Trans codes cel... Any helps apeiceated

slc6oh

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Had one weird shift yesterday, didnt think anything of it, went to the track tonight, clicked off two 95mph passes. Meh, 3rd run i tried i think alittle too hard to light the turbo at the tree, straight to rev limiter upon shifting into 5th locked. Peddled it a d it kept pulling.

Pulled around noticed trans was 215 (its never been that hot) t/h flashing. Let it run in the pits till it cooled , cleared code went to leave...upon trying to shift into 5th revs real high and bangs into 3rd, back and fourth a few times between all the lower gears, t/h starts flashing and cel on this time, now stuck in 5th (cts showing 4th) come to a stop stays in 5th, smoke an entire city block out getting to speed but it gets there then locks the converter as should. Revurse still works and manually shifting it it even still just stays in 5th... Assume i need a trans. Faaak. Anyone care to chine in??
bbcccfb17300078d66f9ff4d6d831218.jpg
 

slc6oh

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Bump.

Also can anyone chime in on using a 6.4 trans,converter and flexplate on the 6.0??
Keep reading the converter is bigger, Whitch i could see as a plus. Then the obvious of filter and deeper pan.

Would the starter still work with the new flex plate?

What about tuning?

Theres several cheap-ish used transmissions local just weighing my options
 

Zmann

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6.4 option will cost you a hundred dollar flex plate if you want to go that route the 6.4 uses 8 vs 6 bolts but i don't think it is "bigger"

the 6.4 converter supposedly has a little higher stall and a few transmission improvements
the 6.4 if you get the in pan filter not the bell housing can style bastard is an upgrade for sure but you can do that to any 6.0 for cheap

yes the starter works with either

Mark K can probably comment on your codes but to save everyone time do the research and list them out
 
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Zmann

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if you fluid is cruded up your going to want to get a new OTA cooler and flush the lower cooler and lines well
 

slc6oh

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Yea i need to check that all still (oil ect) its gonna be monday night before i can pull it apart. Just from the dipstick it dont look burnt or smell burnt but i know better than to think thats telling me much of anything. As far as the size goes I just keep reading stock 6.4 converter is 13" & 12" for 6.0
 

Zmann

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it might be little bigger diameter but IDK what that would help ?
but I wouldn't go out of my way to do a 6.4 I also had that option
but stayed with a 6.0 just get a later model if you go 6.0
 

Zmann

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your codes are in order u listed
MIL Light request
solenoid stuck C performance or stuck off
solenoid stuck D " "
friction element C Apply time range / performance
friction element D "
"
 

slc6oh

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Whitch sucks cause maybe 7500 sense new fluid/filter and empire dc solenoid. I get the little extra power i make vs. the stock turbos gonna be harder on it, but ****. 4,000 mi on this setup is all. Hopefully trans was already on its way out and not due to tuning/shift points or something.

But i know standing on the brake getting on the turbo that long getting everything that hot I'm sure didn't help anything at all
 

Zmann

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mine just went at 117,000 and it never even did more than about 4 burnouts lol

fluids were always fresh and it had an extra 7 qts plus an 08 filter

still when it chit it loaded everything with heavy metal fluid and shards


how many miles did you have ?
 

Zmann

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shame
wonder if my tunes lead to an early demise ?
I only tow with a tow tune
 

slc6oh

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And ive been back and forth between tunes alot lately trying to get the non vgt dialed in
 

slc6oh

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When you did 08 pan/filter did you leave the factory filter in place?

Looking at trans local and theres several used joints but all with the same miles, if i go with a used 08-10 trans/converter, and just get a 6.4 flex plate, would i pull the factory filter and just use the internal one in the new trans? (If i end up with one from a 6.4)
 

Zmann

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most people leave the TP filter when they do the 08 pan filter since it's in a diferent circuit and and filters only a small percent of fluid

just don't forget to change it every so often .

a brand new OEM flexplate is like a hundred bucks

or used is fine if it looks ok
just make sure to get new nuts and bolts for the TC and flex plate
 

slc6oh

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Got the new trans in and going runs/shifts as should, has aftermarket converter, (precision) but something lugs the engine down pretty good when im sitting at a light, like not kill it bad but its noticeable and definately harder too keep stopped, I've read that the tcc solenoid is controlling that, is there any tune changes to make it not so tight? Or am i lookin at a weak pump or something?
 

sootie

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Got the new trans in and going runs/shifts as should, has aftermarket converter, (precision) but something lugs the engine down pretty good when im sitting at a light, like not kill it bad but its noticeable and definately harder too keep stopped, I've read that the tcc solenoid is controlling that, is there any tune changes to make it not so tight? Or am i lookin at a weak pump or something?

Those symptoms are caused by a tight converter-nothing else.

On my six four, the converter was so tight if i didnt push the brakes hard enough at a stoplight in the snow, the back wheels would spin.

i could be wrong but i thought the tcc solenoid is what engaged lockup. the clutches inside the converter are what make it tight with it unlocked.
 

Zmann

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you can bump the idle rpm up with the SCT if that will help
 

slc6oh

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Cool, yea ive got a stock converter coming, so i can have a truck to drive while the precision is out getting worked or whatever.
 

Zmann

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but it won't die when you load on the accessory load ;-)

i would be pissed if I had to pull the converter I would just leave it stock

that
 

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