Tuner Less Noticable with a Manual or Just Not Working Right - PHP Hydra

Freerider15

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Ok, so I FINALLY was able to get some time to run the truck.

I replaced the ICP with one from dieselorings.com, so I can now fully rule that out.

Here are the numbers:

1.) Stock Setting on the Hydra:

screenshot2_zps8130eb76.png


2.) 80DD Setting on the Hydra

screenshot5_zps1b787235.png


I do notice the ICP number for the HPOP being about 300psi higher on the 80DD setting. Maybe my butt dyno just sucks?

Idle does seem to be a little low on both of them, I though I should see around 550-650?

I did manage to blow the driver's side cooler boot off while in 5th gear going from 70-80mph with it floored.

There is one thing I have noticed that has me somewhat concerned. I did the CCV mod, routing it over the brake booster, down the side, to a ~12" x 3" canister with some "fluffed" stainless steel wool, back out and routed around the gas tank and dumped by the rear spare with a filter connected.

Well, I'm getting oil coming out all the way down there.

20141101_143018_zps96db9064.png


You can't see it the greatest in this photo, but it is actually bubbling where all that oil sits. That seems like a severe amount of blow-by.

So, what do the experts think!?
 

golfer

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those 'peak' ICP values don't really tell anyone much...

ie, if you're IN the pedal hard...and then SHIFT...you'll spike the ICP pressure.

you need to monitor what the SUSTAINED ICP is able to hold during a long run from 60-90mph in your hottest tune...(that tune will command the longest injector duration, and most likely the highest ICP value)..
 

ja_cain

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those 'peak' ICP values don't really tell anyone much...

ie, if you're IN the pedal hard...and then SHIFT...you'll spike the ICP pressure.

you need to monitor what the SUSTAINED ICP is able to hold during a long run from 60-90mph in your hottest tune...(that tune will command the longest injector duration, and most likely the highest ICP value)..

In other words you need to datalog it. I eluded to this earlier on in the thread. I guess the best way to set it up would be ICP vs. RPM. Does that sound right golfer? I've been wondering the best way to data log this too.
 

dsberman94

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Should be smoking pretty decent in the hot tune on a manual trans when you get on it in a high gear too. The generic tunes are clean, but they're still not 100% custom or 100% clean.
 

lincolnlocker

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those 'peak' ICP values don't really tell anyone much...

ie, if you're IN the pedal hard...and then SHIFT...you'll spike the ICP pressure.

you need to monitor what the SUSTAINED ICP is able to hold during a long run from 60-90mph in your hottest tune...(that tune will command the longest injector duration, and most likely the highest ICP value)..

good point sir... i guess i assumed that there wasnt any shifting going on...
 

Freerider15

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parameters look normal on a stock inj truck.. so you should feel something... is your clutch slipping?

Clutch doesn't feel like it's slipping at all as far as I can tell.

Try the 140hp setting. If it doesn't throw some smoke off the bottom and blow the tires off you might have the wrong strategy loaded in the hydra.

80DD is the hottest I've tried, but I can try higher.

those 'peak' ICP values don't really tell anyone much...

ie, if you're IN the pedal hard...and then SHIFT...you'll spike the ICP pressure.

you need to monitor what the SUSTAINED ICP is able to hold during a long run from 60-90mph in your hottest tune...(that tune will command the longest injector duration, and most likely the highest ICP value)..

I completely agree, I just wanted to post number in case someone saw something that made them go "hmmmmm" that I would not be aware of. My plan is to try and do some mapping of ICP vs. time, ICP vs. INJpw, ICP vs. RPM, etc.

Anything else you would recommend?

In other words you need to datalog it. I eluded to this earlier on in the thread. I guess the best way to set it up would be ICP vs. RPM. Does that sound right golfer? I've been wondering the best way to data log this too.

That is along the lines of what I was originally thinking as well.

Should be smoking pretty decent in the hot tune on a manual trans when you get on it in a high gear too. The generic tunes are clean, but they're still not 100% custom or 100% clean.

It smokes some, but it doesn't DUMP it by any means.

My WOT tests have been the on ramp getting onto the highway.

Other thoughts:

As far as exhaust leaks, there's no noticeable soot around the up-pipes.

As far as a boost leak, I can do some searching to see where/how to find if I have one.

Wastegate...not sure on that one. Anyone got any pointers on how to check that one out? I'll do some searching (I've somewhat read up on it before but drawing a blank right now).

