Get some.brass manifold donuts for a sb chevy and sandwich them in the joint and tighten the bolts, no more leaks.
towing upgrades
- Thread starter Needinajeep
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Get some.brass manifold donuts for a sb chevy and sandwich them in the joint and tighten the bolts, no more leaks.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
a stocker will run those injectors just fine ty.... lol... what was not mentioned is that they wont perform to the max potential and be way shy of what they are capable of in order to keep dc low and oil psi up.. in other words they will be detuned..
live life full throttle
Ron's Power Stroke
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Thats akin to saying "a paper sack is as good as a toilet except its not comfortable, wont flush, and it stinks." In otra palabras, no trabaja.
always-strokin
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Needinajeep
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Sorry guys, just realized I do not have my sig on this forum.
Before I say anything, I am probably not nearly as knowledgeable as some of you. I spoke with Bill before getting my injectors, tunes etc. I specifically asked about needing a bigger hpop. He said a stock hpop is plenty for 250/100s and 250/200s. If I were to have issues, then a better pump would be needed. I do not know if you guys know who Curtis frost is, but he runs 250/200s with a 38r on a stock hpop without issue.
I had no issues running my stock pump on my 250/100s with pius s366 from irate with Bills or Jonathons tunes. Im supposedly pushing 500hp on pmrs. The only reason I did the srp1.1 was to confirm for myself.
I never had an issue holding 2800-3000 psi or whatever was called for from the tunes. I also did not feel any difference. I was told the truck should run smoother, possibly quieter, etc but nothing from my experience.
There is no doubt that I will not have to worry with my srp1.1 but it also was not needed.
I think the guys that do see a difference is because their stock pumps were not healthy enough for the task. Also big injectors like the 250/200s do not require nearly as much as stock injectors.
I still would not do a bigger pump unless something is wrong with the stock pump, then I would just do the t500 imo.
Before I say anything, I am probably not nearly as knowledgeable as some of you. I spoke with Bill before getting my injectors, tunes etc. I specifically asked about needing a bigger hpop. He said a stock hpop is plenty for 250/100s and 250/200s. If I were to have issues, then a better pump would be needed. I do not know if you guys know who Curtis frost is, but he runs 250/200s with a 38r on a stock hpop without issue.
I had no issues running my stock pump on my 250/100s with pius s366 from irate with Bills or Jonathons tunes. Im supposedly pushing 500hp on pmrs. The only reason I did the srp1.1 was to confirm for myself.
I never had an issue holding 2800-3000 psi or whatever was called for from the tunes. I also did not feel any difference. I was told the truck should run smoother, possibly quieter, etc but nothing from my experience.
There is no doubt that I will not have to worry with my srp1.1 but it also was not needed.
I think the guys that do see a difference is because their stock pumps were not healthy enough for the task. Also big injectors like the 250/200s do not require nearly as much as stock injectors.
I still would not do a bigger pump unless something is wrong with the stock pump, then I would just do the t500 imo.
Sorry to double post but I wanted to add my experience with the sct 1705 I used to have because of what Joe mentioned.
I think its ok for what it is but im not too sure about being safe. I guess overall, yes but I had high egts with mine also. Egts were bad like when I had dp tunes too, lol.
For the avg guy looking for something more than stock, easy to use, plus read codes and clear: its a good unit.
Knowing what I do now, I would just do a ts style chip or the hydra.
For the op, depending on how bad your exhaust leaks are could contribute but most likely on the boost side or even with the edge unit. I will have to reread the info you provided.
I had leaky up-pipes and exhaust manifolds. When I fixed them I do not recall seeing any improvements. Changing to php tunes solved my egt issues and a new guage fixed my loss in boost. However I only lost a few lbs, not 10-12.
I'll go back through the thread before I say more.
On the videos, how fast did you get to when your egts got to 1200? I do not recall a speed on the first video
I think its ok for what it is but im not too sure about being safe. I guess overall, yes but I had high egts with mine also. Egts were bad like when I had dp tunes too, lol.
For the avg guy looking for something more than stock, easy to use, plus read codes and clear: its a good unit.
Knowing what I do now, I would just do a ts style chip or the hydra.
For the op, depending on how bad your exhaust leaks are could contribute but most likely on the boost side or even with the edge unit. I will have to reread the info you provided.
I had leaky up-pipes and exhaust manifolds. When I fixed them I do not recall seeing any improvements. Changing to php tunes solved my egt issues and a new guage fixed my loss in boost. However I only lost a few lbs, not 10-12.
I'll go back through the thread before I say more.
On the videos, how fast did you get to when your egts got to 1200? I do not recall a speed on the first video
Sorry, can't edit my last post.
Just to clarify, your egts and boost have been fine until recently? The only thing that has changed recently is you pulled the ds ic pipe off to fix a hydro boost line?
I take it you do not have autoenginuity. If you did, you could verify boost to a degree against your edge unit.
Can your sct read codes?
Maybe your wastegate actuator took a dump on you. Iirc, you can pull the red line off the actuator and plug it. If you gain some boost back, then you need to adjust or replace the actuator.
I would try that as its only a 5sec deal plus a quick test drive. Then get back to the boost leak test. When you do the boost leak test, also spray the solenoid on the front of the intake spider. Its the piece mounted to the spider that has the green and red lines going to it. Those are known to leak/fsil as well but most likely not your issue.
Just to clarify, your egts and boost have been fine until recently? The only thing that has changed recently is you pulled the ds ic pipe off to fix a hydro boost line?
