96stacked&smoken
New member
I would like to do this but my regulator looks different?
Tightwad mod, fuel bowl delete and regulated return diy.
- Thread starter JoeDaddy
- Start date
JoeDaddy
New member
I've done it with both the brass and black plastic chamber. It's the same principle. If you have a regulator then it can be done.
96stacked&smoken
New member
Ah ok. Also does your filter setup filter as good as a stock setup? Didnt know what micron rating a stock filter is.
JoeDaddy
New member
Better IMO.
96stacked&smoken
New member
Really wanting to do this now as my pump is about to **** the bed anyway so il be right there.
Mine is in the connector on the pass side. It pigtails off after fpr, heater, water Sep. Maybe mine just different
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purpleheart350
New member
Um I thought the IPR was on the HPOP!!!! Call me crazy.
96stacked&smoken
New member
It is but the wiring for it isnt.lol
purpleheart350
New member
????
96stacked&smoken
New member
The wireing pigtail. The ipr itself is what goes on the hpop.
Yea the pigtail is what I meant ha ha. The ipr is on the hpop but it's signal comes from that connect and with it unplugged truck will not start. I found that out the hard way.
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purpleheart350
New member
Ok gotcha. So is it different from certain years. I don't remember JoeDaddy saying anything about it. I am swapping hoops this weekend and I might try this mod.
JoeDaddy
New member
To be clear... All of the wiring to the fuel bowl can be unplugged from the fuel bowl. The ipr wiring is not connected directly to the fuel bowl, it is however routed along with the fb wires and may be attached to the fb..
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Yup. I too will be doing this and have read up on it and will snap some pics for future reference. Seems like there were some other differances from.
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jstann
New member
So the benefit to this mod is to ditch the stock filter and put an inline one in ?
just did this mod a little differant. mine didn't have the bowl, just the brass plug. I completly gutted it, drilled and tapped for 1/8 npt like he did. only thing differant, was i didn't cut up the old regulator. I wanted to save the bolt holes so I could mount the regulator. I did have to make new lines comming off of the front of the head that would reach the regulator in a mounted position. Also kicking around the idea and havent done it yet, but the brass plug that holds in the spring, was thinking of drilling and taping, using a 1/4" all thread with lock nut and copper washer behind the nut so the pressure could be adjusted easily.
