Trans slipping/shifting hard

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Hey guys, looking for some insight and help before I take the truck into the tranny shop who did my rebuild to get diagnosed. I have a 96 f350 trans was built in 2015. Im having issue with what i believe is the torque converter. The one that was installed on the rebuild was a precision industries triple disc converter. Back in 2016 i was having issue where it was bucking and going into limp mode and got to around 210* a few times while empty. Changed the trs and it helped somewhat. Then i found a few wires shorted on the tranny wiring i fixed and that helped as well. But it never felt quiet right. fast forward to now, truck lurches and the rpms drop way down to the point of almost stalling completely when i first fire it up and put it in reverse or drive as well as slipping going into o/d. the first 2 shifts are smooth and i barely feel them. I have autoengenuity and forscan scanners to check for codes and other pids. However i have no codes or cel. The od light is not blinking either. Are there any tests i can do to rule out some possible issues? I was thinking maybe the map sensor, barometric sensor could be possible issue? or the trs again? I checked my 3rd brake light and all bulbs as well knowing the issues they cause on the e4od. At this point may be better off bringing it to the pros to diagnosis. Any insight is greatly appreciated!
 
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Hey guys, looking for some insight and help before I take the truck into the tranny shop who did my rebuild to get diagnosed. I have a 96 f350 trans was built in 2015. Im having issue with what i believe is the torque converter. The one that was installed on the rebuild was a precision industries triple disc converter. Back in 2016 i was having issue where it was bucking and going into limp mode and got to around 210* a few times while empty. Changed the trs and it helped somewhat. Then i found a few wires shorted on the tranny wiring i fixed and that helped as well. But it never felt quiet right. fast forward to now, truck lurches and the rpms drop way down to the point of almost stalling completely when i first fire it up and put it in reverse or drive as well as slipping going into o/d. the first 2 shifts are smooth and i barely feel them. I have autoengenuity and forscan scanners to check for codes and other pids. However i have no codes or cel. The od light is not blinking either. Are there any tests i can do to rule out some possible issues? I was thinking maybe the map sensor, barometric sensor could be possible issue? or the trs again? I checked my 3rd brake light and all bulbs as well knowing the issues they cause on the e4od. At this point may be better off bringing it to the pros to diagnosis. Any insight is greatly appreciated!

Have you checked the fluid yet? Is it full, burned, overfull, etc?


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Have you checked the fluid yet? Is it full, burned, overfull, etc?


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The fluid and pan looked fine I also changed the filter thinking that it came unseated thinking that may be my issue but it did not fix it.
 
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MAP and BARO should be reading about the same (as each other) at both KOEO and Idle. Cheers!
First one is idle 2nd is key on engine off is that too far apart? Bad map sensor?
 

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Those are fine, they’re reading the same psi wise. Guessing you live at sea level, or damn near?


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Went out to plow this morning and they did not move at all while driving. Should they be moving under load?

Map should move based on however much boost you’re making. And I think that’s what the map obd pid is on your list. It would actually be boost. So at 10 psi of boost, map should read around 24.8, and the map that reads 0 should be 10. If your map isn’t moving, check the hose for attachment to either the sensor or the plenum. Also check it for a restriction by blowing thru it. If the hose checks out, you could have a bad map sensor, or a massive boost leak. We had one at the shop a few months back that we were dynoing, and it was laggy and Smokey. Put our boost leak detector on it, and the drivers side plenum was leaking so bad, our detector would only read about 2-5 psi on the gauge with full shop air being pumped into it. Also, do you have a boost fooler?

Baro should only move as you go up or down in altitude. It’s not sensitive enough to pick up weather changes, but here in Phoenix, we read about 13.7-13.8 psi.


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Map should move based on however much boost you’re making. And I think that’s what the map obd pid is on your list. It would actually be boost. So at 10 psi of boost, map should read around 24.8, and the map that reads 0 should be 10. If your map isn’t moving, check the hose for attachment to either the sensor or the plenum. Also check it for a restriction by blowing thru it. If the hose checks out, you could have a bad map sensor, or a massive boost leak. We had one at the shop a few months back that we were dynoing, and it was laggy and Smokey. Put our boost leak detector on it, and the drivers side plenum was leaking so bad, our detector would only read about 2-5 psi on the gauge with full shop air being pumped into it. Also, do you have a boost fooler?

Baro should only move as you go up or down in altitude. It’s not sensitive enough to pick up weather changes, but here in Phoenix, we read about 13.7-13.8 psi.


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Thank you for the in depth response. I ran the truck today to pull the torque converter to send out to precision for a rebuild and it ran good doesnt seem like im losing any boost. I will double check the map sensor and see if thats good when i get a chance! thanks!
 

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