Truck Possessed?

doo dah · Dec 5, 2016

CATDiezel said:
Battery testing is rather simple. If they load test then so be it. Anything above 12.6v is considered good.

This sounds like a noise issue from either a failed light or diode causing meniscus return voltage and one of the modules is detecting it as a signal input.

Please disconnect all accessory lights and start from there. Anything lighting not stock.

A certain frequency from any transformer on one of the light bars. Or even LED lights could easily cause this. Ever powered up a very high frequency and watted radio near sensitive equipment. It's the same ordeal. It's noise generated on a communications path and it causes the silicone chip to loose it's mind.

The same can also be from an accessory with a transformer without a shielded ground to carry or direct noise away.

If a power wire is "dirty" or u shielded and also sitting next to mod bus or can comms it can inherently put generated false signal on the line.

Anything with a transforming generator should have a diode sized properly to stop these issues. In the case of light bars it should be a zener diode if a regular diode proves insufficient. Either that or a isolated clean 24v power supply along with a shield ground. (Terminate the shield on one end only or your simply adding a ground that is not capable of carrying stray noise and loose voltage)

I could be wrong but you don't have either a battery or connection problem.

You have a module that is unhappy. Just try unplugging all aftermarket lighting first and see. However if a light caused this issue it is highly possible to fry the new module. Remember it's just a delicate silicone chip and the wrong frequency can nuke it... although it's protected by a series of diodes and resistors. It happens all the time. Especially if the noise is incoming and not outgoing.

You are the man. Disconnected both lights and everything worked again. One of the lights has a crack in the face so must have gotten moisture in it. Anyways thank you for the direction.

CATDiezel · Dec 5, 2016

doo dah said:
You are the man. Disconnected both lights and everything worked again. One of the lights has a crack in the face so must have gotten moisture in it. Anyways thank you for the direction.

Awesome. Which light exactly was it that was cracked. Light bar or head/tail light?

doo dah · Dec 5, 2016

It was the lower lightbar. I have 2 on my front end replacement, one works fine and the cracked one makes the system go kookoo. I figure with all the rain moisture maybe got inside and caused the issue. Funny how looking back once you know the problem seems so easy to point out. Headlights are working just fine.

6.7 Powerstroker · Dec 5, 2016

I'm having issues with my lights also. When you disconnected the bad light did it immediately fix the issue?

JRLott · Dec 5, 2016

Good friggin deal! Glad it was something simple. Even a blind cat finds an acorn now and then...or is that supposed to be a hog? Oh well, all joking aside dang good insight CAT!

doo dah · Dec 5, 2016

6.7 Powerstroker said:
I'm having issues with my lights also. When you disconnected the bad light did it immediately fix the issue?

Yes. I disconnected both light bars and truck was fine, hooked up the good one and truck still ran fine. process of elimination.

doo dah · Dec 5, 2016

JRLott said:
Good friggin deal! Glad it was something simple. Even a blind cat finds an acorn now and then...or is that supposed to be a hog? Oh well, all joking aside dang good insight CAT!

I need it! My son's truck is at the dealer and may need its 2nd transmission in a year. Nissan Titan.......nobody repairs them and remans are hard to find because of the expense and difficulty.

8WR_ZJ · Dec 6, 2016

doo dah said:
I need it! My son's truck is at the dealer and may need its 2nd transmission in a year. Nissan Titan.......nobody repairs them and remans are hard to find because of the expense and difficulty.

I might have an extra. is his 2wd or 4wd? what year? I bought two truck for my rock crawler project. Both truck have under 75k miles.

doo dah · Dec 6, 2016

8WR_ZJ said:
I might have an extra. is his 2wd or 4wd? what year? I bought two truck for my rock crawler project. Both truck have under 75k miles.

2007 4x4. Let me know, truck is at Nissan dealer in College Station TX

8WR_ZJ · Dec 6, 2016

Well that stinks. I have a 09 buts a 2wd. I dont know if you can change out the mainshaft and tail housing and make a 4wd out of this 2wd one i have. Let me do some searching.

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doo dah · Dec 9, 2016

We are putting a new transmission in it with 5yr unlimited mileage warranty. May still sell it, have an opportunity to get a babied 2013 250 Lariat for cheap so may give my son my 350 and buy the new 250.

On my way to KC I used my second light bar for the desolate areas in TX and the wipers turned on by themselves got 1/2 way up the windshield and quit, headlight went out too..........disconnected the bar and all was fine but now wondering if its possible both bars are bad? Or could there be something in upfitter switches or headlight switch?

