Single battery

Jbenso127

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I've run a lot with one battery.. In fact, I only have one battery in my duramax right now.. Only thing I notice is the starter does not turn as fast while cranking. But I live in Florida so my glow plugs don't really have to sit there and warm up.
 

gman1

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If you do go with one battery make sure you get the highest CCA battery you can that will fit in the tray.
 

CT9AIX

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this might sound like a dumb question, but would it matter which battery you remove? I know the driver side tray is part of the degas bottle and you'd need to get a custom bottle of some sort... but could you remove that side if you so choose without any ill effects?
 

Zmann

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take out the battery that's step 1

step 2 is make damn sure the positive cable won't find ground so deal with that in a temporary or permanent fashion

I wouldn't do it myself I don't think the factory really wanted to install extra batteries and trays if they weren't a benefit IMHO

i know I can hear mine slow down cranking speed even with two 850 CCA batteries
i would really worry about the tax on the system with 1 batt
 

Zmann

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I went the other way I have three AGM batteries with around 850 CCA's each
 

Dzchey21

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Ive ran with 1 battery for about 3 years now and its fine, the battery needs to be pretty solid in the cold but i have started my race truck with a 4 year old optima @ 0 degrees not plugged in, it didnt turn over super fast but it did fine. much colder and im sure plugging it in would be required.

The passenger side battery is the one that is most common to remove for turbo reasons but in fact the drivers side battery would be better. The starter cable is off the passenger side and is heavier gauge than the cable that crosses over from one side to the other. Plus the shorter the cable the better.

You are right about the battery try/degas bottle tho
 

simonton6.4

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Would it be a good idea to run a big gauge wire straight from the driver side battery. Or would it make any difference
 

Zmann

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Is the 3rd on the frame?

it's in a battery box in my weather guard tool chest it connects automatically when I key on
so it helps start and gets a charge while driving but doesn't equalize when not running with the 2 truck batteries

it basically preforms as a start boost and then it powers a converter for tools in the bed

I have seen the frame rail setup i like that also but this was easy and tamper proof

I have a 6.0 dumping a battery really isn't an option for Mine with the FICM issues low voltage can create
 
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Dzchey21

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Would it be a good idea to run a big gauge wire straight from the driver side battery. Or would it make any difference

I havent tried it to see if cranking speed increases any but im betting it would, i think the cross over cable is 4 gauge and the battery cable is 2 gauge, i could be wrong on that tho.
 

simonton6.4

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I havent tried it to see if cranking speed increases any but im betting it would, i think the cross over cable is 4 gauge and the battery cable is 2 gauge, i could be wrong on that tho.

Ok I'll probably do that when I ditch my battery. On the cross over cable is there anything else that is connected to that? Can you just do away with it? Don't want that live end sitting over there
 

CAT35niner

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I havent tried it to see if cranking speed increases any but im betting it would, i think the cross over cable is 4 gauge and the battery cable is 2 gauge, i could be wrong on that tho.


I believe the starter cable is 3/0 battery cable. It's thick. Might be 4/0. I remember it fighting me when I did my relo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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