I take it you do not have autoenginuity. If you did, you could verify boost to a degree against your edge unit.
Can your sct read codes?
Maybe your wastegate actuator took a dump on you. Iirc, you can pull the red line off the actuator and plug it. If you gain some boost back, then you need to adjust or replace the actuator.
I would try that as its only a 5sec deal plus a quick test drive. Then get back to the boost leak test. When you do the boost leak test, also spray the solenoid on the front of the intake spider. Its the piece mounted to the spider that has the green and red lines going to it. Those are known to leak/fsil as well but most likely not your issue.
always-strokin
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Ya your right, nobody with superchips or edge canned tunes has EVER had high egt's. Get real.
Your an idiot...
There not "known" for high EGT's...
I ran a superchips for years, more then likely before you knew what a diesel truck was. No issues with it, Hell my 96 never had gauges and I ran the 1705 on the performance setting towing all over the country.
Another guy that knows nothing but what he has read on the interwebs.
always-strokin
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Did you skip over that INFRL guy who had the same tuner and said his ran high egt's too? Guess we're both lying.
Again, you're an idiot...
EVERY TRUCK WITH EGT ISSUES is not because of the tune.
There are thousands upon thousands of Superchip 1705's and 1715's on the market, thousands upon thousands of Edge units on the market...
There not known for high EGT's.
Stick to what you know, the KKK bylaws should be a good topic for you.
always-strokin
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See below
Seems like you are probably more intuned to these "kkk bylaws" than me, no?
powerlifter405
Active member
So you're gonna spend several hundred all the misc stuff and it really won't fix your problem.
The 7.3 up-pipes leak, when mine started to go, my EGTs started to rise. Really IMHO, spend the $$ and do it right the 1st time.
IF you're dead set on the dormans, then so be it, but I will be getting IH bellowed uppipes IF I stay w/ the 38R.
Stock you should see above 15psi but w/ a tuner you should be way above that. I saw 30+ all day long when I ran both my diablo and TS.
IMHO, I'd keep it simple. If you have to DD, get some SB chevy donuts to fix the leak for now. SAVE up the few extra hundred, get the 38R, you maybe even might be able to find one used as someone upgrades.
I'm looking at going w/ compounds when I go back to a 7.3 but IF I was to stay w/ stock or small singles, I'd use IH up-pipes a 38R and call it good.
Great response and most importantly, reliable if you keep boost #'s @ 40lbs or less.
OH, check your HPOP orings, @ 75K my HPOP orings were leaking bad. dieselorings has a great price and the service is top notch.
Fix your boost leak first, get some quality "custom" tunes and start there.
Good luck.
Needinajeep
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Infrnl - my boost and EGT have Not recently gone down lately. The truck has run the same since I bought it.
While I was trying to check for a leak the wastegate actuator kept running nonstop. I never saw any boost show on my edge unit. Not sure what autoenginuity is.
I don't have a SCT I only have a edge insight CS for gauges
powerlifter - I agree. I didn't realize my boost was low and my egts are too high. This is my first 7.3 and wasn't sure what they should be. I'm in the process of
1. trying to find any leaks and order new IC hoses if needed.
2. I found oil leaks at dipstick housing, ebpv pedestal, and somewhere up top near intakes. So I need to run down leaks and fix them
3. I plan on ordering Dorman up-pipes and hydra tomorrow.
If all is well after that I will probably order a 38R
While I was trying to check for a leak the wastegate actuator kept running nonstop. I never saw any boost show on my edge unit. Not sure what autoenginuity is.
I don't have a SCT I only have a edge insight CS for gauges
powerlifter - I agree. I didn't realize my boost was low and my egts are too high. This is my first 7.3 and wasn't sure what they should be. I'm in the process of
1. trying to find any leaks and order new IC hoses if needed.
2. I found oil leaks at dipstick housing, ebpv pedestal, and somewhere up top near intakes. So I need to run down leaks and fix them
3. I plan on ordering Dorman up-pipes and hydra tomorrow.
If all is well after that I will probably order a 38R
Ok, I must be losing my mind, lol.
So you have no tunes at all.
In this case, you definitely have something wrong as the others have said. Your boost is only off by a few lbs as Joe said.
Did you spray soapy water when you were blowing air through the system? Even though you lose air through the ccv, it should still be pressurizing the system.
Also see if you can fix the up pipes and see what that does for you.
Autoenginuity is a diagnostic software/program. It comes in handy for working on our trucks. It can do quite a bit of stuff
I think if you find and fix your leaks like everyone has mentioned, you will be back on track.
Old OutLaw
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FIRST.....get a Good small flashlight (mini-maglight with new batts), and crawl under your truck and look CLOSELY for soot around the uppipes, AND THE EXHAUST PORTS.
if you find ANY soot, these two areas must be fixed first.
then pull the intake side off your turbo and look at the wheel to see if it's messed up....if it is, you need a turbo...check to see how much End play and Side play you have in the shaft-to-bushing. any more than a couple Thousandths is too much....
if all this stuff checks out - gets fixed -etc. THEN AND THEN ONLY move on to changing parts.
if you find ANY soot, these two areas must be fixed first.
then pull the intake side off your turbo and look at the wheel to see if it's messed up....if it is, you need a turbo...check to see how much End play and Side play you have in the shaft-to-bushing. any more than a couple Thousandths is too much....
if all this stuff checks out - gets fixed -etc. THEN AND THEN ONLY move on to changing parts.