A question: Should I hear any difference (timing, injectors, etc.) when switching from one mode to another (i.e. stock to 80DD)? I sat with it in the driveway and kept it at about 1700-2000rpms and switched between modes (stock, 80DD, 100DD) and there is no noticeable change in sound.

- Justin
 

mandkole

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OP, with all of your data snapshots, there is virtually no difference in max PW command between the stock and 80DD. There was also little diff in the (MAP) as well. To me, that explains the lack of difference in performance. The DD file is substantially stronger than a 'stock' file and all of the fueling data should show it.

The one side of the chip had gotten some rough treatment, but I cant see that being the issue.
 

sniper_101

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He already had it re-tinned.

My question, with the MAP/EBP values, the lowest value/offset should be subtracted from the max (peak) numbers... right? If that's the case, in the 80HP tune:
- EBP is showing, max 44.2 - 12.2 = 32.0(PSI) EBP with the wastegate unplugged
- MAP showing 32.8 - 12.0 = 20.8(PSI) MAP

"Stock":
EBP 37.6 - 12.2 = 25.4(PSI) EBP
MAP 30.5 - 12.1 = 18.4(PSI) MAP

If this is correct(?), shouldn't the 80HP tune make more than 21lbs boost? Not knowing the efficiency of the stock turbo, I'm not sure what the extra 7psi of EBP/drive should translate to for boost. Boost leak?
 
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lincolnlocker

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oh and prolly should get the little filter off the ccv. if its bubbling there, it means its building pressure... not that it will help your power issue but it should be free flowing right there.

live life full throttle
 

Freerider15

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didnt i say to switch tunes while driving under a slight load before? wont notice it unless you are moving...

live life full throttle

Yeah, figured I'd just ask if there was supposed to be otherwise.

OP, with all of your data snapshots, there is virtually no difference in max PW command between the stock and 80DD. There was also little diff in the (MAP) as well. To me, that explains the lack of difference in performance. The DD file is substantially stronger than a 'stock' file and all of the fueling data should show it.

The one side of the chip had gotten some rough treatment, but I cant see that being the issue.

The PCM was sent to PHP, along with the Hydra, and re-tinned.

Not sure I'm following you on the other part?

id still have it re-tined.. i had similar issues and my pcm wasn't taking the changes from tune updates.

live life full throttle

See above :thumbsup:

oh and prolly should get the little filter off the ccv. if its bubbling there, it means its building pressure... not that it will help your power issue but it should be free flowing right there.

live life full throttle

It's coming off, and going to have the tube just drop into another catch can. I did the oil cap test and it hovered like it should over the oil tube.

has a datalog been run with no chip installed?

Not yet.

I just figured out how to do actual data logging with the Torque Pro App (what I actually wanted to do all along). I've got all the same PID's selected, so now we should be able to see exactly how they all interact...which should hopefully in turn maybe tell you, to tell me, where the issue may lie :thumbup:

I really do appreciate all the help, hopefully with minds together the issue will present itself.
 

jngreen

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Just run the damn thing in a big tune already if you are still unsure that the hydra is working. If the big tune works, then the smaller ones will too. It's entirely possible that you have a mild 80 hp tune with stock like driveability.
 

Freerider15

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Just run the damn thing in a big tune already if you are still unsure that the hydra is working. If the big tune works, then the smaller ones will too. It's entirely possible that you have a mild 80 hp tune with stock like driveability.

OR...I could do proper diagnostics to figure out if my truck has an issue in a certain area before driving around in a modded tune and thus ***kering things up due to not running with a 100% healthy engine :thumbsup:
 

dsberman94

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My truck is nowhere near in 100% condition. I daily drive it on a gearhead all-out performance tune. Before that it lived in the hydra generic 120hp race tune. Even with modded injectors and a 38r, I still ran it in the PHP generic tune. Put the thing in the high tune and punch it and you'll know if it's working or not.
 

jngreen

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OR...I could do proper diagnostics to figure out if my truck has an issue in a certain area before driving around in a modded tune and thus ***kering things up due to not running with a 100% healthy engine :thumbsup:

I appreciate you not wanting to harm your engine, but you are way overthinking this whole thing. You have spent more time and money chasing problems that you likely don't have. Flip the switch to a big tune and play around for a bit. You aren't going to hurt anything.
 

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