Cab Removal Directions (ZMBYKLR)

[imelmo]

Well, I'm finally pulling the cab off the ZMBYKLR truck to do headstuds.

It's a holiday here for Mardis Gras so I figured it's a great time to do it since I have all day to get the cab off.

I figured I'd do a little bit then come and post what I did to:

1) make sure I didn't miss anything. LOL

2) if it's good enough, make it a sticky for anyone doing studs

My truck is an '03 F250 (02/03 build date) with an auto trans and a manual transfer case, so there may be some diffrences in what I have to do compared to another truck.

My truck is also a regular cab short bed but I don't believe that will have an effect on anything. I already checked to make sure my lift will grab the cab on it (being a regular cab) and it will. We got the extra wide lift.

So here goes. Feel free to add anything that I forget/miss or add anything that may be different for a different year or configuration.


HERE'S A LINK TO ALL THE PICS SINCE THEY WERE MOVED IN PHOTOBUCKET AND DON'T SHOW IN THE THREAD ANYMORE: http://s11.photobucket.com/user/imelmo/library/2003 6 Liter Head Removal?sort=3&page=1




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[imelmo]

First, I ordered a headgasket kit from Dennis at Strictly Diesel. It's the easiest route imo as it comes with everything you need and has a lot of options as well.

I got the kit with the ARP's, factory ford head gaskets, new oil cooler, all other needed gaskets, and also opted to get the regulated return system.

I already have a system for deleting the egr so I didn't need that.

I also had my ac system drained. I know some people work around that but I elected to go ahead and drain it.

Next, I got 'er up on the lift.

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[imelmo]

I THINK LOL I got everything I need to on the bottom. These are the only tools I needed to get the bottom:

19mm ratchet wrench
13mm ratchet wrench
10mm ratchet wrench
8mm ratchet wrench

channel locks

flat head screwdriver

straight pic

push pin puller

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[imelmo]

First thing I did under there was open the petcock on the radiator to let the coolant start coming out while I got everything together.

I then used the channel locks to slide back the lower radiator hose clamp, then removed the loser radiator hose from the radiator. Just so you know, even though it drained at the petcock for a while, a lot of coolant is still going to come out of the hose. I'm guessing I should've taken the cap off the coolant reservoir to help it drain before I lifted it.

I then removed the three cooler lines from the bottom of the radiator. I used the channel lock to hold the large fitting in place on the radiator while I used the 19mm wrench to remove the line from it.

I also removed the two small lines going to the power steering cooler using channel locks.

I then used a straight pick to undo the plastic clips that hold the lines in place.

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[imelmo]

After that, I went ahead and drained the oil.

While the oil was draining, I unplugged the front abs sensors where they attach at the wheel well. There is one on each side.

I then undid the small ground strap that's located on the passenger side between the frame and cab near the front of the passenger side door. It takes an 8mm wrench.

Next I undid the white clip on the trans shifter. I used the flathead srewdriver to pry it out slightly and then push the white clip up. After it slides up you can pull it off the stud ball.

After that I used the 13mm wrench to undo the two bolts that hold the shifter bracket on. I also used the "push pin puller" to remove the shifter cable bracket from a trans wire it was attached to.

My truck has a manual transfer case so the next thing I did was take off the two bolts that hold the shifter (the part going into the cab) using a 10mm wrench. I believe an electronic shift transfer case will just need to unplug the shift motor but I'm not sure.

If you have gauges, also make sure and remove the egt sensor and trans temp sender wire.

There is also an electrical connector on the driver's side between the cab and frame rail near the back of the door. You can see where it comes out of the back and runs toward the rear. Disconnect it.

I've looked everything over carefully and am 90% sure I got everything on the bottom that I need to.

I will add that the e-brake cable also has to be undone and is a real pita, but mine isn't connected so I didn't have to fool with that. Here's some suggestions for disconnecting the e-brake though:

On the e-brake cable, I pull all the slack out and clamp the line. Then I will use a pair of vise grips and clamp the connector to a metal lip right under the drivers door. Take a flat blade screwdriver and separate the connector as much as possible. Then from the back side I will use a hammer and the screwdriver to push the cable out of the connector. Usually one or two hits and it will come out. This is just they way I do it. I'm sure everyone has their own way.

we always just cut them, and get a quick connect from napa or fishers auto or something. it's a ball, and bracket kinda thing.


Sent looking at my blown up 6.4

for the e brake what i do is first set the parking brake, then i take a pair of vise grips and clamp it to the cable right next to the body mount, then release the parking brake which gives you almost enough slack. then take some long needle nose pliers and right where the cable connects to the frame pull it slightly towards the disconnect bracket. you should have plenty of cable after that to get the bracket off. the kicker here is to leave the vise grips on there until you reconnect it. had someone take them off once and i literally about killed them! also on the later radiators you need a trans line disconnect tool because if you dont the cooler inside the radiator can fall if the nuts on the outside arent holding it up. learned that one the hard way

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[imelmo]

On my way out now to lower it down and start on the topside.

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[imelmo]

Alright, just about done with the engine bay I believe other than electrical connections and cab mounts.

When I lowered the truck to the ground I put wheel choks in front and behind a tire so it doesn't roll around any after I lift the cab off.

First thing I did was disconnect and remove both batteries. I disconnected the cable that connects both batteries also and laid it over the engine. I also removed the front flap and the radiator with outer shroud. That probably wasn't necessary but I wanted to be able to see everything better to make sure I don't miss anything. An 8mm wrench or socket will cover all the fasteners associated with the batteries and radiator. And channel locks to remove the upper radiator hose. And the push pin puller for the flap.