CATDiezel · Dec 10, 2016

It's very possible it is the way the power wire is routed. Those light bars can emit "noise" because of the transformer in them. Any back feeding will cause issues just as you described.

You may need to run a shielded ground wiring from the up fitters to the light bars. Just remeber one very important thing without going into much detail. The shielded ground must only be terminated at one end and the other left loose or capped off. Do not connect both ends otherwise the shielded ground will not work.

I'm not very familiar on how wiring is for a UPFITTER. I have them in all my trucks yet have never used a single one.

Can you elaborate on how you wired the lights? Maybe I can help with a better understanding of how they are wired up.

You need to purchase a 2 wire with shield sleeved cable to run.

Truthfully I'm surprised we haven't seen more issues with people running light bars.

8WR_ZJ · Dec 10, 2016

Sorry never got back to you. 2wd to 4wd swap requires complete disassembly and transfer of parts to the new case. Idk about but i dont feel comfortable doing that.

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gnxtc2 · Dec 10, 2016

CATDiezel said:
It's very possible it is the way the power wire is routed. Those light bars can emit "noise" because of the transformer in them. Any back feeding will cause issues just as you described.

You may need to run a shielded ground wiring from the up fitters to the light bars. Just remeber one very important thing without going into much detail. The shielded ground must only be terminated at one end and the other left loose or capped off. Do not connect both ends otherwise the shielded ground will not work.

I'm not very familiar on how wiring is for a UPFITTER. I have them in all my trucks yet have never used a single one.

Can you elaborate on how you wired the lights? Maybe I can help with a better understanding of how they are wired up.

You need to purchase a 2 wire with shield sleeved cable to run.

Truthfully I'm surprised we haven't seen more issues with people running light bars.

It is.....I installed rear LED fog lights for backing up on my OBS. Everytime I turn them on, I get static over the radio.

Same lights on my 2016, no noise.

Billy T.
[email protected]

CATDiezel · Dec 10, 2016

Try changing the ground location for the light.

It is the light bar circuit board emitting a high frequency.

These light bars are really by design a huge problem for vehicles with so many sensitive electronics and especially now that Everthing is wifi or Bluetooth capable.

They do sell filters for these types of problems but they may not eliminate all your issues.

I'm going to bet something is not grounded or wired properly on your end.

You have a very interesting problem.

What brand of light bar?

doo dah · Dec 11, 2016

Sorry I haven't replied, didn't get back home until late last night. Drove straight through from KC to San Antonio. One of the light bars is wired with shielded wires that were formally used to operate a transfer pump. I just cut the length to fit the location of the light bar. The other one is regular 2 wire in a corrugated conduit, not shielded. Both have the + connected to the wire from the upfitter switch and both - are grounded on the front fender. I am going to test the lights directly off of a spare battery in the garage and see if they work. If they do I will buy switch kits for the lights and run them separate from the trucks wiring but still seems weird it would just start happening after they have been on for over a year and used regularly. The brand of the lights is Opt7; I would consider them one of the better brands.

doo dah · Dec 11, 2016

8WR_ZJ said:
Sorry never got back to you. 2wd to 4wd swap requires complete disassembly and transfer of parts to the new case. Idk about but i dont feel comfortable doing that.

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No worries. Everyone I talked to had nothing but bad things to say about the Nisan transmission once it is broken open. Seems reman parts just don't work so when we got 5 yr unlimited mileage we jumped on it. My attorney is going to deal with Nissan and see if we can get some $ for out troubles. I want to get rid of it but my son loves the truck now that it is lifted and he has 20x12 -44 Fuels on it.

CATDiezel · Dec 11, 2016

doo dah said:
Sorry I haven't replied, didn't get back home until late last night. Drove straight through from KC to San Antonio. One of the light bars is wired with shielded wires that were formally used to operate a transfer pump. I just cut the length to fit the location of the light bar. The other one is regular 2 wire in a corrugated conduit, not shielded. Both have the + connected to the wire from the upfitter switch and both - are grounded on the front fender. I am going to test the lights directly off of a spare battery in the garage and see if they work. If they do I will buy switch kits for the lights and run them separate from the trucks wiring but still seems weird it would just start happening after they have been on for over a year and used regularly. The brand of the lights is Opt7; I would consider them one of the better brands.

quick test.

Move the ground directly to the battery, as batteries act like huge filters when in a direct completed circuit. IF you haven't killed any modules yet I doubt you will... worth a shot. And if it still does then move both positive and negative to battery on truck and try again.