some questions on a mild 7.3 build

dommel01

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ok guys a friend of mine has a 95 stroker 5speed he wants to build a workstock pulling truck, just for fun he cant afford a new truck, I am not experienced in the heui, so my questions are...

we wanna get the sniper injection diy 250/100 diy kit, had anyone had any experience with it? seems legit

ok what fuel system is needed to support that? from what I understand a stock sd hpop will support those injectors? is a regulated return really needed? lift pump needed?

also were gonna do the ww2 with a bean quick spool housing, is this an effective setup for the price?

what kind of tuning will be needed, have a standard ts 6pos in it now

sorry for my lack of knowlage on the 7.3
 

dentexpowerstroke

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I wouldn't use anything from sniper. Stock SD pump wont hold pressure look at a walbro, bosch 044 or dual SD pumps. Hpop isn't going to hold pressure either with that size injector. Stock turbo with a ww2 is going to die a very early death with 250s. Basically the setup yall have looked at would work with a stage 1 or 2 but stock type parts dont work at the 250s level. You are basically looking at a pretty built truck to handle that injector. Don't forget youll want valve springs, push rods, and studs too.
 

DocBar

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I wouldn't use anything from sniper. Stock SD pump wont hold pressure look at a walbro, bosch 044 or dual SD pumps. Hpop isn't going to hold pressure either with that size injector. Stock turbo with a ww2 is going to die a very early death with 250s. Basically the setup yall have looked at would work with a stage 1 or 2 but stock type parts dont work at the 250s level. You are basically looking at a pretty built truck to handle that injector. Don't forget youll want valve springs, push rods, and studs too.
After reading what Strictly and Walbro say about the Walbro pumps, I wouldn't recommend using them. They aren't rated for diesel fuel. Personally, I'd do the dual stock set up even though I've had good luck, so far with the FueLab.
 

always-strokin

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I wouldn't use anything from sniper. Stock SD pump wont hold pressure look at a walbro, bosch 044 or dual SD pumps. Hpop isn't going to hold pressure either with that size injector. Stock turbo with a ww2 is going to die a very early death with 250s. Basically the setup yall have looked at would work with a stage 1 or 2 but stock type parts dont work at the 250s level. You are basically looking at a pretty built truck to handle that injector. Don't forget youll want valve springs, push rods, and studs too.

You suggest springs/push rods/studs w/ only 200/30's???
 

Rmartin-97

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I'd do some unlimited hybrids 250/100's and d66. With a good aero motive fuel system. That should make good power and be stock appearing. I'd steer clear of anything sniper though. There is lots of reputable injector builders.

Then I'd have some gearhead tunes put on ur ts chip. Throw studs valve springs and pushrods in it. Also a dual disk clutch. And an srp1 oil pump.
 

lincolnlocker

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You suggest springs/push rods/studs w/ only 200/30's???

maybe not studs but springs and pushrods, yes definitely!! i went the cheap route once.... with just 170/100s and have valve marks on all of my stock pistons. bent 8 pushrods along the way... now im over 8k in having my motor rebuilt... but a couple thousand is labor and i added a couple more things over stock..

live life full throttle
 

greenthunder7.3

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I'd do some unlimited hybrids 250/100's and d66. With a good aero motive fuel system. That should make good power and be stock appearing. I'd steer clear of anything sniper though. There is lots of reputable injector builders.

Then I'd have some gearhead tunes put on ur ts chip. Throw studs valve springs and pushrods in it. Also a dual disk clutch. And an srp1 oil pump.

this one
 

dommel01

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ok, how about rosewood injectors? they seem reasonably priced

so will like the adrenaline hpop or termintor t500 work for oil?
 

always-strokin

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maybe not studs but springs and pushrods, yes definitely!! i went the cheap route once.... with just 170/100s and have valve marks on all of my stock pistons. bent 8 pushrods along the way... now im over 8k in having my motor rebuilt... but a couple thousand is labor and i added a couple more things over stock..

live life full throttle

Well **** man... thats nuts. What exactly causes the valves to touch the pistons w/ only bigger injectors? As in whats different from stock other than more fueling, to cause the contact?
 

JD3020

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maybe not studs but springs and pushrods, yes definitely!! i went the cheap route once.... with just 170/100s and have valve marks on all of my stock pistons. bent 8 pushrods along the way... now im over 8k in having my motor rebuilt... but a couple thousand is labor and i added a couple more things over stock..

live life full throttle

Let me guess, all were exhaust valves?


Springs are cheap, no reason to not do em really. $150 or less for a set of 910's, any needed shims, and a micrometer. I dont' remember my exact specs, but i wanna say i'm running around 140lbs of seat pressure. I'll be damned if i can float the valves. LOL
 

JD3020

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Stock pushrods and how much hp/tq do you have? Do you tow often?

IDK, running 2's on a stock charger, so not much. I'd say 350-400 at the wheels on a good day. And yes I tow a good bit. I should be fine, as i shouldn't encounter any sort of valve to piston contact, but who knows.


I really need to tear my old engine down, as i ran the living piss out of it with injectors, tunes, and stock everything else. Didn't even have gauges for 8k miles when i had AD's in ti. Spent many many miles with my foot to the floor, and don't know how many times it saw 40+psi until my up-pipe leaks got bad. Be really interesting to see what the pistons look like.
 

lincolnlocker

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Well **** man... thats nuts. What exactly causes the valves to touch the pistons w/ only bigger injectors? As in whats different from stock other than more fueling, to cause the contact?


rpm's and boost




More boost pushing the valve down and the spring not having enough pressure to return it would be my guess


along with rpm's




Let me guess, all were exhaust valves?


Springs are cheap, no reason to not do em really. $150 or less for a set of 910's, any needed shims, and a micrometer. I dont' remember my exact specs, but i wanna say i'm running around 140lbs of seat pressure. I'll be damned if i can float the valves. LOL


no not all exhaust valves.... forgot to add i broke 2 rockers also.




at what boost pressure would you want to start getting diff valve springs, push tubes and such?
anything over stock... many bone stock motors have valve marks....


live life full throttle
 

always-strokin

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But if you aren't running more rpms than the 3800-4,000rpm redline, that technically shouldnt' be an issue right?
 

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