equation
u can reach the u joint inside the knuckle and see if they turn by hand for both sides
and u can grab the drive shaft to see if it spins by hand
keeps the wife out of the equation
Lassie
New member
To get them to release if they are stuck, you can sometimes make them release without pulling the wheel. Jack up the stuck side and with the hub in the auto setting, spin the wheel back and forth with quick direction changes until the axle shaft stops turning. If it wont free up, pull the hub and reinstall.
Only long term fix is to correct the vaccuum leak, or manual hubs.
Only long term fix is to correct the vaccuum leak, or manual hubs.
mcdaniel1991
Active member
Ok I plan to fix the vacuum leak can someone link a write up on it for me ?
Zmann
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I don't think there is one? the OEM procedure uses a boatload of special tools but it's easy to locate the issues Mcgyver style if u have to
with a finger a golf tee and a short piece of hose
a vac tester makes it even easier
with a finger a golf tee and a short piece of hose
a vac tester makes it even easier
Lassie
New member
You'll need a vaccuum gauge/brake bleed kit (thats usually how they are sold) It will have different fittings and tubing sizes with it.
On passenger side wall under the hood, directly behind the battery, is the pulse vaccuum solenoid, vaccuum pump, and vaccuum canister. This procedure looks long, but will take all of about 10 minutes to diagnose your problem.
1. With Key on Engine Off (KOEO), the vaccuum pump should run until canister builds vaccuum. Connect vac tester into line between pump and canister to be used as a gauge.
2. Cycle ket off and on and listen for pump to run. Watch gauge and vaccuum should build and pump shut off. Vaccuum should now hold. If all this checks out, pump is good.
3. Reconnect line from pump to canister.
4. Connect the vac gauge into line going from canister to pvh solenoid mounted on side wall.
5.Cycle the key as before. Vaccuum pump should build vaccuum in canister and hold. If does not hold, leak is in canister.
6.Reconnect line from canister to pvh solenoid.
7. Connect gauge to pvh solenoid output.
8. Cycle key to rebuild vaccuum.
9. Switch ESOF switch on dash to 4wd. Vaccuum at output of pvh solenoid should now read about 15 in. If it spikes to some vaccuum and bleeds down, or doesnt show vaccuum, change the solenoid valve.
10. Reconnect line to pvh solenoid.
11. The output line of the pvh solenoid turns down towards the passenger side wheel and splits to both hubs. Inside each wheel well is a tee fitting which is the easiest place to test.
12. Plug one of these tees with a golf tee or some other plug.
13. Place gauge into the other tee reading back to the solenoid.
14.Cycle key to build vaccuum.
15. Turn dash switch to 4wd again and check vaccuum gauge. This checks the lines from the solenoid down to each tee.
16. If no leak is found, use the vaccuum tester to pull 15 in of vaccuum on each hub. Do this from the same wheel well tee connection. If leaking here, check line. If line is good, change the three hub seals.
If you find a hub leak, I'll give you some more.
On passenger side wall under the hood, directly behind the battery, is the pulse vaccuum solenoid, vaccuum pump, and vaccuum canister. This procedure looks long, but will take all of about 10 minutes to diagnose your problem.
1. With Key on Engine Off (KOEO), the vaccuum pump should run until canister builds vaccuum. Connect vac tester into line between pump and canister to be used as a gauge.
2. Cycle ket off and on and listen for pump to run. Watch gauge and vaccuum should build and pump shut off. Vaccuum should now hold. If all this checks out, pump is good.
3. Reconnect line from pump to canister.
4. Connect the vac gauge into line going from canister to pvh solenoid mounted on side wall.
5.Cycle the key as before. Vaccuum pump should build vaccuum in canister and hold. If does not hold, leak is in canister.
6.Reconnect line from canister to pvh solenoid.
7. Connect gauge to pvh solenoid output.
8. Cycle key to rebuild vaccuum.
9. Switch ESOF switch on dash to 4wd. Vaccuum at output of pvh solenoid should now read about 15 in. If it spikes to some vaccuum and bleeds down, or doesnt show vaccuum, change the solenoid valve.
10. Reconnect line to pvh solenoid.
11. The output line of the pvh solenoid turns down towards the passenger side wheel and splits to both hubs. Inside each wheel well is a tee fitting which is the easiest place to test.
12. Plug one of these tees with a golf tee or some other plug.
13. Place gauge into the other tee reading back to the solenoid.
14.Cycle key to build vaccuum.
15. Turn dash switch to 4wd again and check vaccuum gauge. This checks the lines from the solenoid down to each tee.
16. If no leak is found, use the vaccuum tester to pull 15 in of vaccuum on each hub. Do this from the same wheel well tee connection. If leaking here, check line. If line is good, change the three hub seals.
If you find a hub leak, I'll give you some more.
mcdaniel1991
Active member
That's awesome thanks for taking the time to write that I'm going to check it tomorrow when I instal the new oil regulator !
Lassie
New member
And just to be clear, the vaccuum tester and vaccuum gauge are the same thing. A hose can be plugged into the tester/pump to be used as a gauge.
I've got five dollars on it being your solenoid too! I've worked on five trucks with this problem and four have had bad solenoids. The op had a bad solenoid too.
Out of 5 I've worked on (including mine)...
2 had bad solenoids only
1 had bad solenoid and one bad hub seal (knuckle seal)
1 had bad solenoid, weak vaccuum pump, leaking hub seal
1 had line off at a tee fitting
So check all of it even if you find a problem at the solenoid
I've got five dollars on it being your solenoid too! I've worked on five trucks with this problem and four have had bad solenoids. The op had a bad solenoid too.
Out of 5 I've worked on (including mine)...
2 had bad solenoids only
1 had bad solenoid and one bad hub seal (knuckle seal)
1 had bad solenoid, weak vaccuum pump, leaking hub seal
1 had line off at a tee fitting
So check all of it even if you find a problem at the solenoid
mcdaniel1991
Active member
Ok will do hopefully the have the gauge on post!
DirtyJerseyStroker
New member
I bought a gauge from good ole harbor freight. I think it was $12.99 or something!
Lassie
New member
Try to get a vaccuum pump, not just a gauge, or you cant test the hub seals. They have those at harbor freight too. Should be $20 - $30 for typical brake bleed kit.
And if you're in Germany, I'd think they have auto parts stores..??..their cars use vaccuum systems too...I think??? The units might be different though! MM of Hg!!
And if you're in Germany, I'd think they have auto parts stores..??..their cars use vaccuum systems too...I think??? The units might be different though! MM of Hg!!
mcdaniel1991
Active member
Never mind
Last edited:
Lassie
New member
mcdaniel1991
Active member
I found one I will be testing everything tomorrow ran out of time today
mcdaniel1991
Active member
Ok I tested the pump ( only pulls 8lbs ) tested canister( it holds the 8lb
) tested pvh (spiked to like 2 and dropped) now this t fitting I can seem to find anywhere
I also found this on my driver side knuckle
) tested pvh (spiked to like 2 and dropped) now this t fitting I can seem to find anywhere
I also found this on my driver side knuckle
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