You gotta be kidding...

Big Angry Hillbilly · May 4, 2013

The recommended place is the small plug on the front of the secondary fuel filter.

You will either need a straight thread o-ring fitting or a banjo fitting, bolt and two copper washers to seal an adapter to it.

On the 6.0, fuel pressure if not tested with the proper tool that adds a calibrated leak to the gauge, needs to be tested at wide open throttle. Do it safely!

06Mud_Slut · May 5, 2013

So I just checked the FICM Voltage and it read between 48v-49v both with the key in the ON position and while cranking. Now it won't even turn over, so I'm leaning more towards the HPOP area, not necessarily the pump itself but something in that vicinity. Do you guys think I should crack a fuel line and check pressure that way?

Big Angry Hillbilly · May 5, 2013

It won't crank now?

06Mud_Slut · May 5, 2013

Cranks but won't turn over anymore. Before it would start then die, now it's not starting at all. But I haven't touched it in a day or two.

Mdub707 · May 6, 2013

Turning over = cranking??? I'm confused, if you hit the key the engine spins over right? That's what we mean by cranking. It's just not firing correct?

Really need to hook this to a scanner of some sort to monitor everything.

BAH, same injectors still in there... other than some obnoxious stiction. Not like 6.0 injectors are notorious for lasting long. Not sure how much faith I have in low fuel pressure killing injectors. I know it's common thought, and I do abide by watching fuel pressure religiously now, but still not completely convinced.

You say low fuel pressure is an injector killer, but without getting too far off topic here... you don't seem to mind measuring fuel pressure at the fuel bowl either, which tyipcally shows fuel pressure as "being good" but when I measure behind the heads it falls way below Ford's spec... thoughts on that?

06Mud_Slut · May 6, 2013

Yeah sorry it was firing before, now it isn't and FICM is good... i'm gonna try and get to the screen on the HPOP and see if it's dented.

Cutting-Edge Diesel · May 6, 2013

Did you ever varify that it has low pressure oil pressure?

Starting and dieing then not starting at all is what a blown up lpop will do. Have had this happen a few to many times on the ranger :doh:

Mdub707 · May 6, 2013

Cutting-Edge Diesel said:
Did you ever varify that it has low pressure oil pressure?

Starting and dieing then not starting at all is what a blown up lpop will do. Have had this happen a few to many times on the ranger :doh:

Good point. Is the gauge on the dash coming up when you're cranking? Make sure your batteries have a good charge too. I think it's around 9V when the PCM shuts off and wont allow a start.

Are you getting any smoke out of the tail pipe when cranking?

Big Angry Hillbilly · May 6, 2013

I will pm you, don't need to muck up someone else's thread.

Big Angry Hillbilly · May 6, 2013

As for verifying low oil, pull the filter and hold the check valve down with a screw driver and crank the engine with the starter jump wire at the RH battery.

The housing should fill with oil pretty quickly. I think the accepted time is less than 10 seconds but a good low pressure system will likely fill it in around 5 or so.

Hope this helps.

We need to monitor ICP, SYNC, FICMSYNC, and a couple other things.

Also remember there needs to be a minimum cranking speed of 100rpm and minimum system voltage of 8v (edit, had wrong voltage) for the modules to light the engine up, and remember if the batteries are weak and you're laying the starter to it as well, system voltage can drop off in a HURRY.

Big Angry Hillbilly · May 6, 2013

Didn't see your post MDUB about the system voltage, lol!

And it is 8v. I just looked at the sheet.

Big Angry Hillbilly · May 6, 2013

This is from the hard start no start diagnostic sheet.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367886083.579246.jpg

06Mud_Slut · May 6, 2013

I'm gonna see tomorrow if there is a shop that will let me use the scan tool for free... I'm trying to avoid Ford right now. I'll pull the filter as well and do that check, I'm just a little limited with the tools I have off-hand. It's just frustrating not knowing what the problems is so I can start ordering the part(s) seeing as it's my only mode of transportation. :fustrate:

Mdub707 · May 7, 2013

Big Angry Hillbilly said:
Didn't see your post MDUB about the system voltage, lol!

And it is 8v. I just looked at the sheet.

Big Angry Hillbilly said:
This is from the hard start no start diagnostic sheet.

View attachment 16877

Awesome, thanks for the info! Always had heard 9 but never found the information to back it up. Good to know.:clapping:

06Mud_Slut · May 7, 2013

Ok, I'm getting my truck towed to a shop tomorrow and putting a Scan tool on it. So it should read the same as that attachment Hillbilly posted? And if the LPOP or HPOP are bad what numbers would that affect?

06Mud_Slut · May 15, 2013

Well, and update on the truck... It'll be fixed tomorrow. The HPOP housing was leaking. It wasn't making enough pressure to get to the injectors or something so got it replaced. $170 part.

webb06 · May 15, 2013

06Mud_Slut said:
Well, and update on the truck... It'll be fixed tomorrow. The HPOP housing was leaking. It wasn't making enough pressure to get to the injectors or something so got it replaced. $170 part.

What year is the truck? Never heard of this happening. So the hpop housing? Is that the cast piece that covers the hpop? That the ipr screws in to?