Trac bars or Ladder bars

2wd-fire

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Which is why I stated 99% of traction bars dont function as they should. Travel is limited and binding occurs

So how are the ouo bars better than pizza pigs the only difference I can see Is that the ouo bars have the rubber mouthed part up front and pizza has his at the rear axel.
 

Pizza pig

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Jared is right, the OUO bars will let the truck act in ALL situations like a truck should. But I didn't want to spend the money, plus Im not trying to replicate an OUO bar here LOL. These my buddy built serve there purpose for ME, im not trying to flex my truck or go off road. On the street and the strip they let the truck shift right, all I want them to do. The way mine are built, allows them to align perfectly parallel with the axle like they're supposed to without making them so damn long they look stupid. Mine are made from 2.5" OD 1/4" wall thick DOM tubing. The laser cut brackets are welded to the frame where the rubber joint it, there are stainless heim joints on the bolted on frame side. I get ZERO noise/sqeak with mine. They actually made my truck right a crap load better, and more stable on the highway. No sway in the rear end when I hit a big bump.
 

TheReelMuhcoy

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maybe I am blind, but i do not see much of a difference between the OUO and Greg's ladder bars other than some reinforcing arch... I will likely make my own set in the near future.
 

2wd-fire

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Jared is right, the OUO bars will let the truck act in ALL situations like a truck should. But I didn't want to spend the money, plus Im not trying to replicate an OUO bar here LOL. These my buddy built serve there purpose for ME, im not trying to flex my truck or go off road. On the street and the strip they let the truck shift right, all I want them to do. The way mine are built, allows them to align perfectly parallel with the axle like they're supposed to without making them so damn long they look stupid. Mine are made from 2.5" OD 1/4" wall thick DOM tubing. The laser cut brackets are welded to the frame where the rubber joint it, there are stainless heim joints on the bolted on frame side. I get ZERO noise/sqeak with mine. They actually made my truck right a crap load better, and more stable on the highway. No sway in the rear end when I hit a big bump.

how long are total do you know from the pic look about 5 feet?
 

TheReelMuhcoy

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Was not aware that there was a difference between ladder and traction bars, fill me in if you would.

How would one go about determining the proper length of ladder/traction bars?
 

SAK

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Was not aware that there was a difference between ladder and traction bars, fill me in if you would.

Ladder bars use two mounting points on the axle

How would one go about determining the proper length of ladder/traction bars?

You figure put what the path of travel the axle takes and mimic it with the bar.



Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2
 

05wh250

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A ladder bar has two points of contact at the axle. A traction bar has only one.

I always heard the general rule was to go about where the half shaft on the driveshaft is so mine are right at 6 feet long
 

Pizza pig

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Mine were made so they were parallel with the driveshaft, can't remember length ill have to double check


Helen Keller sent this?
 

TheReelMuhcoy

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Greg,
How long have you had those bars on your truck? A buddy of mine was telling me that incorrectly made bars can "break" your drive shaft in half (not quite sure how he meant that). Assuming that your siding exposure is 6.5" that would put your bars at about 6'. Ill hop under my truck tomorrow and measure from under the axel to the universal joint in the drive shaft, considering that you have a short bed and I have a long bed.
 

Powerstroked162

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I will never own anything besides OUO. Works waaaay to good and looks too damn nice not to keep buying sets for my trucks. Thanks Mike!!
 

strokin6L

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what type of OUO bars are most of you guys getting? What i mean is what bar/mount setup? Are they the bolt on type or the weld on type. I've been running these http://www.jcwhitney.com/ladder-bars/p2010219.jcwx for over 6 years with no issues. They bolt to the rear axle....figured they were easier to mount than welding something to the axle. But i wouldn't mind getting better ones like the OUO if they're alot better.
 

TheReelMuhcoy

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Ok so I have all the links, tube adapters etc. put together which comes to about $240. I can pick up the DOM pipe locally. Assuming the online prices are relatively close to the local guys the DOM pipe shouldn't be more than $150 for 20' and I think I'm going to use .250" wall thickness material.

Does anyone know the length from center of attachment point to center of attachment point, on their OUO's or similar for a f350 CCLB? Also specify which style of bar you are using. All help here is appreciated.
 

Breaking Habits

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what type of OUO bars are most of you guys getting? What i mean is what bar/mount setup? Are they the bolt on type or the weld on type. I've been running these http://www.jcwhitney.com/ladder-bars/p2010219.jcwx for over 6 years with no issues. They bolt to the rear axle....figured they were easier to mount than welding something to the axle. But i wouldn't mind getting better ones like the OUO if they're alot better.

Chris,

The most common thing my customers are doing is the F Top Plate Conversion.

You put a new top plate on there and flip the U bolts down like a 2011+ truck, then replace the bottom plate of the axle with a traction bar mount. Its the cleanest way to do it, and cheaper than traction blocks
 

sootie

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Jared,
do you have pics or a link where i can see this setup
 

SAK

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One Up Offroad Bolt-On Traction Bars w/U-Bolt Flip - 1999-2010 F250/F350 2 & 4wd

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t_bar_adaptable_bolt_v2_2b_79_detail.jpg

t_bar_adaptable_bolt_v2_3b_471_detail.jpg
 

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