Speakers in the rear doors of a crew cab

AKHILF · Dec 29, 2011

Whats your guy's thought on mounting some 6.5's in the door of our crew cabs? I have a huge box behind me seat and the rear speakers are pretty close to it so i figure putting upgraded speakers in that location would be a waste.

907DAVE · Dec 29, 2011

There are many opinions on adding rear fill, most say not to - it messes up your sound imaging or something like that...lol.

There was a member on PSN who had some speaker pods made up that looked decent, I'll see if I can find it.

907DAVE · Dec 29, 2011

Here ya go....

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23770&highlight=rear+door+speakers

AKHILF · Dec 31, 2011

Huh. That makes a lot of sense. I guess i'll just leave the backs stock. The fronts sound really good to me. And I sat in the back seat and it also sounds good. I really need to figure out an alt for the truck. I have way to much going off the stocker.

HD F250 · Dec 31, 2011

My truck has about $4k worth of high end stereo equipment (amp, front separates) and they left stock speakers in rear. I will be upgrading them when I get home, but I will just upgrade stock location because it is just rear fill. The stocks speakers distort when I really turn up volume, so that is a thought for you.....

6.0dirtworker · Dec 31, 2011

Just put these in. Now I can turn up the highs alot more. Not near the distortion the stockers had.

AKHILF · Dec 31, 2011

Well so far my stockers are not distorting and i'v really turned up the volume. Its all about tuning the amp for your front components. I like it and think my system is very loud. Loudest i'v heard in a cc truck with a seat still. And the couple shop owners I know agree. When the subs are turned all the way up its dumb. One of the best things i'v done yet was dynamat... I spent all last night and a lot of today doing the whole truck and I cant believe how much it helped...

AKHILF · Dec 31, 2011

I still have a set of 6.5 components I just bought to put back there but after hearing it today i'm not putting them in. I guess i'll just throw them in the harley

6.0dirtworker · Dec 31, 2011

I was real impressed on how my stock system sounded after I tuned the deck and amps. But now after putting in the mm's, its borderline ear piercing. I felt like it was overkill with the coaxials but I did them since I got them wholesale. Im about to make my second box for under the seat for 3 10s and make an amp rack inside the rear seat. I was on the fence about putting dynomat everywhere, but now after your opinion on it, I'm definitely going to do it.

PTSUPERD · Dec 31, 2011

I have Hertz coaxs in stock location in the rear. I leave the seat back folded down when nobody is riding. Great rear fill.

AKHILF · Dec 31, 2011

My box is behind the rear seat and the seats moved forward around 3 inches. Its a huge box haha each L7 12 has 1 cubic foot. And the zx2500.1 takes up 3/4's under my seat and my component amp takes the rest. And yeah man I will for ever be a believer on dynomat. The only thing not covered in my truck is under the front seats. I did the whole back wall and covered the vents and to the front seats. I did the whole roof and that was a pain but well worth it. Pulled all the pillar covers off and did behind them. And one of the most important things is on the doors. Cover as much as possible on the outer door skin. Stick your hands through all the holes. I got everything but it took a bit of doing. And make sure you have a patch behind the speaker on the skin for sure. Then I covered the whole inner door panel and cut the tabs for the door panel and laid them over on them selfs. I cant believe how much it helped me. Even just closing the doors you can tell its solid. Oh and i have the fuel gauge and compass up on the roof and that use to rattle the worst. I put as much dynomat on the inner and outer piece for that as i could with it still fitting on and it wont rattle anymore. If you buy two of the bulk packs that are 36 sq ft you will use almost all of it. Good luck and take your time.

6.0dirtworker · Dec 31, 2011

Thanks for the tips man, I'll get on it. and congrats on your killer setup :thumbsup:

UNBROKEN · Jan 1, 2012

Monstar said:
Just put these in. Now I can turn up the highs alot more. Not near the distortion the stockers had.

I hope there's a baffle behind those to mount them solid to the door, not just the door panel?
If not...you really need to add one and screw it all solid to together.
A speaker just mounted to the door panel cannot possibly play right...the cone movement will just make everything vibrate, if you want solid midbass it needs to be mounted solid.

UNBROKEN · Jan 1, 2012

AKHILF said:
My box is behind the rear seat and the seats moved forward around 3 inches. Its a huge box haha each L7 12 has 1 cubic foot. And the zx2500.1 takes up 3/4's under my seat and my component amp takes the rest. And yeah man I will for ever be a believer on dynomat. The only thing not covered in my truck is under the front seats. I did the whole back wall and covered the vents and to the front seats. I did the whole roof and that was a pain but well worth it. Pulled all the pillar covers off and did behind them. And one of the most important things is on the doors. Cover as much as possible on the outer door skin. Stick your hands through all the holes. I got everything but it took a bit of doing. And make sure you have a patch behind the speaker on the skin for sure. Then I covered the whole inner door panel and cut the tabs for the door panel and laid them over on them selfs. I cant believe how much it helped me. Even just closing the doors you can tell its solid. Oh and i have the fuel gauge and compass up on the roof and that use to rattle the worst. I put as much dynomat on the inner and outer piece for that as i could with it still fitting on and it wont rattle anymore. If you buy two of the bulk packs that are 36 sq ft you will use almost all of it. Good luck and take your time.

Couldn't agree more on the dampener. I have about 250 ft^3 in my truck. All interior panels twice, 2 layers on the inner and outter door skin, backside of all interior plastics are done, inside the dash...everywhere.
If you want your front to sound even better, take the door panels off and cover all of the large holes with metal filler panels covered in dampener. Sealing the doors is a huge step towards better midbass response.

PTSUPERD · Jan 1, 2012

Agreed. My doors are dampened. Hertz 6.5s actually surprised me with the midbass.

UNBROKEN · Jan 1, 2012

Pop the door panels off and cover those big holes Gare...it'll get even better.
2 hour job at most after a trip to the hardware store.

PTSUPERD · Jan 1, 2012

UNBROKEN said:
Pop the door panels off and cover those big holes Gare...it'll get even better.
2 hour job at most after a trip to the hardware store.

Sounds like a cool project

UNBROKEN · Jan 1, 2012

It's well worth the effort. just cut some thin sheet metal a hair bigger than the holes, cover both sides with dynamat or whatever to deaden it, some foam weatherstrip around it for a gasket then screw the pieces to the door. You're isolating the front wave of the driver from the rear wave...making it as close to a true infinite baffle design as is possible in a door.

6.0dirtworker · Jan 1, 2012

UNBROKEN said:
I hope there's a baffle behind those to mount them solid to the door, not just the door panel?
If not...you really need to add one and screw it all solid to together.
A speaker just mounted to the door panel cannot possibly play right...the cone movement will just make everything vibrate, if you want solid midbass it needs to be mounted solid.

They are mounted to the door. I had to use longer screws for all of them to catch.

AKHILF · Jan 1, 2012

I was thinking about the big holes the whole time I was doing it. But it was after midnight by the time I got to the doors and the stores were closed. I work at the alaska steel and all I do all day is run the plasma table. Im going to make some cardboard templates and burn some out and cover all them up just didnt have time to this weekend.