Up Pipe options

TXlineman83

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Yeah. Idk about all the vane talk and MCC. I have my tunes from gearhead automotive on my SCT. If I pull the can off I'm gonna go ahead and throw ported Intake and upgrade my Afe in prep of turbos down the road.


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4tonGT40

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Thanks. Yeah my company has a 3 million dollar shop. Probably 20 million dollars in equipment and can't afford a 3000 dollar 2 post lift. WTH


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LOL... Well maybe if a work truck if any mysteriously has transmission issues it will force them to buy one..


Darkhorse Diesel Performance
101 Northgate Industrial Dr
Ball Ground, GA 30107
www.darkhorsedieselperformance.com
678-454-2277
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B585Ford

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Yeah. Idk about all the vane talk and MCC. I have my tunes from gearhead automotive on my SCT. If I pull the can off I'm gonna go ahead and throw ported Intake and upgrade my Afe in prep of turbos down the road.


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My hearing aint the best, but I did all the mods you speak of at the same time (with the 71).
 

Cknox121

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I haz 2 post lift, but no ac machine lol. Shop will collect and refill for 45 bucks though.

Maybe ford will put them on if they decide to pull cab 😁


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powerstroked08

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Here you go if you want to do manifolds cab on.
Manifolds
First off if your doing a 6.0 manifold upgrade i would highly recommend having your A/C system pumped out and buy new bolts for the manifolds since the old ones are about 1/2" too long. And another thing to do is match the gaskets to the manifolds with a dremmel or something similar.
Ok first i removed the down pipe and then the up pipes and egr down pipe. now is where things got fun. Since i was doing the manifolds and studs i wanted to make sure i was going to do it in a way that had the easiest access for both things i was doing so to do the manifolds I’m not saying all of the following steps are absolutely necessary but i did find it made it easier to see/do. Now to get to the driver side manifold i went and removed the driver side inner fender(8mm and a 6mm bolts), the battery tray and coolant reservoir (13mm) (i disconnected both batteries and drained all the coolant) then disconnected the radiator hose, the lower hose from the reservoir, and the small coolant hose on the front of the reservoir. Once that was out of the way i unscrewed the back pressure line and then removed the manifold (10mm). Now for the passenger side manifold i again removed the inner fender(8mm and 6mm) now i took a 3/8 ratchet and a cheater bar to slack the alternator belt and then slid an Allen wrench into the tensioner slot to hold it slacked, then i removed the alternator (13mm). Next thing i did and i don’t know if there is any way around it, but i removed the 2 A/C lines from the compressor and the one upper stud from the compressor. Once that is out of the way i unbolted the heat shield and then the manifold, now its really tight for some of the bolts but i found that a 3/8 air ratchet was really helpful and if you had a 1/4 drive air ratchet you would probably be better off. Now some of the bolts are still hard to get at but a good 12 point wrench is good enough to get the front bottom ones.
 

DWhite

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I have the BD up pipe and mani kit that Mike at No Limit managed to get for me a few months back.
 

BigPSD

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Anyone try the BD manifolds and up pipes?

I know they have been on back order until sometime this week. I was gonna go with them but needed the truck on the road.

Went with the Flo Pro up pipes without the EGR provision. Had to drill and weld in a 1/4" FNPT SS Bung on the drivers up pipe for the EBP fitting cause they forgot on their first version of these... I'll report back on how they're...
 

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