After that I removed my air intake. I have an AFE on my truck. Removing the air intake system is pretty simple so I won't go into all the details of that. If you have an AFE like mine you'll need a 13mm socket and wrench, a 10mm socket, and a flat head screwdriver.

After that, I removed the intercooler pipes using an 11mm deep well socket.

Once all of this is removed you can see fairly clearly what is left.

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[imelmo]

Starting on the passenger side (the easy side), I removed the ground strap that goes from the back of the head to the upper firewall. It's an 8mm.

I also removed another ground using an 8mm that comes off the negative battery cable to the fender.

Next I disconnected the black rubber hose from the egr. It goes from the egr to the black mounting bracket near the ac system.

Next I unplugged another connector (starter relay wire I believe). It's the only one I saw on that side. It has a single post in it. You just squeeze the connecter and it comes out.

Then I used a 13mm socket and removed the mounting bolt for the ac line (the system had already been vaccuumed). Use caution here as even though I had my system drained already it still had a little pressure and shot out some freon. I also removed the top line only (there are two) that runs to the condenser. It was 13mm also.

Next I removed the heater hose that runs next to the alternator to the firewall.

I believe that was it for the passenger side.

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[imelmo]

Now the "tough" side; the driver's side.

First thing I addressed was the brake lines. I elected to just remove the 3 brake lines from the unit loacted at the front of the fender well, which means I will have to bleed them when it goes back together although not very much came out. These took a 9/16 wrench. A 14mm would go on but was really tight to get on there and a 15mm was too big.

Next I removed the coolant reservoir. Just disconnect the two small hoses up top and the large one on the bottom, then remove the two mounting screws using an 8mm.

On that large hose that was on the bottom of the reservoir, you'll see another hose that y's off to the firewall. Disconnect it using the channel locks.

Then I used a 13mm socket to remove steering shaft locking bolt. You'll have to slide the plastic cover that's on it up to access it. Once you remove the bolt just slide the steering shaft up.

Next it gets a little messy. In hindsight, I would like to have used a small pump to empty the power steering reservoir but since I didn't have one I just undid the two lines that go to the pump and let it drain.

I then undid the two hydraulic hoses that come off the rear (firewall side) of the master cylinder. I used channel locks to hold the big fitting in place and a 19mm to turn the small fitting.

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[imelmo]

Last should be the electrical connections.

First one I undid was the center one on the pcm located near the front of the fender. I just folded that line over the engine. There's a beige colored latch on each one that you just flip forward to disconnect them.

Then I undid the center connector from the pcm.

Next was the two connectors near the firewall on the fender that are vertical to each other. They are underneath what looks like a small black relay box. One is black and one is grey. They have push tabs to push in and release. Then I folded that harness over the engine.

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[imelmo]

On my regular cab there are 6 cab bolts. The two in the engine bay are near where the radiator goes and were 18mm on my truck. You'll need a deep well.

Then there are 4 inside the cab. The front ones are under the mat/carpet on the angled part of the floorboard. Just pull the mat/carpet back and pull out the rubber access plug.

The rear ones are behind the seat just under the mat/carpet and have no access plug. You will see the bolt heads when you pull the mat/carpet back.

For whatever reason, the interior driver's side bolts are 24mm while the interior passenger side ones are 21mm. You will need a deep well or extensions for the front ones as they are recessed in the floor pan.

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[imelmo]

TA DAAA!!!

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[imelmo]

I only forgot 3 things but was able to catch them as the cab was going up.

One was an electrical connector between the frame and cab near the rear of the driver's side door. You can see where it comes out of the cab and runs to the back. Just had to disconnect that.

Then the heater hose that goes on the passenger side near the alternator to the firewall.

And I had to disconnect the lines going to the power steering cooler.

Other than those whcih I was thankfully able to catch before breaking them, it came up just fine.

GO ME!!! LOL

Big thanks to Jason (GRacing) for some tips and advice along the way! :rockon:



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[Powerstroked162]

Nice job man! Great write-up

 

[STROKIN N STYLE]

Awesome job Danny!!! Like everyone else said - Awesome write up!

Gare.... That's funny as hell! LOL

 

[Ross@Flyindiesel]

for the e brake what i do is first set the parking brake, then i take a pair of vise grips and clamp it to the cable right next to the body mount, then release the parking brake which gives you almost enough slack. then take some long needle nose pliers and right where the cable connects to the frame pull it slightly towards the disconnect bracket. you should have plenty of cable after that to get the bracket off. the kicker here is to leave the vise grips on there until you reconnect it. had someone take them off once and i literally about killed them! also on the later radiators you need a trans line disconnect tool because if you dont the cooler inside the radiator can fall if the nuts on the outside arent holding it up. learned that one the hard way

 

[Ross@Flyindiesel]

Starting on the passenger side (the easy side), I removed the ground strap that goes from the back of the head to the upper firewall. It's an 8mm.

I also removed another ground using an 8mm that comes off the negative battery cable to the fender.

Next I disconnected the black rubber hose from the egr. It goes from the egr to the black mounting bracket near the ac system.

Next I unplugged another sensor (not sure what it is). It's the only one I saw on that side though. It has a single post in it. You just squeeze the connecter and it comes out.
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this was prob the starter relay wire

 

[jdgleason]

this was prob the starter relay wire

:whs:

Steve's ebrake cable was a pain.... I just got a hold of the clamp with vice grips, and used a big screw driver to pry the clamp apart and yanked lol.

 

[Ross@Flyindiesel]

i normally dont have any trouble with my method because it give me plenty of slack to get it off and easy to put on

 

[imelmo]

this was prob the starter relay wire

Probably since it comes off the power wire.

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