rear end
- Thread starter johndeerezach
- Start date
JDub
Active member
I loved the True Trac I put in my 2wd truck, wouldn't hesitate buying another one of those.
91turbogsx
Active member
They are more simple than people make them sound. There really is a lack of quality rebuild information on the 10.5/10.25 available on the internet. I was on my own the first time I did one and just took my time and triple checked everything. Now I can breeze through a rebuild.
I figure that as just about everything with mechanical stuff is that way. The only reason I would like to see this first is when you are getting the contact pattern to actually see it and the effects of changes would be really helpful visually as its being done. That is much more helpful that a single angle picture which can be way off depending on shot angle.
As for me if there was someone in driving distance of Winchester that could come over something like that would be night and day better for the first time.
As for me if there was someone in driving distance of Winchester that could come over something like that would be night and day better for the first time.
OSCS
New member
Setting proper Backlash/load is easy so long as you have a good set of feeler gauges.. Although I do it everyday when timing hydraulic fracturing pumps.
91turbogsx
Active member
Backlash you check with a dial indicator. I've never had to use a set of feeler gauges on a 10.5.
OSCS
New member
That's what we use
johndeerezach
New member
yea how do you set a dial indicator on something like an axle when i do them with motors you have a mounting plate.
91turbogsx
Active member
This is from my last full rebuild/TruTrac install.
MilehighEX
New member
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2011
- Messages
- 33
- Reaction score
- 0
definitly a dial indicator not feelers...I guess I stand corrected, on the shiming of a 10.5". It has been a while since I have been in a sterling rear, Dana's use the shims under the carrier bearings...thankyou 91turbogsx
OSCS
New member
We use feeler guages to check the final load and backlash. Our dial indicator is used to adjust the pinon to get desired l/bl I guess essentially it the same thing. Interesting to see how you do it.
When I used to rebuild frac pumps we used feeler gauges as go no go on the slide guides. However pinion was never touched in a rebuild. I do believe hburton pumps are different then other frac companies.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
OSCS
New member
yeah hburton pumps and fluidends are one off designs, not interchangable like SPM,gardner denver etc. On a typical rebuild the pinon doesnt need to be jacked with but sometimes you get a a really messed up one.
johndeerezach
New member
this is what i have found on my searching.http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produ...=&Model=&DriveType=&DiffId=&Source=DiffWizard. im pretty sure that this is what i am going to get. imma call em on monday. :thumbsup:
91turbogsx
Active member
I always get my TruTrac's from Summit. They can ship it to you for less than what Randy's R&P is asking. But for my rebuild kits/bearings I go through them.
what about one of these? http://www.performance4trucks.com/D...dium=froogle&utm_campaign=product&emlprox=out
I got stuck on the boat ramp today and had to take the walk of shame to lock in the hubs to get up the ramp. Now that I have a finned cover need something under it.
I got stuck on the boat ramp today and had to take the walk of shame to lock in the hubs to get up the ramp. Now that I have a finned cover need something under it.
Arisley
Moderator
That's why you always lock in your hubs if you ever think you might need 4X4. Never wait until you need it.
Big Bore
New member
Well apparently.:shrug:
I never back up to launch or pull out a boat without locking hubs. I've seen too many trucks go swimming or unable to pull out. Saw a guy slide backwards into the water while trying to pull forward. I''m sure tires play a part, but a slimy wet ramp doesn't care what kind of tires you have.
As to lockers, as someone who spends almost half his yearly driving time in 4x4 on icy mtn roads, I would never do a rear locker unless it was selectable. And for that matter, using my trucks for heavy work towing and getting into jobsites in mud, snow and rough terrain for almost 20 years, the factory LS has never let me down, so I'm wondering why that isn't an option here? I don't know what the OP's driving conditions are, but if they include ice for a significant amount of time in winter, lockers are a definite no no. I know everytime I do a burnout I leave two long black marks, and anytime the wheels start slipping the LS kicks in quickly.
Just throwing some thoughts and another option to the OP.
Last edited:
Arisley
Moderator
Exactly. When I replaced my spiders, I also replace my LS clutches and plates. Factory was stacked for a lot of slip. I stacked them alternating friction and steel. They are still pulling very strong.
